ok so i blew a rear brake line then in fixing that i had to replace the 2 front calipers, Master Cylinder, Rear hard and soft brake lines, New disk to disk prop valve.
Last night i finally got it all done bleed the master and the brakes made sure there was no leaks any place it was late and i dident want to wake the neighbors so i waited till today (350 with Dual flows). finished mounting the new prop valve to the frame rail checked for any leaks there was none and started up my baby well the pedel was very firm but i had to push down like hell to get it to stop it did not sotop like 4wheel disk brakes should stop but the perel was very hard and i did not have to pump it to build up pressure.
Prop Valve: from inline tube everything is hooked up no leaks
Master Cylinder: brought one in beacuse it was leaking and they said it was for manual brakes so i got a power one. The kit came with 2 red plugs for the bleeding process but with no tubes the gui at napa said just pump the brakes till fluid comes out from the red caps <this is what he told me is this where the problem lies.
Brake calpers: did the 2 front got them from shucks never done it before but it did not feel to hard i am 90% sure i did it right
Brake Lines: First time to this as well but seem to work and no leaks there is fluid comeing out of every wheel
Brake Bleeding: I had a friend pump the brakes 3 times and hold on the third, I would open the bleeder let all the air/fluid out, close the bleeder then have them let off the pedal i did proably 5-9 sets per wheel did i do it enough times.
This is everything i know about what i have done to this thing i am somewhat new to this whole process so any help would be great. THANKS
Sounds like you still have air in the lines. Did you bench bleed the Master before installation? Start from the wheel the farthest from the master cylinder. You can buy a vacum bleeding kit from $20.00 that would let you do it by yourself and you can use it to check other leaks as well. Does your proportioning valve have an adjustment? You might want to invest in one that does.
Just thinking, did you hook up the wires on the proportioning valve?
Just asking to see if the brake warning light is ON.
If it is then the Combination valve has a pistion that slides to one side or the other to cut off flow to the damaged circuit so you can use the rest of the brake sysem that still works. If you bled the brakes and did not reset the piston then it could be cutting off one side of your brake system. That would give you a hard pedal and no braking.
If the brakes switch was hooked up you can simply open up a bleeder on one side and push on the brake until the light goes out. then close the bleeder and your done.
or what LT1CJ7 said also. Air usually gives you a mushy pedal.
1. While jeep is running i pulled off vacume hose and it sucked my finger right in.
2. I did bench bleed the Master I think I got the Master from napa and it just came with 2 red caps that fit into the outlet holes of the master. The guy at napa told me to put the caps in the holes and pump the brakes until fluid seeped out of the red caps. I did this, do i need to go and buy one of the tube kits.
3. When i took off the old prop valve the wire connection had so much dirt and grime on it i dont think it was even hooked up beacuse no brake light came on in my jeep when it blew the first time and i am geting fluid at all 4 wheels.
bench bleeding is not gettign things to seep out caps, it is those caps in the holes with hoses back into the reservoirs and pushing on the pluger until you dont' see air bubbles... I think the guy at Napa didn't tell you the whole story... the last m/c I bought at Autozone came with a little kit, it worked fine, even had diretions... they were in Spanish, but they had directions. I just had to dust off my high school Spanish to figure out what was left/right front/back.
I'm with LT1 on this one. If you got a hard pedal that does not hit the floor I don't think it is air in the line. I had a friend once whose vacuum booster had a hole in the rubber membrane inside it. He patched that hole with a bicycle inner tube repair kit and that fixed it.
so we think its my brake booster I just had my mom come over and bleed the brakes again(bless her heart) i did all 4 from farthest from the MC in. did it about 10 times per wheel got a few more air bubbles out but not many. i am going to drive it around the block right now and will report back in 10 min
I have done this with the distributor advance, my neighbor showed me. Suck on the hose some and put the tip of your tongue on it. If it holds vacuum ok. If it does not develop vacuum it has a pin hole. If it does not hold the vacuum suction on your tongue it has a slow leak.
I did not read your comment on the one way valve. Did not know the right angle plastic piece was a valve too. Is true in most cases?
If that is true what i said above will not work without using another fitting to replace the one way valve or slide something under the reed/plate to hold it open.
I guess we learn something here everday.
No one said it, and have read it, the valve for 4 disk is different than 2 disk 2 drum and 4 drum. The volumes on the 4 disk different too. Not an expert on brakes but throw that out there.