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Gear Packages Available! Your # 1 Diff Shop is ROCKRIDGE 4ROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail Engo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shipp

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Unread 12-22-2009, 11:03 AM   #31
W7NB
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2013 JK Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
One thing I might mention,
You are heat shrinking over the factory plastic 'Insulation' on the terminals.
With a little heat, those will pull right off, and you will have a MUCH cleaner install.

If you leave them on the terminals, they allow an air gap under the heat shrink that moisture can sneak into...
That is the ONLY thing I see you have done that I wouldn't have!

The only other thing I see is your factory 'Open Plug' connectors don't seem to have any Dielectric grease in them.
For this reason I have switched to the non-insulated connectors. I slide an appropriate length of shrink tube over the wire, crimp on the connector, heat and wick in good silver solder, let cool (so it does not melt or shrink tubing) then slide on tubing and shrink.

Now if I could just find a decent high/low beam switch

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Unread 12-22-2009, 11:31 AM   #32
uglyoldbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
RULE #7.
STEEL IS A
HORRIBLE CONDUCTOR OF ELECTRICITY.

Recently, I acquired a CJ 2A and stripped the rotted body off down to bare frame and axles.
I was demonstrating to another Jeeper and friend how electricity would not conduct from one end of the vehicle to the other with a battery and jumper cables.

In the short distance of a VERY SHORT CJ 2A frame, the current was reduced by about 1/3!


Keep this in mind when you are trying to use your frame/body as a 'Ground'!

About 1/3 of the current you try and pass through those steel components is getting lost under IDEAL CONDITIONS!

It would have been MUCH worse if I had added in some rusty brackets, loose steel bolts, some painted surfaces, ect.

Simply DO NOT rely on your tub or frame to act as proper 'Ground',
ESPECIALLY if you intend to use high load devices, like winches, inverters, rear mounted batteries, ect.

Just a quick question, that 33% current loss. How much of that was due to the jumper cable connections? I have a feeling that those connectors contributed a significant amount of loss.
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Unread 12-22-2009, 04:18 PM   #33
JeepHammer
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I wouldn't say so, my Jumper Cables are home made, not those 12 Ga. wire in 'Fat' insulation sold by Wally-World.

Mine are 4 Ga. welding cable with copper connectors in the jaws.
Since I use mine a lot, I didn't want junk for cables.

I cleaned off the spot where I connected and tested at the connection point, then tested again at the back of the frame which should have ruled out the cables all together...
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Unread 12-22-2009, 06:55 PM   #34
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Wow, Great Thread Jeep Hammer. All your rules should be taken, added to one post, and made a sticky (I didnt look, maby they already are?)

Anyway, As I read it I kept saying to myself, Whoho! I did good! haha

Anyway, I thought Id show a few pics of my electrical installs on my jeep.
For the mean time, I ran the batteries in parallel to keep things simple. I plan to add the solenoids and whatnot down the road:
Let me know if you see anything really bad =) (Theres one thing I cant believe I Didn't do)


I made these cables, There 1/0 or 1 ott. =)
Notice The ground on the back of the head! =)




Here is my fuse for my under dash fuse panel, for accessories.



Heres the panel and the fuse installed:





Heres my plugs for my YJ intermittent wipers, controlled by my CJ Switch.
(I want to be able to remove the window in the summer)



Im not sure If theres such a thing as to much die-electric grease... As long as you wipe up the extra =)
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Unread 12-23-2009, 07:59 AM   #35
JeepHammer
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SUPER CLEAN INSTALL!

Couldn't have done it better myself!
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Unread 12-23-2009, 08:29 AM   #36
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Thanks JeepHammer!!

The only thing is, I don't have a fuse in line with my hot cable between the batteries... EEK!!
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Unread 12-23-2009, 11:40 AM   #37
JeepHammer
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Can't really fuse a battery cable,
The best thing you can do is fasten it down out of harm's way,
And I usually put extra insulation on them...
Anything from heat shrink (Expensive) to old garden hose (Cheap).
Just make sure your fasteners won't cut into the insulation and you should be fine.
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Unread 12-23-2009, 01:51 PM   #38
Redmanchew
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Hey Eddie, how about a sticky for this one? definately worth bookmarking of it is not.
JH thanks again for all the help!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 12-23-2009, 07:58 PM   #39
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JeepHammer...

...and to think I was thinking I had my jeep dialed in...well...I've got some more fun projects ahead of me...

Your post is very much appreciated and Bookmarked!

Thanks again,

SC
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Unread 12-23-2009, 08:37 PM   #40
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Group_er View Post
Wow, Great Thread Jeep Hammer. All your rules should be taken, added to one post, and made a sticky (I didnt look, maby they already are?)

Anyway, As I read it I kept saying to myself, Whoho! I did good! haha

Anyway, I thought Id show a few pics of my electrical installs on my jeep.
For the mean time, I ran the batteries in parallel to keep things simple. I plan to add the solenoids and whatnot down the road:
Let me know if you see anything really bad =) (Theres one thing I cant believe I Didn't do)


I made these cables, There 1/0 or 1 ott. =)
Notice The ground on the back of the head! =)




Here is my fuse for my under dash fuse panel, for accessories.



Heres the panel and the fuse installed:





Heres my plugs for my YJ intermittent wipers, controlled by my CJ Switch.
(I want to be able to remove the window in the summer)



Im not sure If theres such a thing as to much die-electric grease... As long as you wipe up the extra =)


I like it. A couple questions.

Where do you buy the connectors like you used? (Are they made of copper?)

