Been reading the good book of JeepHammer! - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 137 Old 03-23-2010, 08:26 AM
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmartie View Post
The surface area you talk about can you elaborate? Are you talking about the surface area of the post to the fender? Sorry just need details so i make sure i do this right. Thanks again
David
Surface area of the contacts means connection surface.
If you take a look at wiring connectors, especially 'Ring' terminals, you will notice the ring terminals have a lot of surface area for the contact point with the bolt terminal.

Some even have 'Teeth' in the hole to bite in and make better contact.

What happens in most cases is moisture and corrosives creep into the connection and cause corrosion, leaving you very little surface area for the connection.
The more connection surface you have, the more likely you are to keep a connection when this happens.

The 'Teeth' bite into the connection points and move with expansion & contraction, cleaning off new surface when they do.

If you have flat connectors, then you have to do something to keep the moisture and corrosives moisture carries out of the connections.
Thats where something like 'Never-Seize' comes in.

Copper based 'Never-Seize' carries conductive copper in the grease, both sealing up the connection, and keeping a connection when you wouldn't otherwise have one.

You MUST NOT use a conducive environmental sealer on MULTI PATH connections, like connectors for gauges, ignition, ect.
But it's fine for single connection points like your grounding post,
Or where the ground wires meet the front grill shell,
Alternator connection point,
Dash connection point,
Engine connection point, Ect.
(where it won't short out the second, third, or fourth ect. wires in a connector...)

For ignition wiring, dash wires, ect. where you have several wires going into a connector, you use DIELECTRIC GREASE to seal up the connector.
Dielectric grease is NON-Conductive and won't short out the other wires (make unwanted connections).
By filling the plugs full, then pressing them together, wiping off the excess once they are connected, you have sealed out the corrosives, and the connection will work indefinitely instead of corroding up with moistures penetrates.

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post #62 of 137 Old 03-24-2010, 04:37 PM
jdmartie
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1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lakeland Ga
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So would this sequence work: bolt through the fender, washer on top of bolt then nut to hold bolt then terminal lugs with star washers between each then another washer and nut to hold all down or is that just over kill?
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post #63 of 137 Old 09-13-2010, 12:44 PM
paraman72
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Location: Whiteford, Maryland
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I am in the process of dedicating my grounds and in the near future installing the fusible links as suggested. I have fiberglass tub installed and most of the work was dont by PO. I merely completed the body work and paint. Upon inspection of the wiring it all appears to be in good shape. I will be moving my ground from the block to the starter. I will also be grounding the head in prep for team rush upgrade. I will run a 10 ga wire to pick up the grounds from the front lights. I also will be running a ground into the tub for the dash components. A final ground will be run to the rear of the jeep for the lights and the fuel pump.

My questions are...

There is currently two grounds from the front lights, do I need to ground anymore? parking lights, turn lights? if so where do I splice into them at?

My ground that I intent to run to the head, where is the preferred placed to mount this?

The ground I am running into the tub, will a buss bar be an ideal option? Will a brass bolt through the firewall into the buss bar be sufficient?

I have 2 ft ground wire attached to the bell housing but does not terminate anywhere. Is it necessary to ground the bell housing? This wire is obviously new and I dont recall anything like this on the other jeep (parts jeep) I had.

Finally my ground going to the rear lights and fuel pump, Where do I splice into these at?

I have spent the better part of two days reading over Hammers threads and I am truly amazed as to the time and effort that has been spent. I can say that I have learned a great deal more about automotive electronics. And you say that only scraping the iceberg? I can work with instructions and when I apply these to labor work it will sink in.... I am better at saving lives and putting out fires...lol

85 CJ7 Build in progress, 258 with T-5 and dana 300.
Fiberglass tub Raptor lined interior, rustoleum lined the underside. Modified family roll bar from fender mounted rollbar. Full tie ins to the frame soon to come.
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post #64 of 137 Old 09-14-2010, 07:15 PM
mississippidave
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THis s an awesome post!
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post #65 of 137 Old 09-14-2010, 07:35 PM
VACJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraman72 View Post
My questions are...

