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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:06 AM   #1
Blutarsky
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Bluto's Nonsense-79 CJ 5 Do-Over

"This is the end of this nonsense" is what my father told me in late 1984 upon taking away my 1973 Tally-ho Green CJ 5. Throughout high school I had beaten the snot out of this jeep and he was tired of the issues, even though he dealt with little of them and it cost him practically no money. A friend and I both had CJ 5's and mudded and generally abused them, it was a lot of fun. I wasn't happy about the takeaway...one day I'll....

Fast forward almost 30 years and several years of wishing and finally giving in to the "unreasonableness" of the whole idea, peer pressure from the same high school friend, co-workers egging me on...and finally with the approval (at least for now) of my wife, here goes some more nonsense.

My toolbox has been basically untouched since '84, other than being moved from place to place. I had to drill the lock because I had long lost the key. I have little mechanical skill, knowledge or patience so this is truly nonsense. I do have skilled help and have been emboldened by this forum, Youtube and Jack Daniels.

I have had difficulty formulating a plan...I do a lot of sitting and staring at it, waiting on things to magically happen. It will be a largely a street/weekend vehicle. I would like to occasionally run it through mud, though we have no moisture where I live. I have been rock-crawling in Hot Springs, AR with my same high school friend in his CJ7 designed for it... I have a mangled L4-5 to show for it and amazement that more isn't broken, along with the vehicles I saw. Rock crawling is not in my future. I want it to have decent street manners but still be a CJ, so I know it won't be ideal on the road.

It came with: 258 I6, Dana 30 front, AMC 20 rear, T150, and I believe a Dana 20 transfer case. The rust doesn't appear to be bad, there is a maybe 1 x 2" area to patch, the driver's side fender may have to be replaced. The tub looks pretty solid so far, no obvious patching needed. Lots of surface rust to sand. The frame appears straight. It is a hideous brown which will be replaced by something truly obnoxious to be determined.

I have picked up a 360, (chickened out on an available 401) still mulling and trying to understand transmission issues and choices (see my cry for help in the Drivetrain section), the existing one may be usable but has some sort of issue with first gear. I have read with great interest the thread of the Pig rebuild, it overwhelmed me. I can however point at the finished picture Matt posted and babble "want that..."

I would like to re-do everything, but I don't think that will be practical. One piece axels may have to wait, the ideal transmission may have to wait, other cool bells and whistles may have to wait. I'd like to get the 360 rebuilt, the transmission functional, the tub and pieces repaired and painted, get it driveable and go from there. I expect to accomplish this by 2020 in time for my son to carry on family tradition and take it away from me.

Maybe this isn't such a good idea



It followed me home I swear



Important info...wish I knew what it meant



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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:16 AM   #2
Newbjeep
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How much did you pay for the jeep I you don't mind me asking
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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:17 AM   #3
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It would be sensible to just keep the 258....the SBC is cheap, available and easy...that would be a good idea. No, no the theme is nonsense...





Why? Anyone anyone? Grinding practice?



I remember this name from back when...they make those heavy thingys..



Engine stand?

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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:25 AM   #4
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Just start unbolting things they said...





I hope it doesn't look like this in 2015



I'm certifiably ignorant, but this doesn't look too bad does it?

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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:34 AM   #5
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I'm told this is easily patchable... of course in the context of people with skills, tools, knowledge etc..



How about this one? Kinda folded up under there..



Was told this looked pretty good..



Maybe not fixable?



Passenger floor...

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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:37 AM   #6
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Defiantly subscribed to your thread and ya that will be an easy patch for some one that can weld the fender tho that might take a ton if work I'd prob buy a new one
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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:41 AM   #7
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The question came out the door into the garage, "do you know what you are doing?" I declined to answer...

Is this a normal looking 258 radiator? Why does the core or whatever that is, not go back all the way to the edge of the frame?



Not mangled...





I guess this is coming off next...





I have accomplished my goal of the Jeep not looking the way it did a post or two above in 2015.

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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbjeep View Post
Defiantly subscribed to your thread and ya that will be an easy patch for some one that can weld the fender tho that might take a ton if work I'd prob buy a new one
Thanks, I'd appreciate any commentary, advice, suggestions, identification, scorn, mock, ridicule whatever. Particularly if something is worth saving, unusual, completely wrong etc..
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Unread 05-31-2013, 12:15 PM   #9
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Take lots of pictures and label and bag everything as you unbolt. It will help when reassembling the puzzle.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 12:33 PM   #10
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when reassembling
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Unread 06-02-2013, 07:36 PM   #11
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Dis assembly continues...

The last few days has been stripping bolt heads, screw heads etc.. Had a hard time getting any one item completely done.

Tried to label some wires, probably not enough, the PO's wiring is curious.



The PO's wadded up ziplock bag oil fill cap



After getting the driver's side fender off, the coffee can looking thing that promptly disintegrated when I got it out of the bracket from the firewall and some Arkansas pine needles...





