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Unread 09-04-2012, 06:19 PM   #16
82bigdogcj7
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lol anything??

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Unread 09-11-2012, 03:04 PM   #17
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still tryin to confirm which trans I have......

also looking for a glass tub. I've been told it is possible to reinforce the rear of the tub so that you can put a tailgate in a tub that doesn't already have one. sound reasonably feasible? have seen a couple of clean steel tubs, but more glass ones, so that's what I'm sticking with for now.
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Unread 09-12-2012, 10:15 AM   #18
wm69
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bunch of info on GM tranny id here

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...y-vs-late.html


http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-transm...tification.php

You might have some other markings on the transmission you're not seeing.....

As for glass tubs....ick.
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 09-12-2012, 04:54 PM   #19
82bigdogcj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
bunch of info on GM tranny id here

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...y-vs-late.html


http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-transm...tification.php

You might have some other markings on the transmission you're not seeing.....

As for glass tubs....ick.
why ick? where do you live at? I just don't wanna have to deal with the rust of the steel tub. I realize there are some reinforcements that will need to be made to the glass tub but why don't you like them?

the steel tubs I find have always been cheaper because they need to be completely redone. Glass tubs I can find one in pretty good condition for a bit higher price. The steel ones that are still steel and not bondo tend to be higher than a glass tub around me.
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Unread 09-13-2012, 02:53 PM   #20
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why ick? where do you live at? I just don't wanna have to deal with the rust of the steel tub. I realize there are some reinforcements that will need to be made to the glass tub but why don't you like them?

the steel tubs I find have always been cheaper because they need to be completely redone. Glass tubs I can find one in pretty good condition for a bit higher price. The steel ones that are still steel and not bondo tend to be higher than a glass tub around me.

I'm in Arkansas, so not a lot of rust, BUT I don't like glass tubs because they crack/break instead of dent. I did put a fiberglass windshield frame on one of mine and it's been nothing but trouble due to the wiper pivot area not being reinforced and the inserts busting out where the hinges bolt up.

If you're replacing the tub, I'd get a good steel tub and just rustproof the crap out of it. That said, if you want fiberglass, it is your Jeep, and lots of people are happy with glass tubs. Just not my cup of tea.
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 09-13-2012, 03:12 PM   #21
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This is looking like a fun and challenging build thread so far

Double check your leaf springs and shackles against stock measurements because I bet you already have a spring lift on the old chassis given the size of the tires.
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Unread 09-15-2012, 08:45 PM   #22
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I'm in Arkansas, so not a lot of rust, BUT I don't like glass tubs because they crack/break instead of dent. I did put a fiberglass windshield frame on one of mine and it's been nothing but trouble due to the wiper pivot area not being reinforced and the inserts busting out where the hinges bolt up.

If you're replacing the tub, I'd get a good steel tub and just rustproof the crap out of it. That said, if you want fiberglass, it is your Jeep, and lots of people are happy with glass tubs. Just not my cup of tea.
ok yea I can understand that from your perspective. I'm not saying that fiberglass is the strongest thing out there, and if I were ever to get a fiberglass windshield frame I'd definitely reinforce it before installing it.

The thing is, for all the complaining you probably see about the "rust belt" up here, it really does happen, and it's something that I don't want to happen again. I've found 1 steel body in 6 months that is for sale but is still $100 more than the fiberglass body I'm looking at. The glass body and the steel body are both in good shape. Steel one was re-done to some degree. I'd definitely be reinforcing the glass tub in certain key spots if I did get one.
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Unread 09-15-2012, 08:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Dadamsnv View Post
This is looking like a fun and challenging build thread so far

