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Unread 05-06-2013, 04:44 PM   #1
Rmally
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Before and After Nutter...good bye wiring!

I spent the day today doing a nutter bypass on my 2.5 engine. First off I don't even rank as "shade tree" in terms of being mechanical but I decided to bite the bullet and give this a try.

Two weeks ago I had a new weber put on and the CJ ran great....for awhile. I started to have sputtering and coughing and then the engine would die after about 6+ miles. It would re-start and run fine again for a short distance. Thought it was all the emissions garbage and computer screwing things up so I decided to try the nutter.

I couldn't find much on doing this on a 2.5 but as its not my dailey driver and wouldn't matter if I screwed it up I moved forward. After everything was cut and spliced I turned the key.......Ran perfect! I then started to try and find wires, relays, etc I no longer needed and started cutting.

I took the CJ out for about a 25 mile ride and it performed great. Never stumbled, hesitated, coughed, nothing...just ran perfect. You can still walk up hill faster than the 2.5... but the Jeep is running solid.

Here's a few before and after pictures, I'm sure I can eliminate more but on the "wasn't sure" wires I just left them alone.

1..jpg   1.b.jpg   2..jpg   2.b.jpg   3..jpg  

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Unread 05-06-2013, 09:23 PM   #2
vinnyabs
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Good for you. Love to hear successs stories. I started out much like you in experience and the nutter was the first of many great adjustments I've done. It's all more knowledge from here!!!
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Unread 05-07-2013, 01:07 AM   #3
Fins
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Huge difference in the before and after pics. Congrats on simplifying the rats nest!
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Unread 05-07-2013, 02:40 AM   #4
John Strenk
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First 4 cyl nutter I've seen done.
Should of documented it.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 06:22 PM   #5
Rmally
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
First 4 cyl nutter I've seen done.
Should of documented it.

I simply followed what the "Nutter" procedure suggested. The only issue was the purple wire from the ECU.....I didn't have one. I had a blue-ish, purple-ish looking wire and assumed that was it. The other three wires (by the way its 4 going into the housing but only three coming out) I could match up so that had to be the wire.

After connecting Orange to Orange and Purple to Purple I turned the key and it was music to my ears......Fired right up, ideled perfect and rev'ed up smooth and nice. The test drive was just as good.

This procedure worked great with my new weber, I was a little skeptical because I couldn't find any info on nutter with a 4 banger. I knew the computer was causing me problems and so far this bypass has been wonderful.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 06:46 PM   #6
kovic
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Nice work!! My computer was removed completely years ago, so I guess you could say its nuttered , However I am too scared to start removing wires, I have a feeling if I mess up it would be tough to undue.

Looks awesome after!

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Unread 05-07-2013, 09:02 PM   #7
JustDandee
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That brings up a question I had early since I have also done the 2.5 nutter, if you dump the oem carb then could you not ditch the whole computer- that is alot of stuff sitting on the garage floor.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 09:07 PM   #8
matthewleeblair
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Good job Rmally! Kovic, you can totally do this. I did it the other day (check my Family Heirloom thread for the info). Just take your time, follow each wire to make sure it isn't connected to anything, snip it, then try to start the Jeep. If it doesn't start or something else weird is or isn't happening that should or shouldn't be, rejoin what you just snipped.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 10:39 PM   #9
kovic
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Thanks Matt, I looked at what you did. I think ill give it a go. I am actually seeing my jeep this weekend to install an MSD ignition. So maybe Ill tackle some wire removal. One thing I am confused on.... I never did the "nutter" thing because the computer was removed, same affect right?

Thanks again

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Unread 05-07-2013, 11:34 PM   #10
yellow85cj
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The AMC 4 and 6 operated the emissions in an almost identical way, if not identical. So following the Nutter instructions are the same for both engines. The AMC 4 HP rating was 105 @5000, the AMC 6 115 @ 3200. Not much of a difference. Like most 4 cyl. engines they are higher rev'ing. The big difference was the torque, the AMC 4 is 132 @2800, the 6 is 210 @1800.

BTW, the alt bracket from a 4 will work on a 6, a tad different (get the "L" bracket that goes from the alt to the block on the back of the alt.), but works fine, and the PS brackets,pump and pulley are the same for the AMC 4 and 6.

Learned quickly that if I saw a "hill" coming, downshift and get the rpms up and it got me through.

If you have a computer that has been removed and are driving it, it has been effectively Nutter'd. If you have changed carbs, again it is effectively Nutter'd.

Removing the wiring is not complicated, just a little tedious. If you disconnect the computer and the diagnostic connection from the side of the battery tray (after you have done the ignition wire change and started the engine ) just start following the wire from the connector ends to the end of the wire. If you do cut a wire, you really won't have to cut that many, as suggested above start the engine. If it doesn't start, splice the wire back and start the engine.

I don't recall any that I cut causing the engine not to start. The only ones that you don't want to cut that are in the bundle are the manifold heater and the electric choke. There are one or two others, but they should be listed in the Nutter wire removal posts.

Once you have removed the now useless wiring, the pile will be LARGE. I wondered how it ever ran with all of it.

BTW, most of the AMC 4 CJ's have a little light to the right of the column, it would show and arrow when lit. It was to tell you that you needed to shift, can't recall whether it was up or down though. So if you have one of these little round lights and wondered what it is, that's it. Or maybe you just have an odd hole in your dash.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 02:13 AM   #11
John Strenk
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That was an "Upshift Light" tell you the engine is hardly working so you can upshift for better economy.




I don;t get the "closed in high gear" on the switch. If your in high gear already, why would you need the light?? And if it's for down shifting, why call it an upshift light?
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Unread 05-08-2013, 03:13 AM   #12
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
I don;t get the "closed in high gear" on the switch. If your in high gear already, why would you need the light?? And if it's for down shifting, why call it an upshift light?
My wife's 84 CJ-7 had that shift light in the dash just to the upper left of the tachometer.
With the 4 speed, once you were in 4th, it stopped coming on. It never came on while downshifting either.

I don't understand that schematic either. Why would the switch close to send power to the light? There must have been a switch on the transmission to indicate it was in high gear.
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