Removing the spare tire bracket proved to be hours of frustration. The pan headed bolt indicated and the one like it on the other side, I don't know the terminology, but it has basically a nut under the pan that would secure the bolt, and the nut tightens down from the other side. It appears the PO put these into round holes with nothing for the nut to bite on, so removing the rusty nut on the other side took a couple of hours trying to figure out how to secure the pan head enough to break the locked up rusted nut on the other side...



Finally...I didn't think it looked horrible under the bracket, but what do I know. Does it look decent enough? I expected worse.



The back tub, which was under a rubber mat for who knows how long. No holes or thin spots I can find.



My first assistant supervising the spare tire ordeal



Got the passenger seat out without much trouble. No holes under it.



The driver side seat was another story. 2 bolts out easy, this one extremely stuck with very little room to move any tool I had. I could turn it less than a quarter turn with a wrench, but it finally came off.



The front outside bolt however is still there. It is extremely frozen with rust and to go along with it, the PO apparently secured the under side with some kind of odd nut, almost square like...a socket won't fit. There is little room to get anything in there, so I'm not sure what to do with this one, I planned to powerwash the tub but the seat is held up with this one bolt.

Got all of the dash torx screws lose except for two, one broke off and one hasn't moved and I don't want to break it too. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It is the driver's side, lowest screw and the stripped one is the passenger side lowest screw. Broke the head off on the lower right...



The torx screws on the roll bar I frozen as well, I haven't really tried yet on them for fear of stripping them too. I have applied PB several times and will just let them soak a while. Removed the cheap aftermarket tail lights as well

Drained the oil and got most of the coolant out, maybe in another week or so I can lift the 258 out.

Most of the screws for the snaps on the body for an old soft top are frozen, if you apply force the screw head strips. Suggestions? Can they be knocked out from the inside with a punch? Thanks for looking and any comments or help.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 11:00 AM   #12
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Good looking tub to start with. The lack of rusted through sheet metal is pretty impressive.
Typically, the seat belt bolts screw through the floor into a square "nut" that is welded to the tub. If the PO didn't change something, it should still be that way. Since you are planning on repainting anyway, you may want to call in some heat to assist on those tough bolts and screws. You don't have to go out and buy and expensive oxy acetaline torch outfit for this. I have found very few bolts/screws on the jeeps, short of large frame or suspension bolts, that can't be convinced with the little propane torch. It's cheap to buy and fuel and convenient to handle/store. I find myself grabbing it much more than I do dragging out the oxy acetaline torch for little things. Of course, be mindful of flamables. Although its little and not as intimidating as a large torch outfit, it is equally dangerous.
Good luck. Looking forward to seeng your success.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 01:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walter1978 View Post
Good looking tub to start with. The lack of atrusted through sheet metal is pretty impressive.
Typically, the seat belt bolts screw through the floor into a square "nut" that is welded to the tub. If the PO didn't change something, it should still be that way. Since you are planning on repainting anyway, you may want to call in some heat to assist on those tough bolts and screws. You don't have to go out and buy and expensive oxy acetaline torch outfit for this. I have found very few bolts/screws on the jeeps, short of large frame or suspension bolts, that can't be convinced with the little propane torch. It's cheap to buy and fuel and convenient to handle/store. I find myself grabbing it much more than I do dragging out the oxy acetaline torch for little things. Of course, be mindful of flamables. Although its little and not as intimidating as a large torch outfit, it is equally dangerous.
Good luck. Looking forward to seeng your success.
Thanks Walter, I will try that this weekend. It does appear to have a squarish look,though its obvious that someone has tried to get it off before me.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #14
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Stripped torx bolts...lots of them. Roll bar, one in the dash, windshield hinges and bracket. What is the best, only(?) way to get them out? I cannot weld a nut on... Drill them? Heat them? Suggested to get an "easy out". There are also an entire set of soft top snaps on the body which just spin...suggestion there?

I'd appreciate any help.
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Unread 06-10-2013, 09:53 AM   #15
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Still hoping for suggestions

A little more destruction over the past few days. I am stuck in several places...

I am basically stuck in several spots with stripped out torx bit bolt heads...

The roll bar is a major issue, this side came out ok



This side not so much, I have tried everything I can, so in a few weeks it will go to a shop to weld nuts on the bolt heads and go at it that way...



If anyone has any other suggestion I'd love to hear it.

Got the steering column out...









I attempted to power wash everything, but my washer wasn't feeding soap, so not much success there until I can fix the washer.

The stuck bolt on the driver's side I finally had to cut with an angle grinder, but the seat is out.



This one blasted bolt is holding up taking off the dash, I guess I will have to go the weld on the nut route with it too...



Various windshield hinge bolts are either stripped or just spin, so I have been unable to get the windshield off...





How does the plug below come out?



Rear tub...I was asked how many bolts hold a back seat in, in the '79 CJ-5? It appears to be 3 in a triangle pattern, is that correct?



This hole was crudely patched...was it a clock? It's to the left of the column, above the light switch, bad pic I know.



I'd appreciate any advice.
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