Beware Omix-ada aluminum valve covers - JeepForum.com
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 22 Old 08-15-2017, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
Renegade82
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 5,062
Garage
Beware Omix-ada aluminum valve covers

A word of caution for those of you in the market for a new cast aluminum valve cover. Do not buy anone Omix-ada brand one, at least not without a backup cover ready to go or time to find .
I purchased a blue cast aluminum cover Omix#17401.11 that they claim will fit the following as a "Direct OE Replacement".
1981-1983 Jeep CJ5
1981-1986 Jeep CJ7
1981-1986 Jeep CJ8 (Scrambler)
1987 Jeep Wrangler
I got it from Morris 4x4, which is the first time I ever bought anything from them, $150 +free shipping. I started the swap on a Friday night, figuring I could button it up on Saturday, which included replacing a rocker arm set to quiet a loose pair.

At first glance it looked pretty good, but when I started the swap and went to clean the new one, I found chipping edges of paint inside and out. As well as some casting slag and two tiny webs from the pour. So not a big deal, I cleaned it all out and sprayed it clean. After all, it was from Omix. Then I discovered where some of the cleaner (CRC Electra-Clean) bled out the topside holes and left discolored streaks in it. It's still intact, it didn't soften it or bubble it, just stained it. I thought it was a baked on paint like powder coat. So I'm even more disappointed but it's still a minor thing (but worth warning you off).

Now it's time to dry fit the cover. Starting with the rear bolt first since it's the most difficult to access and then the rest, I discovered 2 of the bolt holes didn't line up with the head. Now that's a major problem! But again, it is from Omix! I guess some hole grinding is in the future, but I'm sure as h ell gonna let them know my opinion of it.

So I sent an email back to the salesman I ordered it from letting him know my disappointment in the product they sell. Adding that it wasn't personal and I wasn't venting AT him, just letting them know in general about it's poor quality. He fowarded the email to a lady at customer care whom then called me om Tuesday and said she'd contact the manf. to make sure that would be under warranty (like there should be any doubt) for a replacement. She also wanted some pics, which I sent to her. The manf. responded to her and wanted some measurements of how much they were off (they had the pics). This is where I knew they were clueless! She called again and I told her there was no way I could accurately give her those, plus they should already have the correct dimensions since they make this product to sell and fit these engines. So she passed that on to them.

So now a guy from Omix called me. I told him I was not a machine shop with the tools needed to supply that and what did it matter, the holes were off. When I mentioned looking at the drawings he said we don't have them or a 258 head. They get these from several sources. And did I mention that the box had a tiny "Made in Tiawan" sticker on it? He said the whole lot could be off so he didn't want to give me another one of the same. I gave him a date from the box that he said he could tell what lot they were. I said just send me another one, if it's off too then I'll just oblong the holes to work. He said he didn't recommend that. So he said he'd go look and call me back.

He didn't call back so the next day I called him. He said all the ones they have are from the same lot so he didn't want to take that chance. He would tell Morris to refund my money. She called me shortly after and said she issued a credit back to me. I said what about an RMA number to return this one, and I'm not paying for it. She said to keep the cover. So for my troubles I got a new filler cap from it, but the grommets for the other holes didn't fit.



The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Renegade82 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 Old 08-16-2017, 06:50 AM
Matt1981CJ7
Web Wheeler
 
Matt1981CJ7's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert
Posts: 18,768
Typical Omix crap. Good on Morris for handling it well.

There should be no problem with reaming out a couple of holes, unless they are way off. Perhaps you can use a small washer on those holes to prevent warping.

Don't over-torque the bolts. 1/4 turn past hand tight is usually good enough.

Good luck,

Matt


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Matt1981CJ7 is offline  
post #3 of 22 Old 08-16-2017, 10:10 AM
JoonHoss
Registered User
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 7,603
IIRC, I actually opened up ALL the holes on my valve cover when I swapped it out. It made installation much easier. I also ended up using the spanner type valve cover hold downs w/ bolts (that put pressure further done the cover, an inch or so away on either side, as opposed to only on the bolt hole)

I went with a stud on the back bolt (firewall) partially because it was much easier to install, and partially because that was hole for some reason was tapped all the way to the water jacket, so a stud let me seal it.

Hoss

"Gimme three gallons of low lead; two hot dogs and a strawberry soda..."JGW
JoonHoss is online now  
 
post #4 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
Renegade82
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 5,062
Garage
Heres a shot of the holes that are off. You can also see in the one pic the stained paint streaks.
Attached Images
   

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Renegade82 is offline  
post #5 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 09:51 AM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 16,739
Looks like the casting might be OK but the holes were not centered on the flat.

Bummer.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John Strenk is offline  
post #6 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 10:02 AM
CrashOdle
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Simi Valley
Posts: 361
Beware of OMIX-ADA or Crown ANYTHING. That is the moto I live by and it has served me well.

81 CJ7 258 Howell TBI/Team Rushed/T19/Scout Dana 300/Dana 44/locked Dana 30/4.10s/rolling 33" KM2's
CrashOdle is offline  
post #7 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 10:52 AM
JoonHoss
Registered User
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 7,603
At a total cost of free+ some elbow grease, I think you'll come out ok.

