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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:11 PM   #61
Blutarsky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pritchaj2000 View Post
Not an expert, but some things seems a little concerning. AMC marked the journals when the engine was first assembled, finding them in the wrong holes strikes me as someone not taking the care needed when reassembling. But again I'm an amiture and there may be a valid reason for doing this.

The 40 over shouldn't be to big of a deal. If memory serves, the 360 block had enuff metal to go 60 over, but that's mostly racing engines with lots of looking after.

You should get a couple of good replies here. But I would also advise joining http://theamcforum.com/forum/ lots of good info there. Another good resource is Buba Builds an AMC. Lots of good info and how tos on building your engine when it gets back from the machine shop.
Thanks. The engine has been rebuilt, apparently by someone not paying much attention... I will look into that forum.

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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:12 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by arkiemurph View Post
Looks like you're doing a good job, Bluto! Still wish I'd bought that Jeep!

Murph
Appreciate it. I may send you a PM when I have a moment re the Jeep. You may be glad you didn't.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:39 AM   #63
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Appreciate it. I may send you a PM when I have a moment re the Jeep. You may be glad you didn't.
I read your whole thread. Your Jeep has a lot of pluses. I wish you hadn't bought it in my backyard and hauled it all the way across Texas. If you were around here, I'd come by and help you out! BTW, your wiring doesn't look bad. I wouldn't throw a bunch of money away on a painless harness. Have fun with your project. It can be enjoyable if you take your time and just mess with it when your in the mood.

Murph
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Unread 06-28-2013, 12:16 PM   #64
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I can't add anything about the engine, but I would suggest the PO used the intake as a workbench and drilled through something into the sidewall.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 02:24 PM   #65
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I can't add anything about the engine, but I would suggest the PO used the intake as a workbench and drilled through something into the sidewall.
We thought maybe they just beat on it with a hammer for giggles utterly baffling..? What "model" intake is that? I figure it is never to early to start thinking about intake/carb combos. FI seems to be very expensive from what I have read here.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 09:07 PM   #66
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Fiddling around

Did a few things last day or two nothing worth pictures. Scrubbed the heater box and put a quick thin coat of bumper black flat paint on one side. Still cannot remove the flap from inside the vented box (front of the heater box). Freed one side but the flap will have to slide off the rod to come out and it won't budge. Soaking it in vinegar overnight hoping to dissolve the rust and slide it off.

Wrestled out the rusted, stuck screws that once held the long departed fender flares. The screws holding the soft top snaps won't budge and on many you can't get to the back, not sure what will happen there.

Still waiting to get it to a shop to deal with the roll bar bolts and windshield hinge screws. Then lift the tub.

Question for the Por 15 users, does it need to be blasted for this stuff to work on both the frame and tub? Would scraping, sanding, prepping be sufficient? I'll have to pay for blasting and would like to avoid that if I can.

Second can body work be done over the Por 15 or must it be done first?

Thanks
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Unread 07-03-2013, 07:21 AM   #67
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For 'Black Betty' and the minimal body rust I found (floor pan) I wire brushed the loose stuff and vacuumed it. Then applied Metal Ready as per reccomendations by POR 15, after it scaled up I then applied POR 15 and after that had set sprayed Rustoleum for finish. It's held up very well over the last 4 years.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 07:43 AM   #68
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There's a local guy here close to Texarkana that has an Edelbrock intake for $100. It'll fit your 360. If interested, lemme know. I'll get his number.

Murph
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Unread 07-03-2013, 09:14 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by turbogus View Post
For 'Black Betty' and the minimal body rust I found (floor pan) I wire brushed the loose stuff and vacuumed it. Then applied Metal Ready as per reccomendations by POR 15, after it scaled up I then applied POR 15 and after that had set sprayed Rustoleum for finish. It's held up very well over the last 4 years.
Thanks, I think I'm in a similar situation on the floor. Have a patch or two on the sides. Dent in the hood to fix, major issue with one fender.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 09:16 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkiemurph View Post
There's a local guy here close to Texarkana that has an Edelbrock intake for $100. It'll fit your 360. If interested, lemme know. I'll get his number.

Murph
Thanks, I may send you PM. Do you know the model #?
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Unread 07-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #71
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Independence Day Attack

On the windshield bolts... A combo of drill, hammer, punch, easy out etc...

Some came willingly and intact...



Others not so much:



But they all came out and the windshield is off...





The windshield frame doesn't look good, I'm thinking it has to be replaced but I'd like some second opinions here...





Managed to get two of the roll bar bolts out intact, the remainder are no go.

Also got the problematic flap loose on the heater box, so hopefully I can start repainting reassembling the heater box per the tutorial on here.

Also started taking apart the brake and clutch pedal assembly to put in the vinegar vat, clean up and paint. Took lots of pics to get it back together (hopefully) and a before and after on the vinegar clean up. Before...







Some after's once they come out.
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Unread 07-04-2013, 03:03 PM   #72
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As I understand AMC's (very little) I've heard the 340, 360 and 401 share the same block, so if this motor needs further boring there ought to be plenty of meat. Once upon a time I had a '77 Chevy Blazer with the small block 400, and a TH 400 trans, A/C. In order to keep the engine cool Chevy installed a 6 row radiator. What's more those Chevy 400's use different heads with more/larger water jackets in them than any standard SBC.
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Unread 07-05-2013, 12:54 PM   #73
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Machinist Report

Heard from the machinist on the 360 today...

Block was magnafluxed (?) and has no cracks. No need for boring. The machinist honed it. Rods were not cracked and he has resized them. Pistons were beadblasted and checked out good. Crank is not cracked and polished out without the need to turn it.

Heads have been disassembled, cleaned and magnafluxed (?). No cracks. He will order and install freezeplugs and cam bearings to finish out the block. He needs the gasket to finish out the heads along with springs and keepers.

All in all I'd say a pretty good report.

Hopefully another couple weeks to get the engine back for reassembly.
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Unread 07-05-2013, 11:20 PM   #74
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The windshield frame doesn't look good, I'm thinking it has to be replaced but I'd like some second opinions here...



Good job on the WS bolts. And the cowl looks good. You CAN repair that WS frame if you want to. I have done two now, and they came out fine. Our rust issues were identical to yours, plus a couple places on the lip where the glass seal attaches. We cut out the rusted portions and welded in new metal. We used 18ga steel. It was fairly easy to shape and bend. My son and I had never done anything like that before, and I was pleased. The big question is how long will it last? I don't know that, but I hope for a few years.

And awesome news on the engine!
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
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Unread 07-06-2013, 05:46 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Good job on the WS bolts. And the cowl looks good. You CAN repair that WS frame if you want to. I have done two now, and they came out fine. Our rust issues were identical to yours, plus a couple places on the lip where the glass seal attaches. We cut out the rusted portions and welded in new metal. We used 18ga steel. It was fairly easy to shape and bend. My son and I had never done anything like that before, and I was pleased. The big question is how long will it last? I don't know that, but I hope for a few years.

And awesome news on the engine!
Thanks for the input, I've heard horror stories about the aftermarket ones, I'd like to try and fix it.
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