best way to ground with fiberglass tub - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > best way to ground with fiberglass tub

XHD Heavy-Duty Hood Latches for JK and TJ available at OcoRough Country Lift Kits and Parts!Clayton Off Road WJ Long Arm Kits!

Reply
Unread 05-18-2010, 09:59 AM   #1
eagleCJ7
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 73
best way to ground with fiberglass tub

I'm having some issues with my electrical systems. I think most arise from poor grounding because of the glass tub. So here is a question for all you glass tub owners. What is the best method for grounding when you have a glass tub? and what have you done. Pictures would certainly help if you have them. I tend to be a visual guy. Thanks in advance.

eagleCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2010, 10:03 AM   #2
JoonHoss
Registered User
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 6,418
my '57 had a fiberglass front clip, and everything was ran to a dedicated common-ground, which was run to the frame. I don't think there's much else that can be done. you need a dedicated ground (perhaps even a busbar-type terminal?)

Hoss
__________________
Quote:
It's hard to say no to yoo-hoo, the name literally beckons...

Don't mind me, I'm just another FNG around here...
JoonHoss is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2010, 10:13 AM   #3
Mike Romain
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 13,117
I ran a battery cable over to a long bolt by the fuse panel back where I just added soldered and heat shrinked loop connectors to for each ground wire. On my last harness I used a bolt with those screw plug buss terminals on it and had some corrosion issues with the open end of the copper wires. I used lots of dielectric grease which seemed to stop the issues.

I ran a dedicated 10 gauge wire inside each harness piece to pick up the components as they came along. My new harness from Centech also has this dedicated ground for the back and dash, but not for the front clip so I just used the 10 ga wire in that piece.

Here is my old one:
__________________
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
Mike Romain is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2010, 11:26 AM   #4
Exposed
Senior Member
 
Exposed's Avatar
1981 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Katy, Texas 77493, Katy, Texas
Posts: 587
I have about 95% of the engine compartment done on mine. I will take some pictures this evening on how I ran the grounds.... I used this stud type ground block to go through the firewall. Everything in the harness was tied to a 10 gauge ground feed inside to the block. Firewall side ties to the negative on the battery. This way did not have to run a large ground wire from battery to to inside. Also added one on the fender to feed grounds to everything on the engine side. Just like Mike said, ground header feed to every component.


__________________
****************************
Calvin
Follow My CJ5 Build
81 CJ5, Ford 331 EFI, AX15, D-300, Dana 44 (Detroit Locker)....

When there are more people voting for a living than working for a living,
We are DONE as a Country!!!!!!

Newly Acquired 2014 Grand Cherokee Summit
****************************
Exposed is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2010, 11:33 AM   #5
Dudman5703
Registered User
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Muskegon, MI, Michigan
Posts: 676
I have A thick wire that runs from my frame and hooks onto my metal dash. I have grounded everything including (windshield wiper motor, after market radio, ect.) to the metal dash which all carries down onto the frame.
After a while though I moved the grounding of the radio to the negative on the battery, as at higher volume the dash wouldn't ground it good enough and it would turn off then back on.
If you have a fiber dash I would probably go with a metal clip on the back of the dash or ran along the firewall which would be yet again ran to the frame.
For the hooking to the frame I drilled and tapped a whole and put a bolt through there. Then ended up welding it right on there since I knew I wouldn't have to take that wire out and I never wanted it to get lose or fall out.
Dudman5703 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2010, 04:44 PM   #6
Exposed
Senior Member
 
Exposed's Avatar
1981 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Katy, Texas 77493, Katy, Texas
Posts: 587
I went out and was going to take a picture of the block on the firewall and there is so much stuff in front you can't see it very easily... Here is a shot of the fender ground/hot feed blocks. Relay on left is winch relay and one on right is starter....
__________________
****************************
Calvin
Follow My CJ5 Build
81 CJ5, Ford 331 EFI, AX15, D-300, Dana 44 (Detroit Locker)....

When there are more people voting for a living than working for a living,
We are DONE as a Country!!!!!!

Newly Acquired 2014 Grand Cherokee Summit
****************************
Exposed is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-18-2010, 04:56 PM   #7
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,149
The same way you ground ANY Jeep you want the electrical components to work on...

DEDICATED GROUNDS.

One that runs from battery negative to solenoid, then on to the front grill for front lights.

One that runs to alternator housing.

One that runs to engine, then to ignition harness ground.

One that runs to the dash for gauges, switches, ect.

LARGE one that runs to starter, then to frame.

One that runs to back of vehicle for rear lights, fuel tank sender, ect.
JeepHammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 10:58 AM   #8
clubbs
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: East Coast Carolina
Posts: 61
I did a fiberglass body swap on my friends 83 cj7 (5sp 6cyl all stock ignition and wiring, no cruise control no radio) this past weekend, did it all in two days including new paint on the tub front clip and windshield frame. I get the dash and harness back in and immediately start running new grounds. I get marker lights, dash lights, horn, flashers, volt meter, cigarette lighter, all to work but no ignition, and no headlights yet. I can run a jumper to the solenoid and she fires right up with the key in the "run" position. Switching the key to the off position shuts off the motor. But it won't energize the starting solenoid. I get voltage to the coil in "start" position though. I've looked over the wiring harness and haven't seen a ground for the ignition switch, what am I missing. I was trying to not have to drop the dash and column out again but its looking like I need to tone out some wires. If anyone has any pointers I'd greatly appreciate some input.

Thanks in adavnce
Dave
clubbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-04-2013, 05:15 PM   #9
skizriz
Web Wheeler
 
skizriz's Avatar
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: , Pa
Posts: 3,578
Quote:
Originally Posted by clubbs View Post
I did a fiberglass body swap on my friends 83 cj7 (5sp 6cyl all stock ignition and wiring, no cruise control no radio) this past weekend, did it all in two days including new paint on the tub front clip and windshield frame. I get the dash and harness back in and immediately start running new grounds. I get marker lights, dash lights, horn, flashers, volt meter, cigarette lighter, all to work but no ignition, and no headlights yet. I can run a jumper to the solenoid and she fires right up with the key in the "run" position. Switching the key to the off position shuts off the motor. But it won't energize the starting solenoid. I get voltage to the coil in "start" position though. I've looked over the wiring harness and haven't seen a ground for the ignition switch, what am I missing. I was trying to not have to drop the dash and column out again but its looking like I need to tone out some wires. If anyone has any pointers I'd greatly appreciate some input.

Thanks in adavnce
Dave
Did you ground the solenoid??
__________________
78 CJ7 258 TH400/Dana18 SOA/stock YJ springs 35" General Grabbers.
skizriz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-05-2013, 02:31 PM   #10
clubbs
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: East Coast Carolina
Posts: 61
yes solenoid is grounded. I took the dash and column out last night and realized I had bumped the ignition switch and it simply wasn't moving far enough to make contact... Once I moved it a bit it started right up

Now I just have to get the wipers, headlights, and heater fan to work and I'll be all set.
clubbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.