Body lift? -
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-04-2013, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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1978 CJ7 
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Location: Tazewell
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Body lift?

Ive been on google looking at body lift threads and it seems to be agreed everywhere that body lifts should be avoided. Im not new to jeeping at all and have never used a body lift. Everyone says that a 1-3" BL puts more stress on the body and the bolts than stock mounts. I can see how that would be true in an off camber situation. What if the body lift was made of metal with a flat washer top and bottom, put in place and welded to the frame. Then use factory size rubber or poly bushings with the appropiate size bolts. Wouldnt that eliminate the "stress" on everything? Just thinking outside the box!

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post #2 of 9 Old 03-04-2013, 01:46 PM
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1982 CJ7 
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Guess my first question is why would you want to do that... nevermind I know you are trying to save money so you can probably be able to put bigger tires on it...

So let me get this straight you are basically wanting to take a peice of pipe, put a big washer on the end and weld this to the frame and then put a long bolt through it and then use standard body bushings... That setup has more potential to cause more stress then just using a standard body lift because you are putting a fulcrum point on the bolt so when your body shifts it hits the side of the washer and that tends to act as a lever inducing more stress. Also you would have to make sure you have access to a lathe or someone that can do it for you on a lathe so all the parts are exactly the same and the faces of the pipes that you cut are parallell to each other so you dont cause more problems with different height spacers putting one or two in a bind and having others loose for the most part.

If you were going to do something like that you would be better off to machine a spacer out of steel that has the bolt hole embossed so you can put a standard length bolt in the hole and then weld the spacer to the frame, but then again that removes the "cost savings"

Body lifts are like SOA's there always seems to be that one guy that says hey just put a 3" body lift on and you can stuff 33's under there no problem. What he doesnt tell you is all of the extra costs involved like a extended length steering shaft that you are going to need about $225 depending on where you get them then if you have a manual transmission you need to either make or buy extensions for your shifter, same goes for your transfer case shifter.

Then you have to make all of the rest of your linkages work, you know throttle cable, clutch parts(or auto linkage) ect potential brake lines ect ect ect... So you figure all of that cost and time on top of the $67 for a nice set of energy suspension stock body bushings and whatever time and money you put into cutting or having cut the pipe and welding it on to your frame and the $439.99 price tag of a cheap lift that even comes with new shocks doesnt really seem that bad and you wont have to worry about all the extra damage you might do with the spacers....

/l ,[____],
l---L -OlllllllO-
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-04-2013, 03:23 PM
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Body lifts tend to come in 1" and 3" (oddly, 2" is very uncommon). The general consensus is that 1" is fine an 3" should be avoided.

1981 CJ8, Chevy 5.7, SM465, D300, RE 4.5, 35" BFG MTs, 20/30 4.56, Detroits, Warn 9500ti
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-04-2013, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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I already have big tires under my jeep. As I said I am not not new "jeepin". I have ran 33's on my jeep for 15 years with a 2.5" lift. Now I have a 4" lift and 35's, and I need a little more room. I made some 2" spacers a couple years ago and yes they are all the same height and square! From what Ive read (since Ive never had a body lift) they tend to move some. So I figured that since the ones I have are metal if they were welded to the frame that would eliminate some of the shifting, that dont sound to crazy to me. Oh yeah, I already have a borgenson shaft, so thats $200+ that I dont have to worry about.
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-04-2013, 11:22 PM
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My friend has a body lift and mount combination (1") that works good.I took a three inch and cut it half for a 1 1/2" lift. Yes I extended the t.c. shifter and made it so I could use the existing floor hole without modification.

From Dave G. in Muskegon
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-05-2013, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Did you cut the blocks square?? What did you do to xcase shifter, put a bend in it so it wouldnt hit the tub?
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-05-2013, 06:35 AM
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I was completely against body lifts. I bought 33's and didn't like the way they looked with the 2.5" lift. I had three options: buy new tires @ $800-$1000, buy the 4.5" RE lift @ $1200 because I told myself that would be my next lift or spend $130 on a 1" BL from Daystar and replace my stock mounts killing two birds with one stone. I am glad I went with the BL. At 1" you can hardly tell the difference and my tires are not stuffed in the wheel well.

'76 CJ7 Quadra-Trac 304 2.5" superlift 1" body lift 33" DuraTrac's
2014 Grand Cherokee Altitude
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-05-2013, 07:10 AM
Mister 4x4
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If you take some 2x3 box tubing that is 3/16 wall thickness and weld it to the stock body tabs, then bolt the stock replacement body mount bushings to it, you would have a body lift with out the extra length bolts and it would be plenty strong. If you know how to weld of course. You could also weld new body tabs onto the frame higher up. Quadratrac sells them and also ThrottledownKustoms. I bought a set for my Scrambler frame.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-05-2013, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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I had thought of that too, but you still need some kind of puck or something for the front and the back four mounts.
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