Bleeding brakes after extended brake line installation - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-13-2003, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
motoxxxguy
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Bleeding brakes after extended brake line installation

I just installed front and rear extended stainless steel brake lines, and need some info on bleeding the system. In my Haynes repair manual, it say I need a tool to hold a part open on the proporting valve in order to bleed the brakes. On every vehicle I have ever done brake work on, I don't recall ever using a tool like this. Is it really necessary? Also, I had intended on making this a one man project, and using a vacuum pump to bleed the system. However, the vacuum will not pull the brake fluid out of the bleeder screw. Could this have something to do with that tool, or is it going to be necessary to have someone pump the pedal for me?

-moto

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post #2 of 6 Old 07-13-2003, 02:05 PM
80cj
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The method I have been using that has worked well for me is: I cut a stick that is long enough to wedge between the steering wheel and the brake pedal when it is fully depressed I think it's about 29 1/2" long. Then I stick a piece of clear plastic tubing over the bleeder screw. Then starting from the farthest wheel cylinder (right rear) I open the bleeder screw and shove the brake pedal down with the stick and wedge the stick against the steering wheel. Then I close the bleed screw and release the pedal. I continue the process until no air bubbles show in the plastic tubing. It's kind of a tedious process because it involves a lot of walking back and forth but I've never had to re-do it. I tried using a hand vacuum pump but it always pulls air bubbles from threads between the bleeder screw and the brake cylinder and gives you a false indication of what you're doing. I've never done anything to the proportioning valve.

Last edited by 80cj; 07-13-2003 at 02:09 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-14-2003, 03:51 AM
Scrambler82
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When doing a bake job by yourself it is hard to pump the brake, hold pressure and then open the bleeder.
There is a tool called a brake vacuum pump, you attach it to the bleeder valve, open the valve and pump the pump. It may take a couple of trys but it works well. Make sure you have enough fluid in the master before starting.

As far as the proporting valve goes, my truck has one and the brake pump worked great, I didn't have to fool with the proporting valve at all.

Luck Dude,

Scrambler82

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post #4 of 6 Old 07-14-2003, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
motoxxxguy
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I think the vacuum pump just doesn't pull enough. Maybe I'll try another kind of vacuum pump. Thanks for the info.

-moto
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-14-2003, 10:01 AM
fuzz401
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advanved auto has these they work good http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...egoryCode=3378

get 2 of them and do 1 axel at a time

1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
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13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-15-2003, 07:04 AM
Scrambler82
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fuzz401,
How does that one work, I don't see any handle to pump.
Tthe one from NAPA has a pump handle like a grease gun and works great. I was afraid I would pump out to much.

LOL,

Scrambler82

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