Body Alignment Trick....

[Exposed]

Well, since I started the restoration project on the Yellow Bee, I have removed and installed the body about 5 or 6 times. And before complete, will do it again several more times. I am doing all of this by myself, lifting with chain hoist from from trolley on an I beam in my garage. I find that getting up on my ladder and then getting down to check the body and frame location when lowering, is a pain. On top of that, the hole for the support cushions can move around in the process. I got to thinking about adding some line up pins. Since I replaced the head bolts on the SBF motor, I decided to modify the old head bolts and make some line up pins. They are about 1/2" diameter x 4" long or so. I cut off the top of the bolt above the threads about 1" in the smooth portion to be the line up pin. After studying the frame and body for a location on each corner, I realized the factory has already made the holes on body and frame. I know you old school Jeep guys already knew this but us new comers to the Jeep world, anyway... Outside the holes for the body bushings, there are 1/2" holes already in place. The head bolts work really better than buying a 1/2" bolt since the smooth portion is slightly smaller diameter (7/16"). It makes lining up really easy since it gives a little play. So I took the threaded portion of the bolt and put in the drill press (not to tight) and used an angle grinder while turning to get a nice round taper on the end. Then install one on each corner of the frame with nut on top and bottom. Now when I lower the body, once on the pins, it is perfectly aligned on the frame where it needs to be when the weight of the body is put on the frame..... Best of all, they are not in the way of anything so can stay permanent...
Here is some shots...

[keith460]

That's an excellent idea ans can use that when the time comes for fitting the Repli-Tub to the frame. I'll have to make some bolts on a lathe as I don't have any spare head bolts laying around. I like it!

[Mike Romain]

Nice idea.

Oh, you know your body bushings are missing their metal core piece right? They don't last long without it...

[Exposed]

I just put 4 (one on each corner) for fitting stuff like the clutch linkage I am working on now... But your question, these are new from Morris and have a brass sleeve (covered with rubber on top) on the bottom that the rubber bottom cushion goes over... There is not another sleeve is there??? When I pulled the body the first time, there was 7/16" bolt, washer, bottom rubber bushing and top rubber with a sleeve...

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Exposed

I just put 4 (one on each corner) for fitting stuff like the clutch linkage I am working on now... But your question, these are new from Morris and have a brass sleeve (covered with rubber on top) on the bottom that the rubber bottom cushion goes over... There is not another sleeve is there??? When I pulled the body the first time, there was 7/16" bolt, washer, bottom rubber bushing and top rubber with a sleeve...

Yes, there are galvanized cores that have a washer on one side and need to be cut for length so the bottom washer compresses to them so your mounts don't get overcompressed and blow out.

I had a set like yours and didn't know about the cores and mine almost all failed when I opened it up 8 years later. I had to buy a new set for this new frame I just put in.

Here is a link to the complete set I got:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/product_search.php?kw=55008+00&submit=Go

[Rollbar]

I bought a Daystar set and will be installing it on Saturday. Hopefully I won't have a problem. Mike, do U know of anything/problems w/the D-Star like some of the others?

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Rollbar

I bought a Daystar set and will be installing it on Saturday. Hopefully I won't have a problem. Mike, do U know of anything/problems w/the D-Star like some of the others?

That is the set that just blew out on mine, but I didn't know about the missing core pieces so just had the pucks and their tube on there.

My originals were just full of rust powder so I didn't realize that used to be a structure.

[JeffMcBusa]

Hey Mike, so that kit has everything you need including the hardware, correct? The Energy suspension kit is cheaper by about $25.oo but does not mention hardware. I would have to round that up on my own? Glad I saw this. I have one in my wish list and would have been upset without the hardware. Am I reading this correctly?

[Exposed]

I am kind of baffled why they are so different. Everything I have read about Energy System components has been good until now.. Sounds like I need to toss these and buy the ones from Quadratrac.... Here is a link to the ones I bought from Morris... You would think the Polyurethane ones would be better than factory rubber. I figured that was why there was not an inner sleeve, just the steel one cast into the Polyurethane...

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=24102R

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Exposed

I am kind of baffled why they are so different. Everything I have read about Energy System components has been good until now.. Sounds like I need to toss these and buy the ones from Quadratrac.... Here is a link to the ones I bought from Morris... You would think the Polyurethane ones would be better than factory rubber. I figured that was why there was not an inner sleeve, just the steel one cast into the Polyurethane...

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=24102R

The rubber donuts also have the steel core cast into them, the same as the poly ones.

Both need the capture hardware for them for structure.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by JeffMcBusa

Hey Mike, so that kit has everything you need including the hardware, correct? The Energy suspension kit is cheaper by about $25.oo but does not mention hardware. I would have to round that up on my own? Glad I saw this. I have one in my wish list and would have been upset without the hardware. Am I reading this correctly?

Yup, you need the capture hardware for the donuts. They figure you can reuse the original hardware I guess. My original was just rust powder in the core so I didn't even recognize it as hardware.

The rubber donuts also have the steel sleeve cast into them so look the same as the poly one in the photo in this link without the capture hardware.

[JeffMcBusa]

Sweet. Thanks Mike. You save me some major headaches and frustration. I thought the same thing as Exposed. Plus I want new hardware. Why reuse 30 Y/O stuff unless it is in a pinch and you have no choice

[chadcarter]

Just jumping into this conversation but my Daystar kit came with metal sleeves that went over the bolt to keep from crushing the bushing. Install went with a large fender washer ontop of the bushing, the sleeve inside the bushing and a fender washer beneath the bushing, then the mounting bolt through all of this. The bushings had a metal sleeve cast into them as well. I never saw the OE hardware was long gone due to rust on mine as well. I dont think that you would need them with the Daystar kit tho, or am I grossly mistaken?

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by chadcarter

Just jumping into this conversation but my Daystar kit came with metal sleeves that went over the bolt to keep from crushing the bushing. Install went with a large fender washer ontop of the bushing, the sleeve inside the bushing and a fender washer beneath the bushing, then the mounting bolt through all of this. The bushings had a metal sleeve cast into them as well. I never saw the OE hardware was long gone due to rust on mine as well. I dont think that you would need them with the Daystar kit tho, or am I grossly mistaken?

You had the full kit like I got this time from the sounds of it, not just the bushings...

[chadcarter]

Gotcha!!!!!