BFH or 12 gauge. If you re-build a BBD, it still is a POS BBD.
Ford MC2100 or 2150. Cheaper, available everywhere, easy to rebuild, easier to tune than a Weber. The 32/36 is perfect for a street Jeep, it sucks on the 4x4 trails. On inclines the 32/36 suffers from float bowl overflow that runs right into the intake and stalls the engine.
A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.
Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...
Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
The 2150, as Tim mentioned, is fairly easy to work on and rebuild if necessary. It has an internal mechanism to adjust to wide changes in elevation - like you could easily do by driving west a few miles. The 2150 won't fly in emissions areas of CO, which you don't have to worry about currently, but a future owner might.
The TBI takes all your worries about elevation, pitch, and emissions away, but is a bit more expensive, depending on if you go with a kit or junkyard build. You'll be getting about as good as you can get in terms of mpgs, but still not much better than a freshly rebuilt carb with fully intact emissions components. You'll up the value of your CJ a touch - not nearly as much as the cost of the kit, but a touch.
They rebuild easily with a $15.00 kit and then just purr while giving great gas mileage. I even have mine on my 'new' 4.0 HO engine and it gives me a sweet 24 mpg mixed driving. On my 258 I got a steady 21 highway fully loaded.
Here is how mine runs with 91 octane ESSO gas and the timing set at 8-9 BTDC using the stock carb, OEM cap, rotor and wires and an Accel coil with 3.31 gears turning 33's. (while still passing emissions and giving 21 mph highway) Computer disabled on the old 258.
1st lights up the 33's 'way' too easy off a stop. 2nd hauls fast to 52 mph@4400 rpm. 3rd pulls hard to 75 mph. 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find out how fast 5th will go.... It also will crawl up a sand pit wall or ravine wall at 400 rpm without a chug, get too steep and it just churns the tires in...
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
There's a guy in Colorado Springs selling them ready to go on eBay. You'll pay more than you would in an auto parts store, but everything is included in his kit and they are jetted correctly for an AMC six cylinder.
I have not seen a BBD that didn't need bushings on the throttle shaft (major air leak & bad idle). If you bush it it will perform nicely.
1985 CJ7 - total customization underway, Sublime green and Plum crazy purple, Ford 9", 258 w/ Holley 475
1985,93 CJ7,YJ - L98 TPI Vette motor, Atlas twin stick, Dana 60s front and rear, Arbs, 39.5 Swampers
As mentioned, but to add my vote, go to the MC2100/2150. I don't have to worry about emissions so put a 2100 off of a '73 CJ5 w/304 onto my '80 CJ7 w/258. Super easy. Also between that and HEI upgrade I have noticeably more power. There are tons of write-ups online. Search "258 motorcraft 2100 2150".
I started out trying the Weber 34DEG... either I was really horrible at installing it or it was a PITA. Either way, I didn't want to go through the process of trying to rejet, etc... and got a deal on the 2100... and am glad.
I rebuilt the original BBD and after 30 years of hard use it is still sweet.
My wife has a 40 Weber from a Ferrari Daytona on her manifold and it is fine but I struggle to see a real life difference.
I go with try to rebuild every time, bushings if needed. If uneconomic to repair than I would consider buying a second hand one from someone who has chopped it for a Weber without trying to fix it. Jeez, not many 30 year old devices still working.
I just hated the idle tube issues and constant aggravation. I understand that they worked for 30 years, but mine always had problems. Since my swap (only 3 months ago) I have driven my CJ every day but 3 and have not had to touch the carb for any reason. Also, I can now pass people on the highway and accelerate to to speed (probably not more than 80... haha) reasonably with stock gears and 33's.