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post #1 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
eyedoc
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Best Oil

Ok, I hate to kick this beehive, but I'm going to anyway.

I'm on my first CJ (1959 CJ5) and I want to do my first oil change and it's like looking at something from another planet.

Recommendations on oil, filter and technique would be great. I've changed a million gallons of oil on newer cars, but I'm looking at terms like "oil bath" and I'm afraid I'm going to mess something up with my ignorance.

If it was newer, I'd be using a K&N gold filter and Royal Purple with a shot of Lucas, but I feel like I've never touched a wrench when I look at this Hurricane!


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post #2 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 02:35 PM
bob4703
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Go here http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html

You can down load a service manual. Oil bath refers to the filter media for the air cleaner. Back in the day you just bought an extra quart of oil and changed the oil bath at the oil change. Was messy but it was a fairly efficient air cleaner especially in dusty conditions. Any oil that was around 60 years ago will work--Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, havoline, etc. No need to go high tech on an old school engine. The key is good oil, recommended weight, and change as recommended.

Enjoy!

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post #3 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 04:02 PM
LumpyGrits
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Weight depends on where you live and the temps you see.
I run Castrol 20W-50 in my 32+ yo '7'.
LG

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post #4 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
eyedoc
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Best Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Weight depends on where you live and the temps you see.

I run Castrol 20W-50 in my 32+ yo '7'.

LG


Looking more at brands. I'm in the Hill Country of Texas (which means it ranges between Hell hot in the summer and chilly in the winter) and I'll probably go with a 10w40.

I just don't use a lot of dino oil, so don't know which are better for a Jeep this old. I know some claim to have more of this or more of that, so just sort of shooting in the dark.

My father-in-law always brags on LE, but having a hard time getting it in quantities that wouldn't fill up my garage.

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post #5 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 05:02 PM
kovic
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Rotella T 15-40 Diesel oil during summer, Valvoline 10-30 during winter.

kov
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post #6 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 05:26 PM
Dryseals
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I run synthetics in all my motors and have for many years. I work with a lot of lubrication engineers and such and they do the same even in their old hot rods. All you need is a zinc additive, Zinc was reduced in our engine oils back in 2000 I believe, it attacked the newer style catalytic converters. Tons of folks sell ZDDP additives, don't use a break in oil, that's purely for a new engine. Dino oil will protect your engine just as well, with the same additive. As for weight, no need for a 40 if it calls for a 30, you really don't gain anything, in fact, if you examine the oil passages and where your pressure gauge is, the increase in oil pressure is a direct result from the resistance to flow. So a heavier weight oil flows less which means you are reducing the flow to the parts. Your 10W-40 is saying in the winter time when its cold, it will act like a 10 weight so you get flow to the parts and thicken to a 30 once the engine is warm, thats what the "W" is for...winter
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post #7 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 05:37 PM
Matt1981CJ7
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Several brands of dino oil still have the ZDDP additive. I run the Valvoline VR1 in my CJ, based on the recommendation of experienced engine builders.

The one and only time I tried synthetic, it seemed oil leaked out of every orifice of the engine. I've read that's due to synthetics loosening up the "good crud" that keeps the engine sealed, but I haven't found any definitive proof of those claims.

Matt


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post #8 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 06:47 PM
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^^ When I first bought my jeep, like a dummy I switched it over to synthetic thinking it would be better. Well it got really loud and weak and ended up needing a rebuild.

I was told by my Uncle, who owned (passed away) an old school auto shop that synthetics do no good in these old engine, rebuilt or not, as the clearances are not Like that of newer engines. These old tractor motors run better and last longer on regular oils.

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post #9 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 07:57 PM
Dryseals
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kovic View Post
^^ When I first bought my jeep, like a dummy I switched it over to synthetic thinking it would be better. Well it got really loud and weak and ended up needing a rebuild.

I was told by my Uncle, who owned (passed away) an old school auto shop that synthetics do no good in these old engine, rebuilt or not, as the clearances are not Like that of newer engines. These old tractor motors run better and last longer on regular oils.

kov
I love these and no offense to your uncle, but they are old wives tales. When it comes to our engine oil, lubrication is lubrication. When it comes to an old engine, the detergent in the oil makes all the difference. Had you run a cheap off the shelf oil, you would have kept on going and going. But you ran an oil that had a better additive package and it cleaned the engine the way it should have. Even if you had dropped dino Rotella in there, it would have done the same. Rotella is a diesel oil and diesel is very high detergent ( I would never run it in my vehicle because of that). The other thing you need to be aware of are surfactants.

