Best place for dash ground - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-06-2005, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
Bard
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Best place for dash ground

Where is the best place for a dash ground? And what gauge wire to use? I swapped harnesses with one that was fully intacted and can not for the life of me figure out why when you put your foot on the clutch about an inch it all power comes to life, lights, fan, etc, come on. Also by adding a seperate ground and I going to be at a higher risk for a meltdown or fire?
It also will not start, cranks over fine, coil is getting 12v, getting gas, all ground wires to battery and motor are new. Still puzzled!!!!


85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-06-2005, 09:42 AM
KGBnumber1
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you should have a wire running from the negative terminal on your battery to 1. the frame, 2. the engine block, 3. the body.

your engine is probably not grounded correctly, which is why it will turn over and not start.
your body is probably not grounded correctly, which is why you move the clutch linkage slightly you created a ground connection for the body, turning on all your lights, fan, etc.


[edit]
another ground wire wont increase the risk of something melting down, unless it becomes shorted with a positive somewhere.
[/edit]

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post #3 of 6 Old 11-06-2005, 12:15 PM
John Strenk
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And your ground wire should be bigger than the rest of the wires.So for the dash, use a 10 gauge or 8 gaoge wire.


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post #4 of 6 Old 11-06-2005, 02:54 PM
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Well if you want to get around that, you can double up the battery negative ground. It should be running to your block now. An additional cable can be run from that point on the block to the firewall to reinforce the body ground. It should atleast ensure your tub is grounded.

I did this and then on the inside of the firewall, I ran another cable from the dash panel at the speedo cluster to the firewall. I wanted to make sure my gauges had a good shot at ground.

Your no-start condition may be unrelated to your ground issue inside. If it will crank, but not start, several other components are involved. You could try to hold the clutch at the point where all the other components power on, but are you getting spark? I would start there and work backwards, or prioritize the no start condition over this suspected ground issue.

85 CJ7 / 258 / T176 / Dana 30/ AMC 20

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post #5 of 6 Old 11-06-2005, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Best place for dash ground

Ok, we are grounded as everyone sent me feedback. Thanks.

The coil is full of power, a little jolt was just an eye opener. Thanks Dad, yes donations for a hearing aid! Anyways - When cranking it over, the spark plug tester was dim to cylinder #1, then when you let off it glows hot for a second. Still wiring or possible timing? Motor is a 86'.

85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-06-2005, 07:15 PM
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sounds like the pickup coil/EECU/ignition module chatter circuit might be an issue if you get a single hot spark when the key is let off.

To my mind this brings the EECU in to question. I had a no spark condition that would allow a single spark to fire when the key was cycled. I called it the One spark of death, b/c it took me forever to realize what should've been obvious. I had replaced everything (village idiot) except the one thing that was in between the pickup coil and the ignition module -- the eecu. It died and prevented the pickup from talking to the ignition module, effectively killing my spark.

I figured that part out doing a half-@$$ nutter bypass just for diagnostic purposes, and sure enough, I got my fire back. It's just a thought.

85 CJ7 / 258 / T176 / Dana 30/ AMC 20

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