Bluto's Nonsense-79 CJ 5 Do-Over - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 10:15 AM
walkerhoundvm
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Love it.

When stripped bolts get me down, I break out the angle grinder. Of course, a better place to start is anticipating that you'll run into trouble and soak everything in PB Blaster for a few days, giving each bolt you want to remove a couple shots of the stuff a day. Then, get yourself a propane torch - they run $30-40 at hardware stores. Heat, let cool. Heat, let cool. Heat, let cool. Then try to remove the bolt. If that doesn't work, wash, rinse, repeat. My guess is that it improves your chances of getting every bolt out by 50%. Another thing you can do with an angle grinder is try to file the edges down to make a square - something you can grab with a pair of pliers and rotate out. That worked for me once...once.

The hole looks like a POs attempt at either a clock or tach input. Probably a tach, looks too small for a standard CJ clock. Or could be a glory hole...who knows.

Yes - rear seats used three bolt holes for the OEM rear seat.

If I were you, I'd ditch the wiring by just completely cutting everything and ripping that fuse box out - it has two screws holding the front to the back, and it should separate fairly easily once you remove them. Then get yourself one of the aftermarket wiring harnesses, i.e. Painless or EZ-wire.

Keep up the good work!!

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post #17 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 10:19 AM
roboto65
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If you look at the front of that plug it should have a bolt head just unscrew that and wiggle it should come undone. The hole was for a clock yes.

They say money can't buy happiness but it can buy Jeep parts...and Jeep parts make me really Happy.
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post #18 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
Blutarsky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Love it.

When stripped bolts get me down, I break out the angle grinder. Of course, a better place to start is anticipating that you'll run into trouble and soak everything in PB Blaster for a few days, giving each bolt you want to remove a couple shots of the stuff a day. Then, get yourself a propane torch - they run $30-40 at hardware stores. Heat, let cool. Heat, let cool. Heat, let cool. Then try to remove the bolt. If that doesn't work, wash, rinse, repeat. My guess is that it improves your chances of getting every bolt out by 50%. Another thing you can do with an angle grinder is try to file the edges down to make a square - something you can grab with a pair of pliers and rotate out. That worked for me once...once.

The hole looks like a POs attempt at either a clock or tach input. Probably a tach, looks too small for a standard CJ clock. Or could be a glory hole...who knows.

Yes - rear seats used three bolt holes for the OEM rear seat.

If I were you, I'd ditch the wiring by just completely cutting everything and ripping that fuse box out - it has two screws holding the front to the back, and it should separate fairly easily once you remove them. Then get yourself one of the aftermarket wiring harnesses, i.e. Painless or EZ-wire.

Keep up the good work!!
Thank you, I think the wiring has to go, I dread the thought of wiring. I looked at another 79 CJ-5 build thread with immense detail of his rewire...I got the shakes...


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post #19 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roboto65 View Post
If you look at the front of that plug it should have a bolt head just unscrew that and wiggle it should come undone. The hole was for a clock yes.
Thank you. Will there be something similar on the passenger compartment side once I get the dash out?


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post #20 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Body Question

I am going to start sanding the hood and fenders with an orbital sander, what grit sandpaper should I start with for dry sanding?


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post #21 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 04:30 PM
walkerhoundvm
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Nope, that's your fuse box. Later years had a computer up in there, but not in '79.
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post #22 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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A new experiment

Okay, so I'm stymied with dismantling things... so..

I got the hood out and tried some light sanding or hopefully light. I have read varied opinions here from "just scuff it up" to "take it to bare metal"... Still open to suggestions on that question. The hood has a couple of major dents, the hood latches or what he latch hooks onto are frozen with rust, if I push it they will just strip out right now, I have been spraying blaster every day but no movement yet. I figure I'll break them shortly it is my best automotive skill The decal is a problem, more later.

This is what it looked like on arrival, some dirt something a little more stubborn than dirt, I don't know what...



Major dent just below the blue line, I'm sure it's evident but I like playing with the photo editor...arrow is the deepest spot...



I used an orbital sander, with 220 grit. I had read lighter and heavier, so I split the difference. I have some 320 and 400 on order and have heavier. I basically sanded 1/2 of the hood and left the other as is:



I made a conscious effort to go very light, but as you can see in a place or two it removed everything. There is a sizable dent from throwing the hood back against the windshield, that should be evident.



Here is a portion of the unsanded side where I just did a hard scrub with soap and water on one corner...



The sanded side..





The sander didn't do anything to the decal...what are my options there? It makes me think that I will have to strip the entire thing to bare metal for uniformity just to get the decal off. Help!





Unsanded side...



I figured I better quit and get some advice here before I really screwed something up, so I piddled around with a bunch of nothing and quit. I did however come to staring at this with the angle grinder in my hand, but I came to my senses and backed away..



How fast does a 220 piece degrade on an orbital on the lowest speed? Could also use suggestions on the dent...have I mentioned I know zero about body work?


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post #23 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 08:49 PM
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I think you need to slow down and come up with a plan of attack. Why are you sanding? Are you going to repaint it? Get yourself an easy out, it has reverse threads that tighten into the bolt as you are unscrewing.

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #24 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 08:56 PM
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^^agreed^^ With the damage and all the work necessary, you might just as well look into finding a used hood and starting over.

Time to slow down and think so you're not wasting time and money
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post #25 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83vert View Post
I think you need to slow down and come up with a plan of attack. Why are you sanding? Are you going to repaint it? Get yourself an easy out, it has reverse threads that tighten into the bolt as you are unscrewing.
Yes I am repainting the entire jeep. Even if it was still a nice paint job I hate brown, primer gray would look better to me.

I have an easy out. In following the instructions, the screw head will not drill. Just rolls, the easy out will not bite, it just blunts the tip, same for any drill bit I have.


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post #26 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
^^agreed^^ With the damage and all the work necessary, you might just as well look into finding a used hood and starting over.

Time to slow down and think so you're not wasting time and money
I'm not sure I'm ready to give it up and buy a hood. Time I have, the thinking part I have no issue with, but knowledge isn't going to materialize, thus the questions here.


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post #27 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 09:48 PM
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Try grinding the torx head flat and then try drilling it out. The drill bit may be catching on the edges of the torx and dulling before it starts to drill.
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post #28 of 128 Old 06-10-2013, 10:35 PM
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Your hood has the infamous "Jeep Crease". Happens when someone forgets to latch the hood and takes off down the road. There was a thread on this particular phenomenon in the photo request portion of the forum. My hood had the same crease. Difficult to get out due to the hump in the middle of the hood and the rounded edges. After working with it for a while I finally went out and bought a used hood with no dents.
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post #29 of 128 Old 06-13-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Continued sanding, attempting to remove the decal. Basically by hand with heavier grit, it comes off with a lot of effort. Didn't sweep the dirt away, but there is plenty of decal left to go.







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post #30 of 128 Old 06-13-2013, 10:33 PM
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The bolts on the lower part of the windshield hinge have nuts on the back side. If you get the dash off they will become apparent. I've wormed a wrench up there even with the dash in place. If the torx aren't stripped too badly you may be able to either break them lose or snap them off.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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