Ever wonder how your clothes get clean in the washer? Its called surfactants. In laymans terms they suspend the dirt in the water solution rather than have it redeposit on the clothes. Your modern oils do the same thing, they clean and then they suspend the trash in the oil. You drain it and all the trash is gone and like Matt said earlier, you spring leaks because that trash is keeping the engine sealed. Thats a debate for another subject, because the trash does decrease performance, keep it and keep driving or rid it and have to rebuild the engine.

It has nothing to do with synthetics, its all about application and use. If I buy an old jeep with lots of miles on the engine...I'll toss a cheap crappy oil in there to buy me time because that is reality.
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post #10 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dryseals View Post
I love these and no offense to your uncle, but they are old wives tales. When it comes to our engine oil, lubrication is lubrication. When it comes to an old engine, the detergent in the oil makes all the difference. Had you run a cheap off the shelf oil, you would have kept on going and going. But you ran an oil that had a better additive package and it cleaned the engine the way it should have. Even if you had dropped dino Rotella in there, it would have done the same. Rotella is a diesel oil and diesel is very high detergent ( I would never run it in my vehicle because of that). The other thing you need to be aware of are surfactants.

Ever wonder how your clothes get clean in the washer? Its called surfactants. In laymans terms they suspend the dirt in the water solution rather than have it redeposit on the clothes. Your modern oils do the same thing, they clean and then they suspend the trash in the oil. You drain it and all the trash is gone and like Matt said earlier, you spring leaks because that trash is keeping the engine sealed. Thats a debate for another subject, because the trash does decrease performance, keep it and keep driving or rid it and have to rebuild the engine.

It has nothing to do with synthetics, its all about application and use. If I buy an old jeep with lots of miles on the engine...I'll toss a cheap crappy oil in there to buy me time because that is reality.
I think I read somewhere that synthetics are smaller molecules and therefore tend to find gaps that the larger molecule dino oil won't seep through. I don't know if that's a real thing or not, but that's what I read...but what you said makes a lot of sense about chemically scrubbing the crap out of the gaps. As it is right now, I'm not seeing much in the way of leaks, so it's a mixed bag. I like synthetics (like I said, I'm a Royal Purple guy...no real reason, just brand loyalty more than anything) and while I LIKE the idea of cleaning out the crud, I really don't like the notion that cleaning it out means a rebuild because the seals can't handle a cleaner engine.

Talk about a double edged sword! My engine would be a lot cleaner...and it would be evidenced by the pools of oil under it.

On the other topic, anything special about changing the oil? Or is it just draining the pan, changing the filter and then refilling it? I assume the filter is in that big canister attached to the firewall?

I have to admit that while I'm enjoying the learning curve with this, I'm really not liking not knowing anything.

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post #11 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 09:49 PM
HillbillyCJ7
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You definitely dont need anything special for that engine. I would personally start with some 10-30 In your preferred brand and go from there. Hell an sae 30 would be fine. Btw, I live in Bandera. You anywhere close?
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post #12 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryseals View Post
Rotella is a diesel oil and diesel is very high detergent ( I would never run it in my vehicle because of that).
Shell Rotella is a commonly recommended oil for older engines due to its higher ZDDP levels.
The extra detergent is a added plus.

I have been running it in my 258 for the past three years to slowly wash off the sludge from the inside of the engine the PO had built up.

It has worked very well.

I call it a distributor, not a dizzy.
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post #13 of 28 Old 08-17-2017, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
eyedoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HillbillyCJ7 View Post
You definitely dont need anything special for that engine. I would personally start with some 10-30 In your preferred brand and go from there. Hell an sae 30 would be fine. Btw, I live in Bandera. You anywhere close?
I'm about an hour north in Fredericksburg.

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post #14 of 28 Old 08-18-2017, 12:22 AM
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Sae 30 is proper for the f-134 Hurricane. Probably easiest found in the lawn and garden section. I normally just run 10-w40 in mine though. The big cannister on the firewall is the oil bath air cleaner. Loosen the screw and the bottom half will seperate, then you can dump the oil, wipe clean and refil to the line with oil. 10-w30 is fine for this. Don't go heavier for the air cleaner. The oil filter is the cannister that is bolted to the head. Unscrew the bolt/t-screw lift off the lid and then remove the filter element. Stick in the new one, add a bit of oil, replace the gasket on the underside of the lid and bolt it back down. Last time I bought a filter Napa had it in the warehouse.
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post #15 of 28 Old 08-18-2017, 01:26 AM
HillbillyCJ7
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Originally Posted by eyedoc View Post
I'm about an hour north in Fredericksburg.
Good deal. If you need any help on your CJ5, just let me know. Im pretty good at turnin wrenches and drinkin beer

Edit: For filters, Id probably go with Napa brand. I cant remember who makes them though. Definitely stay away from Fram, their quality has gone downhill.
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