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Ring & Pinion's, Lockers, 4340 Axles, Install Kits, Ba~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits

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Unread 08-28-2012, 08:53 PM   #1
82bigdogcj7
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BIG PROJECT!! '82 CJ7 Ltd Ground Up Build!

Hey all, joined on here a bit over a month ago searching for advice and parts as well as to appreciate other work done on cj's.
figured i might as well post what I've torn down so far. dont have the very begining pics but close enough.

I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but I will certainly need help and suggestions along the way.

This was bought from a friend who had swapped out the original 258 (4.2) engine and 4 or 5? speed t5 trans for a rebuilt AMC 360 bored .030 over and THM400; I haven't been able to positively identify the trans yet. Still hoping it could be a 4l60 or maybe even a 4l60e?? so that it would be a 4 spd. He told me he thought it had o.d. but wasn't sure. It was running when I bought it, but those tubs weren't galvanized, and being so, I had a better view of the road through the floor than the windshield.

Still need to....
Recoat the new (rebuilt) frame I bought with some VHT chassis paint. Already looks good, but wouldnt hurt to have another coat.
Swap axles from old frame to new one.
Start re-hooking everything up.

Also looking for helpful opinons and advice on what kind of lift to run. Tires are 33x12.5x15, and I think it may have had a 1" body lift before, but not sure since the rubber mounts were all cracked.

Was originally considering a 2" body lift, since it's cheaper and wont mess my suspension up........ but then heard about all the problems I can get with that like alignment issues, so I'm considering a suspension lift.
Just afraid of having too steep of an angle between rear driveshaft and tcase; would a double cardan joint be necessary?

Here's my thread on gl4x4.com
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=242337

Sorry for all the blah.
Here it is


Just after it began. (top, hood, and fenders off)













dash and windshield frame were completely toast as you can see. rusted out real badly.










Last edited by 82bigdogcj7; 08-31-2012 at 08:42 PM..
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Unread 08-28-2012, 08:59 PM   #2
82bigdogcj7
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trans housing/t case















I've read a lot of different and conflicting info on what trans this could be. here's just a few links. still confuses me. could be a 4l60 (same as 700r4 I think?), 4l60e, or just a thm 400? any help on whether I may have overdrive would be great.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...n/viewall.html
http://www.fortdodgetransmission.com...tification-gm/

here's what trans tag says
div of gm corp
Seial #78-JC- 4411
3195528
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Unread 08-29-2012, 08:25 AM   #3
82bigdogcj7
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Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera when I pulled the engine/trans. That was exciting for me, as I've never done that before. Other than that I pulled the driveshafts and exhaust pipes but with no camera I don't remember what it looked like anymore.

Brought a camera for this disassembling. Goodbye shocks & mounts, trans skid plate, sway bar, rear shocks, motor mounts, and everything else!

Few pics here. Looks so bare with no motor. especially so without the trans skid plate.





















Next step are getting the axles off, and then trying finding something big enough to soak the axles in so I can try some electrolytic removal of rust. Any advice on that?

Still looking for suggestions on lifts, specifically with what types of joint I should be using for a small spring lift to keep my t case to axle driveshaft angle as small as possible. Is a double cardan joint what I'm looking for??

This is a few steps beyond my typical project
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Unread 08-29-2012, 08:32 AM   #4
82bigdogcj7
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and here's the new (repaired) frame I got.

here's a few pics. I think it looks great.

the person I bought it from repaired the rear shackle section with steel box tubing measuring 3x3x3/16" and now it's definitely stronger than it was from the factory.

planning on cleanin it off a bit (it was sitting for a while), and spraying it with 2-3 coats of VHT chassis and rollbar paint.














Last edited by 82bigdogcj7; 09-04-2012 at 06:45 PM..
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Unread 08-29-2012, 08:35 PM   #5
82bigdogcj7
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lol feel free to not make me feel like this is a monologue......
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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:53 AM   #6
82bigdogcj7
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so....... any ideas on the trans??

or suggestions on how to do that lift properly? (new rear driveshaft, shim to change pinion angle, just forget it and do a 2" body lift......??)
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Unread 08-30-2012, 09:55 AM   #7
wm69
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Wow, you had your work cut out for you when that started.

