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Unread 11-19-2011, 07:25 PM   #16
mjfitz99
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Great work so far!



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Unread 11-19-2011, 07:42 PM   #17
commadore64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Is that a V-Max sitting in your shop??
Yeah, it's a 1998 V-Max. All stock except I black chromed the side scopes... turned out great. It is actually my secondy Max... I used to have a 1985 model back in the '90s. The bike is actually for sale right now... my wife has never cared for it (way too fast!!!) and most recently, my Dad and Uncle had a wreck on their bikes resulting in the amputation of my Uncle's left leg... and that was kinda the last straw. I know she really worries about me on it and I'm at the point that I really don't want to worry her so much about it anymore. I don't mind though. I don't get to ride very often and can use the money for the Jeep. It seems that the past 6 or 8 months I've heard nothing but horror stories about people on bikes. Just 2 weeks ago, a guy I work with got hit by a deer on his bike... knocked him out cold and broke his foot... kinda makes me think I am being warned. Been riding fast bikes for many years now and have never had to lay one down... think I'll quit while I'm ahead and just play with Jeeps.
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1980 CJ-5
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

"A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to take everything you have." - Barry Goldwater
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Unread 11-20-2011, 01:06 PM   #18
commadore64
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I don’t know if I am doing the right thing or not, but I am going to try to keep the AMC20 on this build. If it does not hold up, I can always change it out later. I don’t plan on doing anything radical as far as off-roading goes… as I mentioned before, mostly highway with occasional trail use. I also don’t plan on going with a tire larger than 33”s. With all this in mind and after reading some threads here on JF, I think the least I could do is weld the tubes and plan on some one-piece axles during the build. With that said, I went ahead and did the tubes…



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1980 CJ-5
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

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Unread 11-20-2011, 01:36 PM   #19
GlennLever
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I'm watching. Outstanding!
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Unread 11-20-2011, 01:36 PM   #20
commadore64
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Recently came the day to start putting some things together…

Setting the engine in the frame... John Deere style...




M.O.R.E. motor mounts... expensive, but works nice.


11" flywheel install


Centerforce clutch install


Engine, tranny and transfercase installed (kinda).


Notice how I had to cut a square hole in the skid plate for the transmission to clear. Also, with the weight of the engine/tranny/transfer case combo, there was a little (not much) flex in the skip plate. I've taken the plate off and the machine shop has it now doing some reinforcement work on it. Pics when I get it back. And that brings everyone up to date where I'm at now. Thanks for watching... any and all comments welcome.
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1980 CJ-5
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

"A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to take everything you have." - Barry Goldwater
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Unread 11-20-2011, 04:41 PM   #21
commadore64
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So when I finished rebuilding the T-18, I filled it with oil and left it on a stand for about 6 months without any issues. When we bolted it to the engine in the frame, I developed a leak around the inspection cover. I used a thin coat of permatex then a gasket and another thin coat of permatex and tightened all the bolts but not enough to warp the cover. My question is, was that the best way to try to seal the case? Should I use permatex only, gasket only or what? What works best for you guys? Looks like I am gonna have to drain the case and redo that cover... what a PITA!

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1980 CJ-5
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

"A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to take everything you have." - Barry Goldwater
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Unread 11-20-2011, 05:40 PM   #22
brian613
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well some people will probably disagree but permatex or silicone or RTV what ever you wanna call it was designed as a stand alone gasket material. if i use a gasket
i normally use a product called high tack (<--- click for link) its designed to be used with gaskets while silicone or rtv or permatex is a stand alone as i said.

your build is awesome your doing a great job im almost finished with my build and just got to drive it for the first time in over a year and a half so i know how exciting it can be to be putting things back together my only advice would be to take your time and do it right the first time and resist the urge to do something "now" that can get you driving it around the house (if that makes sense)
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Unread 11-20-2011, 07:41 PM   #23
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commadore64 View Post
So when I finished rebuilding the T-18, I filled it with oil and left it on a stand for about 6 months without any issues. When we bolted it to the engine in the frame, I developed a leak around the inspection cover. I used a thin coat of permatex then a gasket and another thin coat of permatex and tightened all the bolts but not enough to warp the cover. My question is, was that the best way to try to seal the case? Should I use permatex only, gasket only or what? What works best for you guys? Looks like I am gonna have to drain the case and redo that cover... what a PITA!
That is excatly the way I do my gaskets. I would try again. I would use black though so it does not show.
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 11-20-2011, 10:27 PM   #24
Skerr
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Bob- It's beautiful!! Man you do great work! Almost wish I was at that point, so I could have that pretty frame and drivetrain again. Almost!! This is one of my favorite stages of a build.
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 11-21-2011, 06:02 AM   #25
JeepHammer
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BOB! Will you come work on MY JEEP?!!

