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Unread 02-27-2008, 02:28 PM   #16
LSUtiger
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I found this on google. http://www.kilbyforums.com/?f=2&m=2857

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Unread 02-27-2008, 06:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSUtiger View Post
OK. I'll bite. What's a stone-type breather, and where do I get one...if this will in fact work?
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Unread 02-28-2008, 12:06 PM   #18
LSUtiger
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I have no idea what a stone-type breather is. Also from google:

iSystem Operation
C O M P R E S S O R O I L - All York compressors pump oil. There is
an internal passage that is drilled at the factory between the
suction chamber and lower crankcase.
This passage serves as the crankcase vent. When running, the
compressor will suck oil from the crankcase and deposit it in
the suction chamber of the compressor through this passage.
From there, the oil is pumped into the discharge chamber
10.
then out the air line. This is normal but needs to be dealt with.
This is why we use a coalescing (oil removal) fi lters.

and this
well.. I learned A LOT about yorks the past few days.. I did smoke my old one, literally!

After Talking to Brad Kilby himself from onboardair.com for about a 1/2hr here is what i learned to be untrue from folklore and the myths and the best ways to run these things.

#1 yorks require a MINIMUM of 6 fl oz. not 5.5 or anything less, under 6oz they will not lubricate AT ALL

#2 do not do the york oil mod, it is not necessary and will starve the york from oiling the front seal and will block air flow as well to the head.. and starves the head from oiling itself.

#3 run and maintain 12 fluid oz of straight 30 weight (non detergent!) oil. again any time below 6oz you are literally running without oil!!!

#4 the best way to run them is to run a good oil/water trap/filter and check your levels and empty the filter often... will let the york last longer and run cooler, the way it was intended to be used.

#5 as with any motor the faster the rpm it sees it will increase output but the yorks gets especially hot in higher rpms, best to try to keep engine speed at lower rpms less than 1500 while its engauged but is capable of 6000rpm..

#6 unloaders are pointless, all they do is releive pressure in the head which helps to turn the unit over once engauged which is pointless with a engine turning it, because there is plenty of power to get it moving. does your regular a/c compressor have one? but a small electric compressor would benifit being weak.

#7 use the square cut white teflon seals with the top OBA fittings on the yorks, i didnt and oops!!! with the Tube-O also use the o-ring, both of which are standard a/c service parts.

#8 lastly... the best and only mod to do to these yorks for less oil consumption is to vent the crankcase as follows.
depending on your setup you need use the oil plug hole that would see the internal crank as it is coming down to splash into the pool of oil.. most of our vehicles turn clockwise, so if you were looking at the york from the front of the vehicle (towards the back) the rotation would be moving down at the 3 O'clock position. that is the hole to make a vent for. what this does is let the crankcase pull air through the filter vs pulling air through an oiling hole therefore reducing oil consumption. basically the same thing the "old oil mod" was trying to do.

the threads are 5/16 fine thread (24) the exact fittings i used were from brake line parts from a race car shop..
#1 K&N filter part number 62-2480 (on top)
#2 a 3 to 4" chunk of 5/16" hose and 2 clamps (middle)
#3 Aeroquip brand -4 to -3 inverted flare (- are dashes) (into york)
#4 Aeroquip 1441 hose end push lock -4 female 90 (into above fitting)
#5 is a custom local part but any barb or whatnot will work to go into the 5/16 hose and the filter will set on top of it.. (into hose to hold filter)

see pic below

this setup with a brand new york 57064 Tube-O compressor from 4seasons ac parts is awesome.. little blowby and oil is finally collecting in the filter clean, not discolored and dirty. it is noticibly running cooler and smoother.

two thumbs up!!!
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Unread 02-28-2008, 12:19 PM   #19
nic99007
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Pics??? I don't see any pics. But, I would really like to.
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Unread 02-28-2008, 12:33 PM   #20
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Excellent! I think I'll give that a try and see what happens. Thanks!
Pete
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Unread 02-28-2008, 12:49 PM   #21
LSUtiger
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I got that off a chevy forum. I am not a member and they wouldn't let me see the pic.
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Unread 02-28-2008, 01:04 PM   #22
nic99007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PFS View Post
OK. I'll bite. What's a stone-type breather, and where do I get one...if this will in fact work?