There is currently two grounds from the front lights, do I need to ground anymore? parking lights, turn lights? if so where do I splice into them at?

My ground that I intent to run to the head, where is the preferred placed to mount this?

The ground I am running into the tub, will a buss bar be an ideal option? Will a brass bolt through the firewall into the buss bar be sufficient?

I have 2 ft ground wire attached to the bell housing but does not terminate anywhere. Is it necessary to ground the bell housing? This wire is obviously new and I dont recall anything like this on the other jeep (parts jeep) I had.

Finally my ground going to the rear lights and fuel pump, Where do I splice into these at?

I have spent the better part of two days reading over Hammers threads and I am truly amazed as to the time and effort that has been spent. I can say that I have learned a great deal more about automotive electronics. And you say that only scraping the iceberg? I can work with instructions and when I apply these to labor work it will sink in.... I am better at saving lives and putting out fires...lol
I used one of the open threads on the side of my 258 head to attach ground. The two signal lights in the grille can definitely benefit from a ground wire. Mine were much brighter after ground wire. I drilled a small hole in the housing for a bolt and ground wire. All of my grille lights ground to the grille and I run a ground from the grille to my brass stud. Same for the rear. I ran a larger wire to the rear near the gas tank and put another smaller brass bolt through the front brace where the tank skid attaches. I ground the rear lights and sending unit to this stud. Inside the tub, everything grounds to a bolt in the bottom lip of my dash. And a single ground then goes back to the brass stud on my fender. Anything under the hood grounds directly to the stud in my fender. Much like a tree with branches.

Since you are in wiring mode, I would definitely follow JeepHammer's diagrams for wiring your headlights with relays. Makes a HUGE difference.
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post #66 of 137 Old 09-14-2010, 07:37 PM
SlikRic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraman72 View Post
I am in the process of dedicating my grounds and in the near future installing the fusible links as suggested. I have fiberglass tub installed and most of the work was dont by PO. I merely completed the body work and paint. Upon inspection of the wiring it all appears to be in good shape. I will be moving my ground from the block to the starter. I will also be grounding the head in prep for team rush upgrade. I will run a 10 ga wire to pick up the grounds from the front lights. I also will be running a ground into the tub for the dash components. A final ground will be run to the rear of the jeep for the lights and the fuel pump.

My questions are...

There is currently two grounds from the front lights, do I need to ground anymore? parking lights, turn lights? if so where do I splice into them at?

My ground that I intent to run to the head, where is the preferred placed to mount this?

The ground I am running into the tub, will a buss bar be an ideal option? Will a brass bolt through the firewall into the buss bar be sufficient?

I have 2 ft ground wire attached to the bell housing but does not terminate anywhere. Is it necessary to ground the bell housing? This wire is obviously new and I dont recall anything like this on the other jeep (parts jeep) I had.

Finally my ground going to the rear lights and fuel pump, Where do I splice into these at?

I have spent the better part of two days reading over Hammers threads and I am truly amazed as to the time and effort that has been spent. I can say that I have learned a great deal more about automotive electronics. And you say that only scraping the iceberg? I can work with instructions and when I apply these to labor work it will sink in.... I am better at saving lives and putting out fires...lol
You lost me at "splicing in". The grounds come from the body normally, understand you have a fiberglass tub, so mount a steel bar in the rear, run a ground from there to your the bolts that mount your rear lights and then run a ground wire through the frame back up to your brass dedicated ground bolt that is connected to the - battery side

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post #67 of 137 Old 09-15-2010, 08:07 AM
mike76CJ5
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good info - subscribed
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post #68 of 137 Old 09-15-2010, 08:47 AM
wingedmare
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When are we going to convince JeepHammer to write "CJ's For Dummys"?

http://jeepin29.blogspot.com/ ~ My blog about how my Jeep has affected my life and how I use it to refresh myself. Have a look if you're intereseted.
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post #69 of 137 Old 09-15-2010, 09:06 AM
apfroggy0408
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Location: Central Indiana
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I noticed you advised against the usage of 6 cell batteries like the Optima series. What's your opinion on the diehard platinum series from Sears? Do they really live up to the current hype they receive. They're no leak so do they have the same behavior of bubble build up?

