The AMC 4 and 6 operated the emissions in an almost identical way, if not identical. So following the Nutter instructions are the same for both engines. The AMC 4 HP rating was 105 @5000, the AMC 6 115 @ 3200. Not much of a difference. Like most 4 cyl. engines they are higher rev'ing. The big difference was the torque, the AMC 4 is 132 @2800, the 6 is 210 @1800.
BTW, the alt bracket from a 4 will work on a 6, a tad different (get the "L" bracket that goes from the alt to the block on the back of the alt.), but works fine, and the PS brackets,pump and pulley are the same for the AMC 4 and 6.
Learned quickly that if I saw a "hill" coming, downshift and get the rpms up and it got me through.
If you have a computer that has been removed and are driving it, it has been effectively Nutter'd. If you have changed carbs, again it is effectively Nutter'd.
Removing the wiring is not complicated, just a little tedious. If you disconnect the computer and the diagnostic connection from the side of the battery tray (after you have done the ignition wire change and started the engine
) just start following the wire from the connector ends to the end of the wire. If you do cut a wire, you really won't have to cut that many, as suggested above start the engine. If it doesn't start, splice the wire back and start the engine.
I don't recall any that I cut causing the engine not to start. The only ones that you don't want to cut that are in the bundle are the manifold heater and the electric choke. There are one or two others, but they should be listed in the Nutter wire removal posts.
Once you have removed the now useless wiring, the pile will be LARGE. I wondered how it ever ran with all of it.
BTW, most of the AMC 4 CJ's have a little light to the right of the column, it would show and arrow when lit. It was to tell you that you needed to shift, can't recall whether it was up or down though. So if you have one of these little round lights and wondered what it is, that's it. Or maybe you just have an odd hole in your dash.