Hoss

"Gimme three gallons of low lead; two hot dogs and a strawberry soda..."JGW
JoonHoss is online now  
post #8 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 11:45 AM
258
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 1,677
Cj

This is why I would never buy a PAINTED cover.

I have the same cover and it has been fine for 13 years. Maybe quality control has suffered since (changing of the times) but mine is a nice, solid, well made piece. I too remember slightly enlarging some of the holes and tapping them all to be the same size as the largest on the head already; which made removing for future repairs easier. I also used Allen Head bolts for easier grip on the bolts.

FYI, Taiwan doesn't necessarily make it a bad product. Many USA companies have their main corporations is various countries. It's the quality control that needs to be addressed from that manufacturer and the product lot. I know Harley Davidson; which is "AMERICAN MADE", has a main corporate headquarters in Korea. This is why you see "Made in Korea" inside their high end leather clothing. Korea is a main Import/Exporter of high end leathers from Italy, India and others.

In other words, these were never really a direct fit. The hole pattern was probably obtained from the cheap plastic valve covers that were installed from factory production. Those flexed and or warped. Why plastic, I could not answer that. Jeep seemed to cut corners in many areas that could have made these vehicles much easier on the repair bucket list.

FOOTNOTE: DO NOT USED THE SUPPLIED CORK GASKET. Get the FELPRO Rubber Composite one. The cork tends to squeeze out, making the cork thinner in certain areas if you over tighten it.
258 is online now  
post #9 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 08:29 PM
skratch48
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 46
I've had the same experience with the off shore Omix parts. I ordered a set of steps for a 58 cj5, the ad said bolt on fit. They were right, after much alterations they bolted right on.

I later learned the steps were meant to be a universal fit for several earlier Jeeps but only after much alterations,
but the ad was right, when I finally got them to fit they were " bolt on ".
skratch48 is offline  
post #10 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
Renegade82
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 5,062
Garage
I always try to steer clear of omix stuff, even crown for that matter. But as you guys know, sometimes it's your only choice. That was the case with this cover. My current one that I've had for decades is a Clifford black cast aluminum but it has a lip around most of it's mounting flange. I was looking for a flat bottom cover for more mating surface and the blue color was an added plus, in my case.

So yes, I got a free cover that I can modify to make work. But I think I'll repaint it first and use it on my next engine. And I always use the FelPro laminated one but it needed trimmed to fit around the lip in some places so it could lie flat. That's why I wanted a flat bottom cover.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Renegade82 is offline  
post #11 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 11:25 AM
Matt1981CJ7
Web Wheeler
 
Matt1981CJ7's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert
Posts: 18,768
You're replacing a Clifford cover with a POS Omix cover? Hmm.

Is there anything wrong with the Clifford? I've seen a lot of 258s with them, and they appear to be a quality product, like most Clifford stuff.

Matt


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Matt1981CJ7 is offline  
post #12 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
Renegade82
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 5,062
Garage
No, theres nothing wrong with it except, it's got a partial lip around 3/4 of it and the gaskets don't fit lengthwise. You have to trim the ends in spots as well as the 3 bumps on the straight side, so that the gasket will lie flat. I don't know if they still make them like that or not, as I bought mine in the mid 80's.
It's back on the Jeep, for the second time in as many weeks! I tried the gasket dry, as some guys have had success like that (as per FelPro instr.) I did it first trimmed to the cover, then bought another and ground down the lip on the cover where needed. Neither was leak free. So I went back to the 'ol tried and (mostly) true combo, gasket and rtv silicone.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Renegade82 is offline  
post #13 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 05:34 PM
Matt1981CJ7
Web Wheeler
 
Matt1981CJ7's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert
Posts: 18,768
You might try The Right Stuff, with no other gasket. I had good luck with it on my 258.

Matt


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Matt1981CJ7 is offline  
post #14 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
Renegade82
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown
Posts: 5,062
Garage
Tried that route last year. Wouldn't recommend that stuff to anyone unless it's permanent. Without a gasket you can't get it even and it has to be put on a little thicker than a gasket in order to take up the space before the bolts bottom out. So that's hit or miss. But the worst part is if it needs to be removed! I truly was concerned that I may break the cast aluminum while prying the cover off. That stuff is like super glue on steroids. I had to use multiple pry bars to get that cover back off.

The even spacing issue is why I looked into the FelPro PermaDry Blue gasket. It has metal spacers molded in at the bolt holes. Unfortunately those are for Wrangler era inlines that have a different head with bolt spacing like the 4.0 . FelPro list's them for 86 (258's) but they must have meant late 86 which would have been the first generation of Chryslers migration towards the 4.0 with the version they put in the first Wrangler models that year.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Renegade82 is offline  
post #15 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 07:03 PM
258
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 1,677
Renegade82,

The one you want is the "Fel-Pro VS 50244 R". It is NOT the blue one but it is a rubber composite material that has the metal within. I just bought one for next month's project.
258 is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome