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Biggest challenge of your tub-off restoration?
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Biggest challenge of your tub-off restoration?
About to emark on my first tub-off restoration of my 83cj7. I'm not planning on removing the engine or tranny since they run great, but i would like to remove all the old wiring, put in a new painless harness, herc the frame, tub (both sides) and put in a new dash, gauges, seats, etc. So my question to you that have embarked on this adventure, what were the hardest parts of the restoration and what major surprises (if any) did you encounter? I plan on posting losts of pics for help and to keep you all posted. Thanks in advance.
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1983 CJ7 - Project "Surf Jeep Restoration"
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#2 |
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Registered User
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the hardest part = paying for it
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I've done this twice to my 1977 CJ7. The first time, I repaired and reused the tub, which was actually from a 1986 CJy. The first time (done about 10 years ago) was the hardest. The second time, I replaced the steel tub with a fiberglass tub (fenders and windshield frame were already fiberglass). The second time had its own set of problems, mainly fitment issues because the fiberglass tub was dimensioned slightly different than the steel tub.
But the first time was hardest -- primarily becasue every fastener was rusted (or rounded off by some PO). The key to such restorations is to not give yourself deadlines. believe me, everytime you thing you're starting on a 1-hour job, it turns in to an all-day and night job. And if you think you're starting on an all-day job, it turns into a weekend or week-long job. Here's my suggestion, in order to alleviae some of the common prfoblems. (1) Get boxes of ZipLoc baggies of various sizes. Get a pack of peel-and-stick lables that are normally used in a computer printer. Everytime you disassemble something, sip the small parts and the hardware in a baggie and write the name of hte parts on a label and stick the label on the baggie. (2) Keep a rough journal of the sequence in which which you take it apart. Use that journal to write notes to yourself about things you've discovered that you'll have to fix before reassembly. (3) Use a digital camera or cell phone camera to take pictures periodically during disassembly, particularly during the sections when you "scratch your head" figuring it out. Take many more pictures than you think you'll need. Even if you don't need all of them during re-assembly of the vehicle, in the future those pictures will provide you with lots of warm memories of the project, and you'll be able to show them off to your friends. You may also be able to send those helpful pictures to others when they're having trouble with a particular repair. (4) Use new hardware during re-assembly, even if the old stuff looks good. You can always keel decent used hardware for spares. Use Grade 5 hardware as a minimum, with Grade 8 hardware as needed. (5) Use anti-seize compound on all fasteners. You'll thank yourself when you have to work on those areas in the future.
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1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Hands down so far it would be removing the body mounts on the old tub - most rough are the ones on the crossmember (in front of gas tank by tires).
I ended up cutting out that section of the tub , removed the tub, and getting to that part later. I'm pretty much doing the same as you - engine, trans, ect are all staying on. I'm stripping the paint off my frame tomorrow morning.
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2003 TJ RUBICON (CURRENT) 1985 CJ7 I6 2000 TJ I6 1995 YJ 4Cyl 1987 YJ I6 |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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The hardest part in my current ongoing project is the fact that im doing it all outside in the grass with hand tools. Otherwise, just lable or replace everything. Ive found that using a totally stainless bolt kit as well as a painless wiring harness make it easier because you can just break or thro everything away you know you wont need.
-Blake
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2010 Surf Blue 2 door. Islander edition. Prior Jeeps: 94 YJ, 95 YJ, 80 CJ-5 |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I am in the middle of this right now. The hardest part for me is knowing where to stop. I started with a tub swap, with a YJ tub. Once the tub was off, why stop there. I took it down to a rolling chassis repaired frame rust, and ran new brake and fuel lines. From there it went to swapping axles, new suspension, and now a swap from the 258 to a 360 just began. Happily now (a year later) I am looking at putting everything back together now. Hopefully at least this way I know it will last me another 25+ years.
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#7 |
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Web Wheeler
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Completing the resto, before you start another and then block all access to them by a more recent purchase.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Before you start a project, soak the bolts with PB blaster or Liquid Wrench the night before. This will help A LOT with those rusty bolts.
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2005 LJ- Mostly stock/ DD 2000 TJ- Slowly Rebuilding 1976 CJ7- 304/TH400 | 3" suspension | Warn 9.5ti | |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I would have to say the hardest part for me was to like what chadcarter said and that is knowing where to stop.
Definatley lay out a plan before you start as that way you know what you want. I did this but have still changed things midway through because you find something else that needs done. If you do not lay it out ahead of time you will end up spending more money than what you want. Shipping cost can kill you Order things in bulk and pay that $50 one time instead of lots of small orders. Also order from someone out of state to skip the taxes unless they have a deal that helps you save it. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Space. Lots of space. I'm doing mine in a garage, that I share with a few other things. And a nazi ordinance enforcement group, that won't allow you to store things outside in the driveway.
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"In the end...It's all Hack." |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Wow all great information guys thanks. Luckily I have a 2 car garage and am using one bay for the jeep and the other for all the parts/body/etc that I will need to lay out. I will keep you all posted with pics but I am getting a new compressor this weekend and thus the process will begin!!
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1983 CJ7 - Project "Surf Jeep Restoration"
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#12 |
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Registered User
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The Hardest Thing....
For Me...the motivation to finish it. It's a stalled project...
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'81 Scrambler w/ FI 360 AMC, 33x12.50 BFG M/T's, 5" of lift, ARB'd Dana 44's F & R, Dana 300 clocked & twin sticked w/4:1, Warn XD9000i, etc... 2002 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2008 Overland Grand Cherokee, a 1976 CJ-7 in pieces and 3 more off-brand 4x4s............... John N |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Ill have to agree with the not knowing where to stop. I scraped a 77 tub and bought an 82 tub that still needed a lot of sheet metal replaced. I ran into a couple problems.
When I did the sub frame where the body mounts go I didnt weld in any new nuts so after I finished I had to cut holes through the floor to get a nut in there. The second was that I did some work with the tub on its side and didnt pay attention to the tailgate opening and it ended up toeing in at the top of teh tailgate. Dave B
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[url]www.taboocustoms.com[/url] Jeep & 4x4 Products located in west central IL. |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I found the toughest part was knowing when to stop as well. Read my build.... it started out as a simple windshield replacement. Well, one year later, I am replacing or rebuilding every part, every nut, bolt, tube and wire.
I kind of smirk when I hear you dont plan on touching the drivetrain. You will discover that the phrase "I guess while I'm at it, I'll just __________" will come up more than you know. Good luck with the build. Thats an awesome space setup you have too, wish I had had that.
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Andy _______________ 1980 CJ-7 : 151GM : Stock : In process of restoration (always constant, and something to do.) Project "Vote Utilitarian" |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I refer to that as: MAW... Might As Well _______
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"In the end...It's all Hack." |
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