NOTHING I do on my jeep EVER looks that good!
I may replace/add stuff, make sure it functions correctly,
But I NEVER put that much detail into making things look that good!

Now I'm wanting a 'Pretty Jeep' too!

---------------------------------------------

As for those stamped accessory covers, like rockers, PTO plates, ect.

Spray Tack the gasket to the cover, that seals up one side,
Then a THIN coating of RTV or heavy grease on the other side next to the rigid mounting surface.
That way your gasket come off with the cover and can be reused.

The problem with 'Tin' is people over-torquing and threads pulling.

Since the tin will pull down to seal even slightly warped surfaces, you don't have to worry about the rigid surfaces being perfectly flat...

By working your sealer into the rigid surface instead of the gasket, you fill in the scratches, machining marks and other imperfections, along with sealing up some pits in the cast metal.

When you put the gasket on the RTV, just SNUG UP the plate on the soft RTV, then let the RTV set up against the cover VERY LIGHTLY snugged up...
This forms a THICK seal,
When you torque the cover into place, you compress that RTV seal ONCE IT"S CURED, and you get a very good seal.

The very WORST thing you can do is torque down on UN-CURED RTV, you squeeze out the RTV and make 'Micro' clearances, where capillary movement might (and does) move the RTV out of the area you want it to be in before it cures,
The result is a big bead on the inside and outside, but none in the actual gasket areas...

One PITA Way to make sure it's sealed is with a sheet of Fel-Pro compression Gasket material.
It's brown on one side, blue on the other,
You cut out your gasket, spray tack on the the cover mating with BROWN SIDE,
The 'Blue' side faces the rigid side, and you screw it down.
It's impregnated with some sealing goop that fills the imperfections, and you are done.
It's too thick to use with something like a PTO case attachment, but for that block off cover, it's PERFECT...

With those covers, don't forget to use sealer on the BOLT THREADS!
Most of those holes are THROUGH DRILLED, and the oil will follow the threads right out of the lubrication case!


The BIGGEST problem with leaking tin covers, which you already addressed Bob, is people cranking down on them like they are a 1/2" steel plate!

They pull that top thread out of the cast iron, and NOTHING will ever seal again with that thread puckered up there in the way!
They also 'Funnel' shape the 'Tin' cover holes, that keeps them from EVER getting to compress evenly on the gasket...
Guaranteed leak every time!

With the work you do, I'm sure you didn't do that, especially since you made a point of saying you didn't over torque...

I spend as much time hammering the tin flat again as I do working on brakes (Backing Plates are ALWAYS bent,
Valve covers take time, since virtually EVERY ONE of them is dimpled around the holes,
Chronic oil pan leak complaints are usually main seals installed straight across with the main cap or someone cinching down on the oil pan bolts like there is no tomorrow!

I don't know why so many people think valve covers, timing covers, oil pans, and other tin covers need to be cranked down with a 1/2" drive Impact Wrench!
But they sure like to break those bolts, crank down on them crushing the gaskets and deforming the cover tin until it's a guaranteed leak!

Anyway, hope you get your 'Seep' fixed! And GREAT looking job by the way!
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Unread 11-29-2011, 02:29 PM   #26
commadore64
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A little bit of progess made recently. I did pick up some "high tack" gasket dressing as suggested by a few others to see if that will solve my gasket problems... I'll report on that later. I also got my skid plate reinforced. See the pics below. In one picture, I have pointed out the three pieces of steel added to the plate. (see red arrows) The longest piece at the back edge of the plate wraps from mounting hole to mounting hole allowing the mounting bolts to go through the new reinforcement steel as well. I think I have that problem whipped... I think the bolts are the weak link now!



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My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

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Unread 11-29-2011, 02:44 PM   #27
Balvar24
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Do my eyes decieve me, or is that a Snapper Hi-Vac?
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Unread 11-29-2011, 03:01 PM   #28
commadore64
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Do my eyes decieve me, or is that a Snapper Hi-Vac?
It's a commercial model Snapper I bought new around 1988. It's on it's third deck and cranks on the first pull. It smokes pretty good, but I still use it a couple of times a year around some fence on the back of my property. Not sure if it is considered a 'Hi-Vac'... how would I know for sure?
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My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...j-5-a-1290405/

"A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to take everything you have." - Barry Goldwater
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Unread 11-29-2011, 03:13 PM   #29
Jim1611
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Your paint looks outstanding on everything you're doing! Great work. I just love that shot of the engine, tranny and transfer case sitting in the frame.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 06:45 PM   #30
cjdogtoy
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GREAT WORK SO FAR I'll BE WATCHING TO SEE MORE PROGRESS.
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