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Unread 02-05-2010, 01:31 PM   #1
Schne
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Bleeding Brakes

OK, I have read a lot of posts on the forum, and still not getting results. I have an 81 CJ7, I6 with manual brakes. I have gravity bled, vacume bled, and had an assistant pushing the pedal as I bled.

My problem is that I can pump the brakes up when I am done bleeding them, and the pedal will get hard. And then after about 5-10 seconds the pedal will be soft again. What am I doing wrong

Any help in getting my brakes working would be greatly appreciated

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Unread 02-05-2010, 01:41 PM   #2
mastercraftka
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good one i have an 84 cj7 and when i have changed the rear bearings my brakes worked fine for a while and now getting soft, if i pump them up they work but get soft again. Anxious to hear what answers you might get.
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Unread 02-05-2010, 01:42 PM   #3
bigjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schne View Post
OK, I have read a lot of posts on the forum, and still not getting results. I have an 81 CJ7, I6 with manual brakes. I have gravity bled, vacume bled, and had an assistant pushing the pedal as I bled.

My problem is that I can pump the brakes up when I am done bleeding them, and the pedal will get hard. And then after about 5-10 seconds the pedal will be soft again. What am I doing wrong

Any help in getting my brakes working would be greatly appreciated
Is the MC a reman?
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Unread 02-05-2010, 01:44 PM   #4
Coiz
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What caused you to need to bleed the brakes in the first place? Routine maintenance, changed a part?
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Unread 02-05-2010, 03:31 PM   #5
Schne
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Yes it is, I heard there have been problems with remans. This is my second one, I returned the first one. Now the second one is doing the same thing.
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Unread 02-05-2010, 03:33 PM   #6
Schne
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I replaced the master, and the rear wheel cylinders. So I had to bleed the system
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Unread 02-05-2010, 04:29 PM   #7
Coiz
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Did you bench bleed the MC or install it on the Jeep first?
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Unread 02-05-2010, 05:40 PM   #8
Schne
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Bench bled.
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Unread 02-05-2010, 07:05 PM   #9
_Kyle_
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Could be a multitude of things - bad MC, leaky caliper/wheel cylinders/etc. Are you pumping, then cracking the bleeder valve to get the air out? Or just pumping with it open?
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Unread 02-05-2010, 08:14 PM   #10
Schne
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Ok, now I am not seeing any leaks aound the calipers, two new cylinders in rear, no leaks there. And I am having my assistant pump the brake till it gets hard then push down as I crack valve. Then I close the valve before they are bottoming out. Nothing is working
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Unread 02-06-2010, 06:00 AM   #11
danheit
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I know this is a stupid question, but have you checked all of your brake lines to ensure for no bad spots? Even a line that isn't leaking can still have pin holes that will let air in. All of your symptoms sound like air in the lines. Did you change the front calipers? Disconnect them? One thing to keep in mind is that if you have the dual compartment master cylinder, and the front brakes are bled properly, the brakes will be soft at first, as the rears are the first applied, and then will get firm when you hit the front brake portion, which should be good. If you are squishy all the way through, I would pull the MC and take back to wherever you bought it, and swap it out again. The store will have no problem doing it.
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Unread 02-06-2010, 07:06 AM   #12
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by Schne View Post
Ok, now I am not seeing any leaks aound the calipers, two new cylinders in rear, no leaks there. And I am having my assistant pump the brake till it gets hard then push down as I crack valve. Then I close the valve before they are bottoming out. Nothing is working
You don't mention that you are holding the pin in the combination valve steady so it's can't move in or out. The combo valves are nasty to get the air out of and that pin has to be held stable. There is a special tool for this or you need another helper with a large set of pump pliers (channel locks) or vise grips to hold the pin from popping out when you pump up the brake.

The pin is under a rubber grommet on the front of the combo valve.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 04:55 AM   #13
Schne
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Yeah I tried holding the pin as well. I will try again, 15th times the charm right.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 05:04 AM   #14
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by Schne View Post
Yeah I tried holding the pin as well. I will try again, 15th times the charm right.
Ya know, I haven't been able to find a remanned brake master that worked for years now. My last CJ one would fade the pedal down so you really had to watch it at stop lights, the pedal would disappear. BUT, that was better then the previous 5 or 6 that leaked right out of the box and/or dropped the pedal down between uses so it needed a pump like yours is doing.

My current one is a NAPA one and it leaks like a sieve. Out the top and out the back, but it 'does' hold pressure at the pedal. Just found the receipt for that one finally so am going to replace yet another one. I have a 'new' MC on indefinite backorder from NAPA also....
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 02-11-2010, 08:21 PM   #15
Schne
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OK I think I'm just going to go ahead and replace all the brake hoses, and try bleeding again. Don't see any fluid leaking but they look pretty old.
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