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ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wWarn, Smitybilt, Engo, Rugged Ridge Winches at CCORRough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:17 PM   #16
TRUVOL
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Mine says 60 ft. Lbs

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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:25 PM   #17
SamanthaRae
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The whole tie rod is spinning before I even get to 3p ft lbs.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:37 PM   #18
TRUVOL
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Same here. Don't know how I'm gonna torque it.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:42 PM   #19
TRUVOL
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I'm just replacing that one with another Moog tre
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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:46 PM   #20
Spieg8
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I believe the BD tie rods come with a wrench flat on the tube to hold it in place while you torque down the jam nut. If not, try a pipe wrench to hold it.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #21
TRUVOL
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Samantha how did the torque on your other ones do?
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Unread 08-28-2013, 02:37 PM   #22
SamanthaRae
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Neither tie rod end that went to the knuckle would torque. On the drag link they torqued fine. So I just put washers under the nut on the tie rod ends and got the cotter pin in to get it home.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 02:51 PM   #23
TRUVOL
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Keep me updated
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Unread 08-28-2013, 02:57 PM   #24
SamanthaRae
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I'm not sure what to do next. I read some things online that some people just run them with washers in it. Not sure what to do?
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Unread 08-28-2013, 07:10 PM   #25
TRUVOL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamanthaRae View Post
I'm not sure what to do next. I read some things online that some people just run them with washers in it. Not sure what to do?
Hey Samantha Just changed my one tie rod that came with the kit. I got another left hand thread Moog. Torqued to 40 ft lbs. Factory. The tie rod that comes in the kit is ****.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 10:34 PM   #26
titomars
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I have the same kit. I never even tried the supplied rod end. I bought the 3 Moog ends I needed and the one end I went to a heim joint end. I run an SOA so I did a modified drag link flip which required something other than a standard TRE on the knuckle side. The Moog's all fit fine on mine. here is a trick for tightening a spinning TRE. take a drift and insert into the cotter pin hole and then use an open end wrench and tighten till it hits the drift. Usually the 1/8 turn is enough pressure to hold the stud to finish tightening the nut. another method is to use a jam nut instead of the castle nut to tighten also using the drift to hold the stud but with a jamb nut you won't get the interference of the slots against the drift pin. torque it down then remove the jam nut and install the castle nut.
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I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
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**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
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1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 08-29-2013, 12:18 AM   #27
TRUVOL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRUVOL View Post

Hey Samantha Just changed my one tie rod that came with the kit. I got another left hand thread Moog. Torqued to 40 ft lbs. Factory. The tie rod that comes in the kit is ****.
Get it aligned in the morning
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Unread 08-29-2013, 12:19 AM   #28
TRUVOL
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Happy happy happy
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