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Unread 07-06-2013, 07:31 PM   #76
Blutarsky
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Small part fiddling..

Didn't accomplish much cleaned and painted some small parts of the heater box and pedal assembly...

Out of the vinegar vat...





Some primer and bumper black on the heater box...









Soaking the biggest piece of the pedal assembly overnight, hope it cleans up ok.

Need to take the manual steering box off, but a little uncertain if I know what do do other than the bolts. Need to attempt to reassemble the heater box and paint the metal parts black with some semi-gloss.

In the stupid question department, once I am down to the rolling chasis is there anyway to turn the wheels to either side?

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Unread 07-06-2013, 08:27 PM   #77
rplivin
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They turn fairly easy once the steering linkage is unhooked from the steering box. Just turn them by hand or kicking them. Great job so far.
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Unread 07-06-2013, 08:57 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rplivin View Post
They turn fairly easy once the steering linkage is unhooked from the steering box. Just turn them by hand or kicking them. Great job so far.
Thank you. I'm merely not good at disassembly, re-assembly will be a hand-holding experience.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 03:39 PM   #79
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Steering Box/Shaft Removal

Put this off because I was dreading the Pitman arm issues I have read about, but decided to today.

Loosening the brackets...



Couple hours later with the pickling fork...and a progressively bigger hammer...



Now to bash this side



Finally,



I'll try to clean up and paint the bracket.











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Unread 01-28-2014, 10:09 AM   #80
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This thread isn't dead, just dormant for a while...

The AMC 360 has been to the machine shop and back, no boring needed, crank was turned, no problems found. It is wrapped up in plastic awaiting re-assembly.

The tub is off the frame and both need to be blasted and fixed. Both fenders are getting looked at by a body man who works basically odd piece jobs here and there. I have seen his other work, so I have high hopes he can do well with the fenders.

All of the small parts from the 360 are being washed or have been and are laid out for re-assembly. A few new items have been ordered like a timing chain kit and a few more will probably be needed.





The Edelbrock R4B manifold that was badly gouged (see earlier pics) has been welded up by a pro and then milled, he is fairly confident it will seal.

Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this manifold?



[IMG][/IMG]

I used a friends sandblast booth for some small parts including the valve covers and oil pan...we'll see what they look like with AMC blue.

[IMG][/IMG]

Current issues...

1) Still need a transmission, have been thinking T176, but would like input and suggestions here. I want a manual for sure.

2) A friend with far better skill than me, sandblasted his frame himself. The buddy whose shop this Jeep is in has a suitable compressor and blaster, am I crazy to attempt to blast the frame myself?

3) I am thinking I may have the tub professionally media blasted. Thoughts?

4) My mechanic friend is concerned with one area of scoring on the inside of the timing chain cover where the oil pump gear has appeared to mar the inside, perhaps sand or grit got in there. Has anyone seen this before? I have seen very high prices on replacement timing chain covers. I know there is no way to quantify the scoring on this forum but if it isn't terribly severe am I looking at oil pressure problems?

5) How are the brake line kits that are out there for this era?

Thanks for any suggestions.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 03:09 PM   #81
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There is an oiling mod you can do to make the 360 get oil to all motor parts. Never done it, don't know much about it, but I know it's done sometimes.

Murph
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Unread 01-28-2014, 03:31 PM   #82
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I have read about it here, undecided if it is necessary for what I will do with this Jeep. Don't know enough though.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 03:50 PM   #83
Matt1981CJ7
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I went rounds with the oiling mods. In the end, here's what I did.

1. Bored the main oil passageway to 1/2"
2. Removed the casting imperfections on the drain holes.
3. Gasket-matched the oil ports at the pump.
4. Gyptoled the inner surfaces for better flow.
5. Insured proper tolerances between pump gears and pressure plate.

I get a consistent 40-50 psi while driving and 20 at idle using 10W-30.