I'm not sure but with a little more looking around I think this
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611626466
is what they are talking about. I think it could work to vent the case pretty well but, the kilby forum has mixed reivews on them. Does anyone have any first hand experience with a crank case vent?? It would be good to hear from someone who has messed with one.
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Unread 02-29-2008, 10:10 AM   #23
PFS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nic99007 View Post
I'm not sure but with a little more looking around I think this
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611626466
is what they are talking about. I think it could work to vent the case pretty well but, the kilby forum has mixed reivews on them. Does anyone have any first hand experience with a crank case vent?? It would be good to hear from someone who has messed with one.

That looks like what they might be talking about, but the description says it an exhaust muffler. I wonder....
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Unread 03-23-2008, 04:59 AM   #24
SlammedDJ5
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This forum runs ALOT of engine driven compressors. theres tons of info on york and sanden mods to help you keep em running right and clean.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/baggin-it/

Heres one of the threads discussing the mods

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/l...breath-253595/

Last edited by SlammedDJ5; 03-23-2008 at 05:24 AM..
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Unread 03-24-2008, 07:11 PM   #25
CJhollic
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I just installed a 20 pound CO2 tank. It makes short work out of airing up tires. I can go fron 15 to 30 pounds in under a minute. I saw a write up on another website, sorry cant remember which one, that said a 10 pound tank would air up 40 tires. With that logic I would get about 80.

I tried it with my 1/2 drive impact wrench and it pulled the lug nuts off with no problem. I have no idea how long you can run air tools but suspect it is a viable alternative to an on board air compressor.

I liked the idea because I did not want to worry about a compressor going bad in the field.

It costs about 12 bucks to fill it with CO2.

Just my 2 pennies worth.
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Unread 03-24-2008, 08:58 PM   #26
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I know some guys that use the CO2 Powertanks and love 'em. I've got the edc on my CJ but I think I'm gonna put one in my wife's Rover. Their very simple, reliable and affordable. You don't have to worry about the compressor going south, but at some point you run out of CO2. Just have to keep an eye on it though.
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Unread 03-24-2008, 10:42 PM   #27
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PFS View Post
OK. I'll bite. What's a stone-type breather, and where do I get one...if this will in fact work?
That's pretty easy, if you are an old fart!
'STONE' filters were pretty popular for fuel oil, gasses, ect. for many years in the days before Petrolum based plastics were used for everything,
And,
Back when stuff had to last and be serviceable and cleanable/rebuildable...



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611626466

Someone found out a porous type of stone, like lava or a type of lime stone, would pass liquids and gasses, but it had pretty uniform type passages, so it worked well as a filter.

Current limestone and lava beds still work as filters for drinking water in places that use aquifers for drinking water, so mother nature has been doing this for about 3 billion years or so... Not a new idea...

Later, a more uniform set of passages were needed, so uniform size metal balls (Called shot) usually made of bronze, were pressed together, and the resulting passages were a more uniform size, and these filters didn't decompose with use of acids, corrosives, ect.
If you have a gas furnace or stove, you can bet there is a 'Rock Filter' in the gas system some were...
(even if that filter element is metal, it's still referred to as a 'Rock' filter)
Most fossil fuel gasses, natural gas in particular, is corrosive, so may plastics won't stand up to the abuse.

Metal media 'Rock' filters are used in may high pressure liquid applications since paper and plastic filters would be crushed by high pressures.

Most of the old time hardware stores will have a selection of 'Rock' filters for different applications,
AND,
Many of the Heating/Air Conditioning places will have them since there are still lots of fuel oil furnaces out there which often use them, Same with old types of natural gas furnaces.

