Bell housing bolt stripped - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
atom73
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Bell housing bolt stripped

My 360 is IN, yes it has finally happened. Of course there are always issues, apparently when I removed one of the bolts holding the bell housing to the tranny some of the soft aluminum threads from the bell housing came with the bolt and it is stripped I think (in the bell housing). I am not sure if its totally shot or if it is just a course or two, I am going to run a tap through it tomorrow and see if it cleans up. The big problem is access, the motor is in and its a tight spot if I wanted to drill it out and re-tap it. For information purposes this is a 77 CJ5, 360 4 speed (T-18 I think). I bought a longer bolt today and am going to see if I can get it in to some better threads further in the hole. Any other ideas, the other 3 mounting bolts are cool, it sucks that its into this soft aluminum. I really want to get this thing running. Here is a pic of the area even though it doesnt give much info. Thanks,
Mike


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post #2 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 05:30 PM
DeltaSigCJ5
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I would see if there is enough space in the bellhousing to put a nut on a longer bolt if there is room.

1995 Cherokee Sport I-6 5spd 4x4.
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post #3 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
atom73
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I really am trying to avoid pulling either the bell housing or the motor out. Do you think that I can get a nut on the other end?
Mike
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 05:40 PM
DeltaSigCJ5
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I think you could fit your hand in through the clutch fork hole and put a nut on it if there is enough clearance inside and the bolt sticks through a little. you could always try it and the have someone operate the clutch to see if it looks like it would clear.

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post #5 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 05:44 PM
HackFabrication
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If, in fact you did pull the threads out of the hole, you're gonna have to pull the motor/bellhousing or trans/bellhousing and install a helicoil.

Or ya could just run it like it is.

"In the end...It's all Hack."
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 06:11 PM
Scrambler82
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First try the tap route and see how much thread you have.

Remember, the holding power of the bolt is the diameter of the bolt in thread length.

Then check to see if there is space in side of the Bell Housing for either a little longer bolt or a nut.

One other thing, use lock-tite on all of the bolt for the bell-housing to the engine and trans to bell-housing.

Also Lock-Tite should have been used on the Pressure Plate bolts to.

Sorry if this idea a late but it will pay off in the long run.

Lock washers are a no-no in these areas because they tend to break from vibrations harding them and cracking them and then they fallout.
BAM !, you have a loose bolt or loose part.

Scrambler82

Do it right the first time !
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post #7 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your helps guys, I will give this stuff a try.
Mike
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 06:34 PM
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Might also try winding a piece of thin wire (I like .023 welding wire) around a bolt, snaking the wire up thru the clutch fork opening and out the bolt hole, pulling the bolt up thru the bolt hole (from the inside out), putting a nut on the bolt and running it on with an impact wrench.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #9 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, never would have thought of that but I like the little trick. Is the inner surface of the housing flat so that it will accept the bolt and seat properly?
Mike
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 06:53 PM
DeltaSigCJ5
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you guess is as good as mine i think but if you can see that the wall is angled you could always do a little grinding on the bolt head before you put it in.

1995 Cherokee Sport I-6 5spd 4x4.
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-29-2008, 08:03 PM
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why dont you just pull the tranny / t case and see what it really needs to be fixed??? ie re tapped or heli coil?? if youre going to try 1/2 A#$$ solutions just leave it empty..... really its not that much 2 driveshafts 6 skidplate bolts , 4 tranny bolts and some shifter / linkage to unbolt???I know it sucks but youll be happier in the end, I hope, that the job was done right.... just my .02
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post #12 of 14 Old 03-01-2008, 09:53 AM
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I second (or 3rd) the heli coil . I did one on my bellhouseing for a T5 and they work great.
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post #13 of 14 Old 03-01-2008, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Might also try winding a piece of thin wire (I like .023 welding wire) around a bolt, snaking the wire up thru the clutch fork opening and out the bolt hole, pulling the bolt up thru the bolt hole (from the inside out), putting a nut on the bolt and running it on with an impact wrench.
I have also used a magnet with a long aluminum handle. You can usually find these at Sears. Stick the mignet through the hole, pick up the bolt and drag it back through like Beserk stated above. That magnet has saved my behind many times. JC

80 CJ-7 Straight six,comp cam,4.0 head, cherokee header, DUI distributor, Affordable FI TBI ,4.10's wide track amc 20 aussie locked and trussed, Dana 30 aussie locked, PSC steering box, 4.5 RE lift, twin sticked dana 300 with Lo max 4to1 35"STT'S ON DC-1 "It's getting there"
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post #14 of 14 Old 03-02-2008, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all the help. I got a longer bolt same size and ran it all the way into the bell housing, there must have been some good thread beyond what was stripped. I do think that when I redo the tranny that I will be helicoiling that hole though. I did use thread lock and the three other mounting bolts are good so I should be ok till I get to that point. motor fired a little today, discovered that I had the 1 and 5 plug wires switched. It was a relief to find that after spending quite a bit of time scratching my head. I advocate permanently labeling your plug wires, that is how I discovered my Boo-Boo just staring at the motor when I noticed that the 5 wire was too far forward on the block. So tomorrow I have to fix a leak in a power steering coupler and then I should be able to drive it a little bit.
Mike
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