Matt
oilporting7.jpg   oildrain1.jpg   oildrain2.jpg   oilporting1.jpg   oilporting3.jpg  

glyptal2.jpg   glyptal5.jpg   oilpump1.jpg  
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Unread 02-02-2014, 08:12 PM   #84
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Timing Cover Q

On my timing chain cover at the oil pump, where the "pump gear" fits into the cover, there is some scoring. It isn't a gouge but it is enough to catch your nail. The score isn't the complete circumference of the opening, just in one spot. Should I replace the whole thing? I know there is no way to say on a written description and I'm not sure a picture would help much either. I don't know if this is a particularly sensitive area for a leak or not. Any thoughts?
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Unread 02-06-2014, 01:40 PM   #85
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Another random question...

Would a wide track Dana 30 front and a rear Dana 44 from a '71 Scout work? WMS to WMS on the 44 is measured at 56 11/16.

Appreciate some input.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 02:45 PM   #86
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Should work fine. Rear may be a little wider. Same bolt pattern, though. Probably have to move the spring perches on the 44. I'm assuming the Dana 30 is from a CJ?

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Unread 02-06-2014, 03:19 PM   #87
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Yes Murph, from a later CJ 7 with the wide track.
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Unread 02-09-2014, 05:16 PM   #88
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A little work over the weekend. Basically stripping the frame as best I could with just a couple of snapped bolts, should be ready for a power wash when the weather warms up.











Primed the valve covers and oil pan...





Hoping to hit them with some AMC blue this week.



Should pick up a new front end shortly and a Dana 300.
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Unread 02-09-2014, 07:35 PM   #89
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New old stuff

Picked up a wide track Dana 30...











And a Dana 300







P.O. believes the gearing in the front is 3.07 but isn't sure. Came out of an '84 CJ-7.

Both need to be cleaned up and probably more.
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Unread 02-10-2014, 04:27 PM   #90
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Help! Please

I'm totally stuck in the planning stages...need some sage advice please...

I want this CJ to be basically a road jeep, but I do want to be able to do light trails etc some mud..no rock crawling, no severe stuff. It will spend far more time on streets than trails. Some things I want for no particular reason other than I just want it that way, like the way it looks etc... I'd like to be able to do 65 mph without over-revving... This thing is purely a toy, won't be making cross country trips on the interstate etc..

Things I am certain of...

AMC 360 with a carb, no FI. It is pretty much stock, back from the machinist waiting to be assembled.

Front Dana 30, wide track from '84 CJ 7 see above. Gearing is believed to be 3.07, but I will open it and re-gear as/if needed. Further looking at the front end...the plate on it has 30-43-13...which I think indicates 3.31 gears. If this is wrong please correct me.

Transfer case is a Dana 300 which I have. I will have it gone through and serviced, I'm not capable of doing that I don't think. I'd like to have it twin sticked for no particular reason other than that everyone says I should and it looks cool...

From here on I need help.

Rear is undetermined. Either a wide track AMC 20 from a CJ 7, or a Dana 44 from a Scout or other suitable... Gearing is undetermined, I need help there. I would want to do the modification to the 2 piece axles and replace them on the AMC 20.

Transmission: big question marks here. I would like ideally a T-19. One suggested setup is a T-19 5:1, with adapter to the Dana 300. With that gearing, then the rear would be geared higher to make it more streetable (I'm told)...cost is very high, I just am not able to find one used to have rebuilt and don't know enough to know which ones can be modified for my purposes... The adapters from Novak or Advanced look like min $300. A rebuilt Novak T-19 basically about $1500.

T-176. The benefit is no adapter, its compatible, less hassle, it's a 4 speed which I want. The downside, I cannot find one, it's not as heavy duty as the T-19, but perhaps would be fine for my purposes even behind the 360. I don't know how it is geared, but I assume it either is or can be altered to fit my purpose.

T-150. I don't really want a 3 speed. I have the original one from this jeep. As you can see from the history of this jeep, it would need to be overhauled. Same compatibility benefits as I see it with the T 176. Cost is obviously the biggest advantage here. My old '73 CJ when I was a kid had this transmission, I just didn't care for it much. All in all however it may be the most sensible thing.

I have asked questions as many places as I can to figure out a plan before spending big $$$. I'm just not getting much information. I know when I am out of my knowledge league and at this point I am, I know what I don't know...hence I need guidance.

Please make suggestions, I need a plan and am not going to figure one out without some help. Thanks.

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