Does that help clear things up?
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Unread 03-27-2008, 04:55 PM   #28
gublube
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viar complete in a box

has anyone any input on the viar coplete in a box air systems.seems they have everything ready to go ,easy to install in a box.price is $299 for medium duty,and $399 for heavy duty.how well will this set up work for just some air tools like wrenches and so on and just air for tires.says the medium will air up 35s quick.i have a 4 wheel parts store local and seen them on the shelf stock.its only got a 2 1/2 gallon tank but seems like it would be an easy way to go.just curious as i just got the howel fuel injection kit for my 304,pricy but didnt want to spend the amount for the edelbrock pro flo,and new detroit soft lockers and so im kinda tapped on pricy things for couple weeks,but do have enough to get the viar air system already to go in one box.anyone have one of these or know anything about them.

john
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Unread 03-28-2008, 11:31 AM   #29
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gublube View Post
has anyone any input on the viar coplete in a box air systems.seems they have everything ready to go ,easy to install in a box.price is $299 for medium duty,and $399 for heavy duty.how well will this set up work for just some air tools like wrenches and so on and just air for tires.says the medium will air up 35s quick.i have a 4 wheel parts store local and seen them on the shelf stock.its only got a 2 1/2 gallon tank but seems like it would be an easy way to go.just curious as i just got the howel fuel injection kit for my 304,pricy but didnt want to spend the amount for the edelbrock pro flo,and new detroit soft lockers and so im kinda tapped on pricy things for couple weeks,but do have enough to get the viar air system already to go in one box.anyone have one of these or know anything about them.

john
Actually, we use a lot of Viair compressors where I work, and I'm not real crazy about them.
They will work fine for 99.99% of Jeepers, but in long, hard constant use, they don't have a good track record.

Thomas and Richardson compressors both outlive Viair compressors in vehicles where the air is constantly being used.

Having said that, I have a Viair in my little jeep, and between 5 & 10 gallons of storage tanks, and for the last 3 years I haven't had a problem at all.
(5 gallon tank mounted, and a 5 gallon removable tank so I can 'Lend' and transport air on the trail or camp)

If you watch closly, you can pick up a Viair compressor for under $100 used on places like E-bay or Craigs list, and the rest is easy...
Besides, the 'KIT' isn't real useful in regards to getting several different jobs done, since it doesn't come with a regulator, air pressure switch, relay or holding tank.
Those are the things that will make your air system useful...

Regulator will allow you to attach the hose to your tire and walk away without fear of over inflating.

A regulator will air down your tires so you don't have to babysit them or buy expensive air down tools.

A regulator will knock back the pressure so you can pressurize your running gear, like distributor, axles, transmission & transfer case to keep water and mud out.

A volume tank will allow you to store large quantities of air, making the time required to fill tires, air mattresses, ect. up much shorter,
AND,
A tank of reasonable size will allow you to run air powered tools from your little electric compressor.

A pressure switch allows me to have a full pressure tank at all times. When the system 'Fills', the switch shuts off the compressor, and turns it back on when the pressure drops.

A power relay allows the pressure switch to live longer, and allows the compressor to get a full current, where a lot of switches, or cigarette lighter connectors, battery clamps, ect. won't get a good enough connect to feed the compressor properly.
Some Viair compressors have a relay built in under a large plastic cap on the back end of the motor, but if you don't see that large plastic cap, you NEED a relay in line with good connections.

An air system is VERY simple once you play with one!
I find new uses for mine every summer, and it saves me TONS of work!
Since I don't do 'Service Work' out of my Jeeps, I use electric compressors in most of the vehicles...
The electric compressor and a 5 gallon tank have been more than sufficient for all but the most overworked dedicated off road vehicle in my experience...
Cheap and reliable, and also transportable between vehicles!
(Especially the ones with working air conditioning, since that compressor is taking up the mount/space I would normally use for a York...)
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Unread 04-16-2008, 09:59 AM   #30
j33pman
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Quote:
the threads are 5/16 fine thread (24) the exact fittings i used were from brake line parts from a race car shop..
#1 K&N filter part number 62-2480 (on top)
#2 a 3 to 4" chunk of 5/16" hose and 2 clamps (middle)
#3 Aeroquip brand -4 to -3 inverted flare (- are dashes) (into york)
#4 Aeroquip 1441 hose end push lock -4 female 90 (into above fitting)
#5 is a custom local part but any barb or whatnot will work to go into the 5/16 hose and the filter will set on top of it.. (into hose to hold filter)
I thought the Side port of the compressor was a 3/8" -24 thread? am I wrong here or can I get an adapter to go on here for the "Rock" filter ?
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