Blue smoke after oil change (4.2 MPI) - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 09-08-2011, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
flyin8s234
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marquette
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Blue smoke after oil change (4.2 MPI)

Hey guys,
so the other day i went to a local shop to get a free oil change (usually do it myself)... they charged me anyway and put 5w30 in, i have used 10w30 for years. Now i am noticing blue smoke from the tail pipe, could this just be coincidence or could it be that the oil is too thin and causing it to leak into my combustion chambers. im also not sure if they used synthetic or not; all I know is when i check my oil right after the filled it, i could not even see the liquid on the stick, way different than what it normally looks like.

any thoughts.

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post #2 of 5 Old 09-08-2011, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
flyin8s234
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marquette
Posts: 56
could the problem be from the pcv sucking oil from the valve cover into the manifold?
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post #3 of 5 Old 09-08-2011, 08:10 AM
lucdog
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1980 CJ5 
 
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5w30 is not the correct oil for your older Jeep engine.
I run straight 30w in the summer, and 10w30 in the winter.
Some new (probaley most) use the 5w, but they were designed for it.
If it were me, I'd get it out of there. ASAP

I could go on, but it just p!sses me off, hearing about stuff like this. I be going back to the place and raising he!!.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #4 of 5 Old 09-08-2011, 09:24 AM
Cutlass327
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Even the 4.0L in the newer Jeeps recommended 10w30. I agree with Lucdog, get it out of there, unless you have just had a fresh rebuild with tight clearances.

I also agree with the anger part. If you cannot put the right grade of oil in a vehicle, you have no right doing an oil change. As a mechanic myself, it really pisses me off, because too many times I've had owners/drivers watch me like a hawk because some grease monkey did a piss-poor job on their vehicle last time, or else they nitpick the bill because the got screwed at some other shop for work that wasn't done, shoddy work, etc... It makes me have to work that much harder to show that they needed that repair, I am doing a quality job of the repair, and that they can trust coming to the shop I am at because overall, everyone can be trusted to do a good job. I know every shop has it's "know-it-all" who is usually the lead tech since they can BS the boss that they are a gift, but everyone else ends up covering for him becasue they have to finish his job and correctly repair his misdiagnosis.. Sorry

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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post #5 of 5 Old 09-09-2011, 07:03 AM
bkeese
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Add a can or 2 of STP, all it does is thicken the oil. You can save your oil change. In older engines, especially in the summer I run thicker oil, like 15w40 which is the best oil grade on the planet. I've even been know to run 20w50, but never 5w30, way too thin. I had a friend with a touch of blue smoke and it wouldn't pass emmissions, so we tried an engine treatment. I don't remember which one and it passed.

1985 CJ7 - total customization underway, Sublime green and Plum crazy purple, Ford 9", 258 w/ Holley 475
1985,93 CJ7,YJ - L98 TPI Vette motor, Atlas twin stick, Dana 60s front and rear, Arbs, 39.5 Swampers
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