Thanks.
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post #70 of 137 Old 09-15-2010, 02:24 PM
paraman72
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Location: Whiteford, Maryland
Posts: 287
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlikRic View Post
You lost me at "splicing in". The grounds come from the body normally, understand you have a fiberglass tub, so mount a steel bar in the rear, run a ground from there to your the bolts that mount your rear lights and then run a ground wire through the frame back up to your brass dedicated ground bolt that is connected to the - battery side
I had misinterpreted a ground was already in place, but after looking it does not exist. Thanks

85 CJ7 Build in progress, 258 with T-5 and dana 300.
Fiberglass tub Raptor lined interior, rustoleum lined the underside. Modified family roll bar from fender mounted rollbar. Full tie ins to the frame soon to come.
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post #71 of 137 Old 09-15-2010, 02:28 PM
paraman72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
I used one of the open threads on the side of my 258 head to attach ground. The two signal lights in the grille can definitely benefit from a ground wire. Mine were much brighter after ground wire. I drilled a small hole in the housing for a bolt and ground wire. All of my grille lights ground to the grille and I run a ground from the grille to my brass stud. Same for the rear. I ran a larger wire to the rear near the gas tank and put another smaller brass bolt through the front brace where the tank skid attaches. I ground the rear lights and sending unit to this stud. Inside the tub, everything grounds to a bolt in the bottom lip of my dash. And a single ground then goes back to the brass stud on my fender. Anything under the hood grounds directly to the stud in my fender. Much like a tree with branches.

Since you are in wiring mode, I would definitely follow JeepHammer's diagrams for wiring your headlights with relays. Makes a HUGE difference.
My signal lights are plastic housings, the original ones where rusted beyond repair. Is there anyway to ground these? As well as the side turn signals? Or is this overkill? Thanks

85 CJ7 Build in progress, 258 with T-5 and dana 300.
Fiberglass tub Raptor lined interior, rustoleum lined the underside. Modified family roll bar from fender mounted rollbar. Full tie ins to the frame soon to come.
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post #72 of 137 Old 09-28-2010, 01:57 AM
pile_alcalineNJ
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Location: North Haledon NJ
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coming from a tj a guy with no experience in electrical componets in my jeep. im glad i found this. this information is very usefull and shined some light onto a part of my jeep i considered an unknown entity of wires and connectors that just did something i never knew. thank you jeephammer and to the OP of this thread, i didnt catch if you resolved your problem but hope it did.

Where did i put my doors?
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post #73 of 137 Old 01-30-2011, 11:12 PM
ppd1108
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I had a quick question about the gauge of wire required to go from the battery negative terminal to the brass bolt or BUSS. I assume its a 10 gauge wire or something along those lines. When the 4 gauge wire is crimped into the battery terminal connector, does the 10 gauge wire get crimped into it as well or is there a special connector I have to use?
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post #74 of 137 Old 01-31-2011, 05:06 AM
GPER
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apfroggy0408 View Post
I noticed you advised against the usage of 6 cell batteries like the Optima series. What's your opinion on the diehard platinum series from Sears? Do they really live up to the current hype they receive. They're no leak so do they have the same behavior of bubble build up?

Thanks.
I have used the Die Hard in all of my Jeeps, cars, Polaris Ranger for over 30 years with winches and never a problem.
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post #75 of 137 Old 01-31-2011, 05:09 PM
JeffreyCharles
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1976 CJ5 
 
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Location: Vallejo
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I'd run a 4awg wire from the battery negative post to the bolt (bearing in mind JH's advice concerning local weather conditions). Think of the bolt as simply an extension of the negative post that happens to be away from the battery. Give it as much wire as you can. Then, as other things run from the bolt out to the vehicle, they can be sized appropriately. For instance, from my ground post, I have a 10 gauge wire running to the alternator. But the post itself connects to the battery with 4 gauge. You'll easily find crimp/solder (do both) connectors for the heavier gauge wire on ebay, etc.

Jeffrey Charles
http://jeep.smallcraft.net/
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