body lift vs suspension lift??? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
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body lift vs suspension lift???

I know it's probably been asked a million times, but I'm looking for input on the topic. I have a '80 CJ7 with a 1" body lift and a 4" suspension lift, and am running 33's. I am happy with the clearance I have for the most part, but honestly don't care for the stiff suspension of a 4" spring. I recently got a great deal on a "new" 2" body lift (presently on 1" body lift) and am considering an increase in BL and decrease in suspension lift to soften up the springs, or maybe even flat springs and tube fenders for more clearance.

What is the "best" school of thought for body-lift vs. suspension-lift vs. fender-clearancing when trying to get the most out of balancing ground clearance and flex with LCG?


80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
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post #2 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 05:57 PM
ZeroGravity
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I don't think it's a bad idea to step down in spring lift to get a better ride/more flexible suspension because as you increase in spring arch you loose some flexibility. Body lift is better for clearance issues when it comes to flat belly skids, motor mount lift, or anything you need space for between the frame and the body for. If it's only an inch of difference, the amount of work and cost required to install a body lift...It's usually just easier to hack up the sheet metal.

91 YJ
98 XJ
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post #3 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:01 PM
Stroudcreek
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Don't do it, get softer 4 inch springs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #4 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
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There is already a 1" lift, but some of the blocks need replacing. I'll be replacing them all with this 2" kit, but may cut 1" off those blocks first to stay same. Aside from steering rod and T-case shifter, what other clearance concerns will I create? So the body lift will be replaced regardless. Also, the fenders will eventually go tube regardless. Also, the springs will be replaced when I outboard for FW axles. Really it comes down to whether I put that 1" in springs or in BL? how much is too much BL? I've considered leaving the body at 1", going to a 2.5" YJ spring, and creating 2" more clearance in fenders... lowers my CG by ~ 1.5"... I might even be able to go flatter by pulling one leaf if I open up fenders more.

Still, if I go to stock flat YJ springs and a SOA I'll be good to go with NO BL.

Any more input?

80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
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post #5 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:38 PM
letchcore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkask View Post
There is already a 1" lift, but some of the blocks need replacing. I'll be replacing them all with this 2" kit, but may cut 1" off those blocks first to stay same. Aside from steering rod and T-case shifter, what other clearance concerns will I create? So the body lift will be replaced regardless. Also, the fenders will eventually go tube regardless. Also, the springs will be replaced when I outboard for FW axles. Really it comes down to whether I put that 1" in springs or in BL? how much is too much BL? I've considered leaving the body at 1", going to a 2.5" YJ spring, and creating 2" more clearance in fenders... lowers my CG by ~ 1.5"... I might even be able to go flatter by pulling one leaf if I open up fenders more.

Still, if I go to stock flat YJ springs and a SOA I'll be good to go with NO BL.

Any more input?
I have seen 2in body lifts work ok. Clutch linkage may need lenghtened. My favorite setup is 2.5in spings, 0.5in greasable shackles, and 1.25in body lift. If you add TJ flares you can easly stuff 36's. No TJ flares you can do 35's with bump stops. Most people forget about bump stops. You can limit some up travel and still get all the down travel. RE makes really good 4in lift spings that are not stiff.
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post #6 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:40 PM
papa355
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any body lift is too much IMO, but if you are gonna body lift, 1" is max I would do. Any more than that looks stupid, again IMO, but that's what you asked for. I hate body lifts........

1977 CJ7, 360 AMC with HEI, TH400 quadratrac, dana30, AMC20, SOA, 35" M/T MTZ
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post #7 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:41 PM
nshefbuch
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The stiff ride isn't from the 4" lift but rather the quality of the lift. You get what you pay for in suspension lifts. Spend the coin for RE or OME.

Ps- body lifts should be kept to a minimum. Anything over 1" is asking for trouble and looks ridiculous.

CJ7/SOA YJ leaf/5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #8 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:48 PM
ZeroGravity
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2" really isn't that much more than 1" and I don't see how it's asking for trouble any more so than a 1" body lift is.

91 YJ
98 XJ
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post #9 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 06:51 PM
Stroudcreek
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Man you really need better springs, 2 and 3 inch body lifts on jeeps look like hell
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post #10 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 07:01 PM
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGravity
2" really isn't that much more than 1" and I don't see how it's asking for trouble any more so than a 1" body lift is.
Then where would you stop? 3" isn't much more than 2".

The stress point of a 2" body lift is always less than that of 1". Body lifts can shift and even shear off causing the body to move a lot. Issues with steering come up and along with linkage to everything. Stability changes as your making it top heavy.

If all you do is mall crawl then I'm sure body lift will work fine. Just my opinion. Body lifts go hand and hand with shackle lifts.

CJ7/SOA YJ leaf/5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #11 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 07:16 PM
roadhog304
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I have a 2" body lift. the only place you can really tell there is a lift is on the front grill area. With my bumper/ tire carrier and rock sliders you really do not notice it at all. I really like the access that I have to stuff under the body like gas tank wiring, etc, and it also gave me more room to stuff my flowmasters up higher. would I do it over? in a heartbeat.
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post #12 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
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So maybe I should look at the SOA. It gives me flatter, flexier springs and still plenty of room for my 33's or even 35's with tube fenders. I'll be tossing the rusted out front fenders and making rear flares from scratch. Perhaps the body lift I have now is plenty... though less may cramp things like suggested above.

Just curious, how tall are stock mounts?

80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
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post #13 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 08:18 PM
jurgen24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkask View Post
Just curious, how tall are stock mounts?
About 0.7". I have the Daystar 1" lift, definitely would not want more body lift than that.
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post #14 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
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Pretty sure that's what's on here now (by PO)... and the ones I was practically given are "Performance Accessories" brand. Maybe I should just spend the cash on another Daystar 1" and replace one at a time... not too much work there.

80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
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post #15 of 19 Old 06-05-2012, 08:39 PM
jurgen24
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Just cut the new ones to fit, don't think it would be an issue to mix, especially if its done same each side.

BTW, you can get a rough ride if the spring eye mounting bolts have been done up too tight.
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