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post #1 of 28 Old 08-27-2013, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
TRUVOL
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big daddy tie rod and drag link

I'm installing this and the manual tells me to torque to 60 ft lbs. Well I have to cotter key the tie rod ends. My problem is when I start to torque the rod ends on the steering knuckle the cotter key hole goes beyond the castle nut. I can stick washers under the nut but has any else had to do this with theirs.

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post #2 of 28 Old 08-27-2013, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Its the only the tie rod that comes with the kit
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post #3 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 06:19 AM
Spieg8
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Something doesn't sound right... did you get the kit for a Dana 30? How much beyond the cotter pin hole? Got any pictures? Have you "flipped" the tie rod so it mounts to the top of the knuckle, or is it mounted below like normal? Do you have the same problem with all 4 of the TRE's or just one? I wouldn't use a washer, maybe a taller castle nut, but not a washer.
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post #4 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 06:37 AM
gosupes
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A washer is fine to use in a situation like this.

1986 CJ7, 4.2 w/4.0 head, TFI-HEI hybrid ignition, Clifford manifold w/Holley 390 w/cold air intake, OBA, 4.5" lift, Woody CV shaft and Tattons in front, 4.10 gears - lunchbox in front, Truetrac in the back, twin-sticked, blower upgrade for running topless, trying to keep it simple.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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post #5 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 07:09 AM
Redmanchew
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used a washer on one of mine

1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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post #6 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
TRUVOL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Something doesn't sound right... did you get the kit for a Dana 30? How much beyond the cotter pin hole? Got any pictures? Have you "flipped" the tie rod so it mounts to the top of the knuckle, or is it mounted below like normal? Do you have the same problem with all 4 of the TRE's or just one? I wouldn't use a washer, maybe a taller castle nut, but not a washer.
I didn't flip it. Its just the one tie rod end. Its for a wide track cj7.
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post #7 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
TRUVOL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Something doesn't sound right... did you get the kit for a Dana 30? How much beyond the cotter pin hole? Got any pictures? Have you "flipped" the tie rod so it mounts to the top of the knuckle, or is it mounted below like normal? Do you have the same problem with all 4 of the TRE's or just one? I wouldn't use a washer, maybe a taller castle nut, but not a washer.
I didn't flip it. Its just the one tie rod end. Its for a wide track cj7. My other question is does it matter which tre goes to the drivers or passenger side? I have 1 right hand threads going to the drivers side. 2 left hand going to the passenger side. Pitman arm tre is right hand thread.
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post #8 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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The tre I'm having trouble with is the only one that's not a Moog.
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post #9 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
TRUVOL
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its not even torqued yet.
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post #10 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
TRUVOL
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my steering was off so i centered the gearbox. so i have the same amount of throw to the left as i do the right. reattached the steering shaft. configured the tie rods but now running into this issue. im thinking this tre is just taller than the moog ones.
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post #11 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 11:55 AM
Spieg8
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Definitely something funky with that one TRE, or it's not made for this size knuckle. I'd get another one that fits better. Some others said they've used a washer and maybe that's okay, but I'd get one that fits.
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post #12 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 12:38 PM
SamanthaRae
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I am having the same problem on my comanche! Is the knuckle supposed to be tapered?
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post #13 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 01:15 PM
Spieg8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamanthaRae View Post
I am having the same problem on my comanche! Is the knuckle supposed to be tapered?
Not sure about a Comanche... on a W/T CJ, the holes are tapered (sort of cone shaped), but the arm is flat.
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post #14 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 01:41 PM
SamanthaRae
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I just looked it up online and it says (for a comanche at least) that the tie rod ends to steering knuckles get torqued to 35ft lbs. does that seem right?
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post #15 of 28 Old 08-28-2013, 02:01 PM
SamanthaRae
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Just kidding. The nut bottomed out on the tie rod before it was even torqued.
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