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Unread 06-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #46
Blutarsky
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Worked a little more tonight...

Sayonara to the master cylinder..



Disconnected the clutch linkage or whatever it's called



Removed the brake and clutch pedal assembly







Removed the upper ductwork (?) above the heater box, so that side is clear...



Cleaned out the mounds of dirt and pine needles in the fresh air vent or whatever it's called...



Tilted the windshield forward no rust although that may be an area that never gets rusty...



Fuse box and wiring harness removed...





After following the suggestion above on the e-brake assembly, the line was cut and assembly came out...





With the dash out I could get to the nuts on the back of the torx bolts on the windshield hinges that go into the tub, I was able to break several but stopped because I really needed another set of hands dedicated to holding the torx bit on the outside, the inside nuts were extremely tight even after breaking so it will be a slow go, I don't want to strip them out now...

The bolts going into the windshield hinges on the front are stripped and there doesn't seem to be a way to reach the nuts on the back side of those. So still not sure what to do there.

It will have to go to a friends shop to lift the drive train, tub and attempt to break the roll bar torx bolts. And from what I read a cutting torch after the tub mounts don't come loose either.

All in all a good night with assistance from my 8 year old.

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Unread 06-19-2013, 09:41 PM   #47
Skerr
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Good news on the windshield frame. It is very common to have much rust underneath when you fold it down. That puts you lightyears ahead!
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Unread 06-19-2013, 10:00 PM   #48
Artiemac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Good news on the windshield frame. It is very common to have much rust underneath when you fold it down. That puts you lightyears ahead!
I can vouch for that! Mine has plenty. Almost all on the windshield frame and very little on the tub, so I guess that's a plus.... Keep up the good work.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 10:46 AM   #49
Blutarsky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artiemac View Post
I can vouch for that! Mine has plenty. Almost all on the windshield frame and very little on the tub, so I guess that's a plus.... Keep up the good work.
I'm glad to hear this from both of you, I think I'm pretty fortunate on rust issues, when the tub comes off I'll get a better look at the frame and rust issues there.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #50
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Power Steering Boxes

Are there boxes off of other vehicles that are compatible with the '79 CJ5? The ones on fleabay are $$$. Thanks
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:29 PM   #51
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I will mix the facts here, but someone will get it straightened out! The steering boxes are very common on most GM vehicles t/o the 70's and 80's. Cars and trucks. The only difference that occurred, and I don't know what year the change happened, is the type of fitting used for the hard lines into the box. The early lines used a flared fitting, and the later lines used an "O" ring. It's a crap shoot when you pull one from a JY vehicle. I went through that, and it cost me $50. It was better than what I had, but I still ended up replacing it with a reman from Auto Zone. It was $130 with a lifetime warranty. I think money well spent.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #52
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The Ebay ones don't take off the core charge. Same money if you get it at a parts store and not have one. Your manual box should do the trick, not sure they would care if you have manual or power
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Unread 06-25-2013, 10:25 PM   #53
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Heater Box and Random Stuff

A little done tonight on taking apart the heater box...a couple of questions below.

First, the e-brake assembly cleaned up pretty well I thought in vinegar. It went from:





to:



The speckling shown above occurred in about 30 minutes when I went in for dinner. After rinsing the vinegar away, it was very clean steel, then this. How best do I protect this for the time being? I sprayed a light coat of penetrating oil on it for the moment, should I prime it? Not worry about it?

Every other small part cleaned up well in the vinegar, I was surprised and impressed.



The decals sure remove easily from the side of the vehicle compared to the hood I guess where the sun baked it for 30+ years...no more side decals.





Began taking the heater box apart...



How does the linkage come off? Same questions below, seems to be riveted in.?











My disassembly tech...




Some questions:

How does this flap come apart and out?



There appears to be nothing but a rivet like piece holding it in, how does it come out without breaking?

Same question on this flap:





The old heater core, have a new one, sure looks flimsy compared to this.





The hamster wheel thingy...

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Unread 06-26-2013, 11:42 AM   #54
Blutarsky
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bump hoping for help on the flap removals
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Unread 06-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #55
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I think yours may be frozen by rust - If I remember correctly, the flap should just slide off that rod. You might try some PB blaster and gentle pulling.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 11:27 PM   #56
kjonesie
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I think the flap has a keeper on the end of the rod and it comes out in one piece
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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:46 AM   #57
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AMC 360 tear down

Last niht I had a chance to go to my friend's shop to tear down the AMC 360 for the machine shop. Took about 3 hours, would have taken him less if he were not waiting on me to do something or teaching me something or explaining something. Learned a lot and it was worth the time for sure.

My camera was on the blink, so I had to use my phone or most of them, hopefully I'll edit the post with some others from a real camera when i recover them.

It started as this from an earlier shot...







No one has been able to explain why someone would butcher the intake manifold like this, still open to suggestion...



Started removing pieces...

















This bolt...



was messed up coming out of this hole (on right), he thinks it will have to be tapped and a new bolt found...



One of these was broken in half...



One of the push rods was marred on one end...



But other than that he thought the motor looked good. This is from a mechanic's view, he isn't a machinist, but there were no alarm bells that went off.

One thing that was disappointing is that the engine was sold as "never been bored"...however it appeared to him that it had been.



The cylinder walls looked good and rough mic'ing seemed to confirm a 040 bore over.

The other strange thing he found, and I put this out there to see if this is perhaps normal, is that the rods were not placed in the correct cylinders...here is the diagram of cylinder and rod numbers that we found...



He isn't an AMC guy, but he could not figure out why they were arranged this way. We made the diagram and photographed all the journals...



in these various locations. Is there some explanation for this, is this normal? In the event the pistons are usable, we know where they go back.

Generally he felt like it had a pretty recent rebuild, and that I might get away with honing, rings and no more boring, but he isn't a machinist, so we'll see. He felt like it was burning a little oil, but that it was a pretty good looking engine after 130k miles.

Cylinder wall...













Caps



Crank



Ready to go to the machine shop...







I'd welcome observations as always. If you see something interesting or a red flag please post.

Hopefully they will get dropped off at the machinist today. He will dip and inspect and tell me what I have and what will be needed. No idea how long that will be.

All in all a pretty good night, it was 107 here yesterday, so it was a little brutal in the shop but worth it.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 01:33 PM   #58
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In for surgery

Dropping off at the machine shop, probably be a few weeks to hear something.

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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:05 PM   #59
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Not an expert, but some things seems a little concerning. AMC marked the journals when the engine was first assembled, finding them in the wrong holes strikes me as someone not taking the care needed when reassembling. But again I'm an amiture and there may be a valid reason for doing this.

The 40 over shouldn't be to big of a deal. If memory serves, the 360 block had enuff metal to go 60 over, but that's mostly racing engines with lots of looking after.

You should get a couple of good replies here. But I would also advise joining http://theamcforum.com/forum/ lots of good info there. Another good resource is Buba Builds an AMC. Lots of good info and how tos on building your engine when it gets back from the machine shop.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:58 PM   #60
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Looks like you're doing a good job, Bluto! Still wish I'd bought that Jeep!

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