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Unread 04-28-2010, 10:00 PM   #1
Coiz
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Brake Line and Fuel Line Flaring - How To

I had a couple of different fuel lines that I needed to add flares to so I borrowed a brake and fuel line double flaring tool for the weekend. I did some searches on the JF and didn't really notice a lot of info so figured I might as well turn this into a quick How-To write up.

Here is the single/double flaring tool kit.


A nice close up of the instructions we will be following.


Here is a picture of my 5/16" fuel injection line that leads to the fuel rail, notice it is a single flare. I am going to convert it over to a double flare.


You start by taking the tubing cutter and removing the old end. Slowly work it in circles back and forth while tightening the blade. The cutter works pretty fast.


Next you want to take a file and ream out any burrs on the inside of the tube.


Find the correct sized adapter for your size of line.


You want to make sure you clamp the tubing in straight and at a depth that is the same to the shoulder on the adapter. Make sure it is clamped tight! You don't want the tubing to move in the clamp.


Insert the adapter into the end of the line but make sure you put a drop of oil on it first.


Install the press on the block, take up any slack and make sure it is centered well. This is where everything needs to be straight, centered and look good.


Slowly crank the handle until the shoulder of the adapter bottoms out on the block.


Remove the press and adapter and you have the first phase of the flare completed.


Reinstall the press. I like to give it another dab of oil.


Slowly crank it down until you feel it bottom out.


Here is how it should look in the block if all went as planned.


Picture of the finished product with my hand in it for contrast. Don't forget to clean and blow out the tubing when your done.


Hopefully this will help someone doing a search down the road.


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Unread 04-29-2010, 04:22 AM   #2
pazur
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for flaring brake line you must have expensive, precisely-made flaring tool, not the ones with celf-centering tip as you are showing. So far I tried like 5 brands, cheap and expensive, and none of them made factory-like flare. It is just too difficult to keep mushroom tip centered while tightening. and if it ends up a little bit off such flare does not seal. for fuel line (you are doing) this may work though.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 09:12 AM   #3
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Nice write-up and awesome pics, Coiz. Thanks!
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Unread 04-29-2010, 09:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazur View Post
for flaring brake line you must have expensive, precisely-made flaring tool, not the ones with celf-centering tip as you are showing.
With a axle/suspension/braking system swap I made all of the brake lines in my CJ5 six years ago using a double flare tool like above and haven't had a single problem with any of the double flares. Didn't have to re-do any of them either.

Leaks usually result from too much tube sticking out of the clamp, pushing the cone in too far when forming the double flare, or a cut that isn't square.

My double flaring tool was a $50 setup from NAPA.

Last edited by CSP; 04-29-2010 at 02:42 PM..
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Unread 04-29-2010, 10:02 AM   #5
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Nice write up.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 12:56 PM   #6
hp_lovecraft
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I just redid my brake lines using the same tool above. Rented for free at Autozone.
It was a learning experience, as I'd never had to flare a line. In the past, I'd always just replace the entire unit in one pre-flared section.

The instructions it came with were sparse, but after you have done one flare, the rest are all pretty easy.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 01:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp_lovecraft View Post
i just redid my brake lines using the same tool above. Rented for free at autozone.
It was a learning experience, as i'd never had to flare a line. In the past, i'd always just replace the entire unit in one pre-flared section.

The instructions it came with were sparse, but after you have done one flare, the rest are all pretty easy.
x2!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Unread 04-29-2010, 01:31 PM   #8
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Hey guys.. you know when you go hard line to rubber tubing.. would you put a single / double flare in the tube along with a hose clamp?

I have a few spots on the jeep where it will be a transition and I always wondered how to get that "bump" at the end of the tube. Doesn't look like a compression flare.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 01:41 PM   #9
Coiz
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That is another use of the double flare. I had a single flare on that fuel line connection in the pictures and it worked fine but it leaves a fairly sharp edge that can cut into the rubber fuel line. By converting it over to the double flare the rubber line goes on easier, there are no sharp edges to cut the rubber and it gives the hose clamp better securing force.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 03:09 PM   #10
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Nice writeup! One observation -- the tubing cutter has a reamer on it to clean up the internal burr, which is sometimes easier than using a file.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 03:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazur View Post
for flaring brake line you must have expensive, precisely-made flaring tool, not the ones with celf-centering tip as you are showing. So far I tried like 5 brands, cheap and expensive, and none of them made factory-like flare. It is just too difficult to keep mushroom tip centered while tightening. and if it ends up a little bit off such flare does not seal. for fuel line (you are doing) this may work though.
Disagree. As others have said, the double flaring tools (as shown in this write-up) work perfectly on brake lines. I did my stainless brake lines with a similar tool from Imperial.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 03:24 PM   #12
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO64CJ5 View Post
Nice writeup! One observation -- the tubing cutter has a reamer on it to clean up the internal burr, which is sometimes easier than using a file.
Good catch and thanks for the "Thumbs Up" whoever gave it to me.
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Unread 04-29-2010, 03:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Jeepish View Post
Disagree. As others have said, the double flaring tools (as shown in this write-up) work perfectly on brake lines. I did my stainless brake lines with a similar tool from Imperial.
X 2

Nice write up, good pics.


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Unread 05-03-2010, 06:15 AM   #14
pazur
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"Slowly crank the handle until the shoulder of the adapter bottoms out on the block."

In this one sentence there are major facts not mentioned. E.g.
1. All the tools I have seen the shaper tip is 2.5 mm in diameter while pipe's internal diameter is about 3 mm. This causes that the shaper is loose inside the tube.
2. Because of 1, as you are tightening, the tip is 99.99% likely to go to side, even with tiny (i.e. 10 degrees) twisting. Lisle tool (a copy of Imperial 93-fb) has even the conical tip loose, which makes impossible to keep the tool centered. cheap harbor freight unit is somewhat better but still hard to control. $200 Jonnesway (nearly identical to the one in pics) performs exactly the same as harbor freight.
3. You never know if the tip stays centered until you actually finish the bubble flare. None of the pics above shows if the flare is perfectly centered. And if it is not, leaks are more than likely.
4. If the tubing is not perfectly level above problems multiply.
5. The clamps leave a coarse area with 2 reams, by far not as pretty as on the last pic.
6. The length of pipe that protrudes over the clamp has nothing to do with the shaper not moving while tightening the tool. If you leave it slightly longer, it will create a larger flare.
7. Agree with one thing - this tool may work for single flare fuel lines, or cunifer brake lines which are softer than steel
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Unread 05-03-2010, 06:58 AM   #15
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It works better to use a cut off wheel to cut the line, and then file and flare. Using a tubing cutter work hardens the end, and makes it much harder to flare.
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