Double check your leaf springs and shackles against stock measurements because I bet you already have a spring lift on the old chassis given the size of the tires.
Thanks! it's intense for sure. Awesome. I was just wondering whether I might already had a suspension lift. Those body mount bushings were rubber and just crumpled right off when I uninstalled them. They didn't look that big. I say that because I was thinking it had a body lift.
A spring lift is a possibility tho. I've been told my shackles look home made. I didn't do them, so I guess the shackles could be an add on and the springs could be lifted a bit. Would I measure a difference in length and height vs stock springs?
How much do you think it's lifted to accomodate the tires?
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Unread 09-15-2012, 08:54 PM   #24
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I've read a bit on here about rust treatment and different chemicals, so I just wanna throw this out there and see what the opinions are. I've read about the electrolysis process. Pretty cool, but takes a little while, and I will never have anything big enough to soak my axles in. I was reading about brushing or spraying on phosphoric or muriatic acid on the axles and letting it sit for 15 min I believe, then washing the acid off with soap and water. I realize that stuff is potent. Eye protection, gloves, the works I know. I'm wondering if I need to let it sit for longer or if it will eat too much into the metal at that point?
After that I was going to sand it down a bit, use some surface cleaner on it, and then some self priming vht chassis paint. Sound ok?
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Unread 09-16-2012, 01:45 AM   #25
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I've just been wire wheeling or sand blasting to bare metal, cleaning with brake clean after that, then painting with VHT chassis and rollbar paint. I really dig the VHT. It's great stuff
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Unread 09-16-2012, 01:46 AM   #26
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How long are your shackles eye to eye?
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Unread 09-16-2012, 07:55 AM   #27
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You really have a lot of work ahead of you *and* 100X if you keep most any part of the body.

I can confidently say you will not keep rust away with any used tub, there will be rust between every panel flange on the tub and it will eventually find a way back through the paint. So I understand using a glass tub and the point about glass cracking is true, but do you plan to beat the Jeep wheeling it, or, plan on trail riding and less abusive use?

A Wrangler tub should be pretty easy to find and repairing the rust will get you much farther ahead in less time with a reasonable cost. If you budget allows, a new steel or glass tub would be worth it in my opinion.

Take some pictures of the trans now that it is out....best of luck to you
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Unread 09-16-2012, 04:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv View Post
I've just been wire wheeling or sand blasting to bare metal, cleaning with brake clean after that, then painting with VHT chassis and rollbar paint. I really dig the VHT. It's great stuff
yea I just found out about the VHT a few weeks ago, but I like it. seems to be good stuff. I'm trying to avoid wire wheeling my axles and differential cause that'd take way longer than spraying it down with some strong chemicals.

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How long are your shackles eye to eye?
I wont be near the jeep for about a week unfortunately with my class load so I can't measure them right now. I'm trying to work on it on Fridays. I will say that my shackles are not stock. They seem almost homemade.



here are the front springs, not sure if anyone thinks I have a suspension lift. I think I must have one. body mount bushings weren't big when I took them off.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 04:21 PM   #29
82bigdogcj7
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Originally Posted by 243 View Post
You really have a lot of work ahead of you *and* 100X if you keep most any part of the body.

I can confidently say you will not keep rust away with any used tub, there will be rust between every panel flange on the tub and it will eventually find a way back through the paint. So I understand using a glass tub and the point about glass cracking is true, but do you plan to beat the Jeep wheeling it, or, plan on trail riding and less abusive use?

A Wrangler tub should be pretty easy to find and repairing the rust will get you much farther ahead in less time with a reasonable cost. If you budget allows, a new steel or glass tub would be worth it in my opinion.

Take some pictures of the trans now that it is out....best of luck to you
Here are some pics of the steel tub I'm sort of looking at. yea I know keeping rust away can be a pain. That's why I wanted a glass tub from the beginning. But this tub seems to be in pretty good shape.
Wrangler tubs are certainly locatable, but it will also be a bit different and require some mods I don't want to have to do and have features I wont like.
Ex. Swing open tailgate, wrong location fuel fill, relocate body mounts etc.

I've been looking at used and pre-cut glass tubs rather than new ones. I don't want a new one really. More money and more work to make it ready.
Yea I'm definitely going to take a few pics of the trans when I get over to it at the end of the week.

And I 100% intend on NOT beating it up. I want to keep it in good shape once I get it good shape. Streeting it, with a little bit of trail time maybe.
right-rear.jpg   right-side.jpg   side.jpg   front-interior.jpg   interior-side.jpg  

rearview.jpg  
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Unread 09-16-2012, 04:24 PM   #30
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all the white in 3rd pic from top is dirt, nothing bad.
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