No idea on the transmission, but with a 2 or 2.5 inch suspension lift you won't have any issues with driveshaft angle. I would stay away from shackle lift and get new springs. Yeah, it's more expensive, but it's the only way to do it right.

Looking good so far!
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 08-30-2012, 11:45 AM   #8
Renegade82
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Wow!!, Wow! Man looks like you got your work cut out fer ya. I'm surprised the frame wasn't in worse shape after seeing the body.
Sorry, can't help you on the tranny. I'd stay away from a 2" body lift unless it's going to be a show Jeep. They do make new poly body mounts with 1" of lift built in to them. I have a set to use on my build. Daystar makes them. A suspension lift is the better way to go. If you can do it all with springs that's good but it can be pricey for quality springs. Shackles tend to get a bad rap, which isn't deserved when done right and are a great way to get another inch or so of lift. Caster and driveline angles can be corrected with shims at the spring plates.
You didn't mention how the Jeep will be used but with 33" tires you'll need at least 3 1/2" of lift.

My best friends during my build has been a sandblaster and a small blast cabinet. Looks like one could help you tremendously.
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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:22 PM   #9
82bigdogcj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
Wow, you had your work cut out for you when that started.

No idea on the transmission, but with a 2 or 2.5 inch suspension lift you won't have any issues with driveshaft angle. I would stay away from shackle lift and get new springs. Yeah, it's more expensive, but it's the only way to do it right.

Looking good so far!
haha yea it was a real pain. i learned how to cut bolts at least. not a single body mount on this jeep came out without some combo of a reciprocating saw, grinding wheel and torch lol. thanks though, it has been a lot of work with a lot more to go.

ok yea I wasn't planning on a shackle lift, just a 2" suspension lift. new shocks as well.

here are the shots I have of my rear driveshafts angle. Not the greatest cause I wasn't trying to capture the angle of it, but rather the routing of the fuel & brake lines at the time. of course i forgot my camera the day I was removing my driveshafts and exhaust.

so this is the angle before I add any more of an angle between the the case and axle. do you not think this angle is getting close to pushing the limits of how steep of an angle i should run? let alone the fact that I still
have to put on a 2" lift which will certainly not make that angle any smaller.

unreasonable? or at least where my u joints wouldn't last at all? will a new driveshaft, such as one with a double-cardan joint be necessary for this to work?

I really wont be offroading this much, so if I don't need the extra flex that a suspension lift would give me..... any reason to really to a spring lift?





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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:57 PM   #10
82bigdogcj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Wow!!, Wow! Man looks like you got your work cut out fer ya. I'm surprised the frame wasn't in worse shape after seeing the body.
Sorry, can't help you on the tranny. I'd stay away from a 2" body lift unless it's going to be a show Jeep. They do make new poly body mounts with 1" of lift built in to them. I have a set to use on my build. Daystar makes them. A suspension lift is the better way to go. If you can do it all with springs that's good but it can be pricey for quality springs. Shackles tend to get a bad rap, which isn't deserved when done right and are a great way to get another inch or so of lift. Caster and driveline angles can be corrected with shims at the spring plates.
You didn't mention how the Jeep will be used but with 33" tires you'll need at least 3 1/2" of lift.

My best friends during my build has been a sandblaster and a small blast cabinet. Looks like one could help you tremendously.
yea the frame was in pretty decent shape considering the body. that new frame I got is awesome though. I do have a small blasting cabinet I'll be able to use for things things like the shock mounts, any skid plates, and any other stuff I can think of to throw in there.

I have been checkin out the polyurethane body mount blocks and that is definitely the route I would go if I take that path. I have definitely been looking into the effects of pinion angles shims can have. What does anyone think about swapping a cv driveshaft with say a double cardan joint on it? that would help right?

Yea that's another thing. The jeep won't be heavily offroaded. Quite minor actually compared to what many on this forum do. Another reason why I was leaning toward a body lift; I don't really need any extra flex like a suspension lift would give me.

I do have 33's....... but when I took the body mounts and stuff off... it didn't seem like it had much of a body lift. Obviously it was pretty well rotted away..... but still didn't seem like more than an inch. Pretty sure it doesn't have a suspension lift either...... I don't think it really needs 3" of lift to fit 33s.
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Unread 08-30-2012, 08:08 PM   #11
82bigdogcj7
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check this out, it helps, but I might be overthinking it so it's also sorta confusing. too bad they don't show 33's. if with a 2" lift, running 34's requires a 1" lift (in addition to the 2" lift)? and major body trimming, but 32's require a 1" lift (if you already have a 2" lift??). Well maybe I'm wrong... I'm just pretty sure I didn't have any more than an inch of body lift, and I didn't think I had any suspension or shackle lift. otherwise I wouldn't be trying to get more lift lol.

http://image.jpmagazine.com/f/917855..._fitt_03_z.jpg

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Unread 08-31-2012, 08:38 AM   #12
wm69
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OK, now that angle looks a little more severe. I didn't think about how long that automatic probably is.

I dunno what your best option would be as far as correcting the driveshaft angle.
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 08-31-2012, 08:41 PM   #13
82bigdogcj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
OK, now that angle looks a little more severe. I didn't think about how long that automatic probably is.

I dunno what your best option would be as far as correcting the driveshaft angle.
yea the tranny is pretty long. my mechanic says that's about as big of an angle as I could afford to run on the jeep without it vibrating during driving.

So here are my options:
1. Get a spring lift, but also get some axle shims. These come I believe in anywhere from a 1-6 degree lift amount, so that would pretty much fix the angle.

2. Get a cv driveshaft to replace my u joint driveshaft.

3. Get a 2" body lift, since it wont be heavily offroaded and I don't need the extra flex of a suspension lift, and just get extended brake and fuel lines, as well as a new steering shaft like I planned on already.

I may get axle shims even if I don't get a spring lift, just to lessen that angle a bit. Any thoughts?
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Unread 09-01-2012, 03:41 AM   #14
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Ive also got a 82 CJ7, 360/TH400/D30, while the tranny looks similar I noticed a cpl of differences, The bellhousing flange that bolts to the engine looks thicker on yours and my vacuum modulator comes straight out the side while yours looks to be angled up. to my knowledge jeep only used TH400's(early) or Torqueflites(later) for their automatic applications. could there be an adapter hiding in there? try this link and see if it helps, good luck.....OCG

http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...identification
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Unread 09-02-2012, 05:02 PM   #15
82bigdogcj7
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Originally Posted by Oldcraneguy View Post
Ive also got a 82 CJ7, 360/TH400/D30, while the tranny looks similar I noticed a cpl of differences, The bellhousing flange that bolts to the engine looks thicker on yours and my vacuum modulator comes straight out the side while yours looks to be angled up. to my knowledge jeep only used TH400's(early) or Torqueflites(later) for their automatic applications. could there be an adapter hiding in there? try this link and see if it helps, good luck.....OCG

http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...identification

I think ya meant d300, but yea. k you could be right on when jeep used th400's in jeeps. what's the difference between a th400 and a torqueflight?

the thing is, when jeep did or didn't install these trannies is kinda irrelevant. the trans and engine are not stock in this jeep. v8's, and consequently th400's were not installed in jeeps after '81. I'm sure you know this. btw, is yours a base model?
I'm not sure what this trans came out of. It could have been taken off a mid 90's half ton pickup, I'm not sure. So when they were or weren't installed doesn't matter much since this isn't a factory installation. It helps to know that the bellhousing flange looks thicker on mine than yours. I've got to keep going with that and hope it will lead somewhere.

Here are a few different charts and a link identifying a few of these trannies by date of use and specs and another including non-gm trannies with a side shot of them. the links ar


http://www.fortdodgetransmission.com...tification-gm/

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...tification.asp

1 Aluminum Powerglide 14 bolts
2 TH200 Metric 11 bolts
3 TH350 13 bolts
4 TH400 13 bolts
5 TH200-4R 16 bolts
6 TH700-R4, 4L60, 4L60E 16 bolts
7 4L80E 17 bolts
pan_id.jpg   tranny_dimensions.jpg   transid.gif   transidchart.jpg  
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