Best place to buy the welder wire? Home depot? Diff size avail?

How do you like those oddyssey batts? I want one, just trying to justify 250 or more for a Batt. FL humidity eats threw batts.

(If any of this is covered I am sorry I didn't read every single post)
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Unread 12-23-2009, 10:27 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJman77 View Post
I like it. A couple questions.

Where do you buy the connectors like you used? (Are they made of copper?)

Best place to buy the welder wire? Home depot? Diff size avail?
Heavy 'LUG' terminals are available from the same place the WELDING CABLE is,
From a welding shop!
You will get the best deal there on the good cable also...

Good place to get the 'Industrial' version of the heat shrink tubing also!

Welding cable is VIRGIN COPPER, meaning no alloys like aluminum melded in.

Welding cable is FINE STRAND, which carries AMPERAGE loads much better than 'BATTERY CABLE' does.

Welding cable comes with a rubberized insulation that is abrasion resistant, heat resistant, and chemical resistant.

Can't say that about plain old vinyl automotive wire insulation!

Quote:
How do you like those oddyssey batts? I want one, just trying to justify 250 or more for a Batt. FL humidity eats threw batts.
We run a lot of Odyssey batteries in the race cars at work.
Beats the 'Jelly Roll' or 'Six Pack' AGM batteries all to he!! and back!

They are a true 'Gel Cell' battery, so they are virtually shock proof unless you break the case,

If you don't plan on rolling the vehicle over on a regular basis, then you REALLY don't need them,
But if you want a solid, reliable (But EXPENSIVE!) battery, then Odyssey is the way to go over those 'Six Pack' AGM batteries...

One thing you have to watch in Fla. is putting tap water in your batteries!
You live on what is pretty much a limestone rock, and limestone in the water will kill a battery in short order.
(Limestone is a base, and it neutralizes acid in the battery)

Water from a water softener is just as bad, but in a different way.
Salt ions will coat the plate with sulfidation, and the battery is dead in short order again.

Use DISTILLED WATER from the store.
Cheap, plentiful and it will make your battery(s) last MUCH longer.
So will keeping the tops of the batteries clean...
MUCH CRAP will collect on the top of the battery, and moisture in the dust, mud, whatever will short between terminals.
If you knock stuff into the battery that will kill the cell and the battery is junk.

Keep the tops clean, keep the terminals clean and use distilled water...
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Unread 12-23-2009, 10:34 PM   #42
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Heavy 'LUG' terminals are available from the same place the WELDING CABLE is,
From a welding shop!
You will get the best deal there on the good cable also...

Good place to get the 'Industrial' version of the heat shrink tubing also!

Welding cable is VIRGIN COPPER, meaning no alloys like aluminum melded in.

Welding cable is FINE STRAND, which carries AMPERAGE loads much better than 'BATTERY CABLE' does.

Welding cable comes with a rubberized insulation that is abrasion resistant, heat resistant, and chemical resistant.

Can't say that about plain old vinyl automotive wire insulation!



We run a lot of Odyssey batteries in the race cars at work.
Beats the 'Jelly Roll' or 'Six Pack' AGM batteries all to he!! and back!

They are a true 'Gel Cell' battery, so they are virtually shock proof unless you break the case,

If you don't plan on rolling the vehicle over on a regular basis, then you REALLY don't need them,
But if you want a solid, reliable (But EXPENSIVE!) battery, then Odyssey is the way to go over those 'Six Pack' AGM batteries...

One thing you have to watch in Fla. is putting tap water in your batteries!
You live on what is pretty much a limestone rock, and limestone in the water will kill a battery in short order.
(Limestone is a base, and it neutralizes acid in the battery)

Water from a water softener is just as bad, but in a different way.
Salt ions will coat the plate with sulfidation, and the battery is dead in short order again.

Use DISTILLED WATER from the store.
Cheap, plentiful and it will make your battery(s) last MUCH longer.
So will keeping the tops of the batteries clean...
MUCH CRAP will collect on the top of the battery, and moisture in the dust, mud, whatever will short between terminals.
If you knock stuff into the battery that will kill the cell and the battery is junk.

Keep the tops clean, keep the terminals clean and use distilled water...


Yeah I only use distilled water in my batts and in my radiator anyway.

Welding store? I didn't know such a thing exists. How do I find one? I did some googling around sarasota florida where I am and I can't find anything other then places that sell gas.
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Unread 12-23-2009, 10:55 PM   #43
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Thanks, I cant be much help because I bought most of that stuff from my private local auto store.
The batteries are amazing. Hands down just f-ing awsome.
If I forget to hook up my ignition wire, and crank the motor over, It spins my straight 6 soooooooo fast its insane.... alot of initial cranking amps I guess. Ive never drained them... Ive tried too. I leave my lights and sterio on all day wheelin (when motors off), people ask me why, I say... Cause I can!!
So yea, cant say enough good things about the batterys. Mind you, they were 600 ca for the pair. But they do have a 3 year warranty.
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Unread 12-23-2009, 11:17 PM   #44
lclark2074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJman77 View Post
Yeah I only use distilled water in my batts and in my radiator anyway.

Welding store? I didn't know such a thing exists. How do I find one? I did some googling around sarasota florida where I am and I can't find anything other then places that sell gas.
one welding suply shop around your area is air gas and no I doint work for them
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Unread 12-24-2009, 07:42 AM   #45
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lclark2074 View Post
one welding suply shop around your area is air gas and no I doint work for them
I didn't think air gas supplied any thing but gas.

Did some surfing around on their website. Looks pretty good. I saw the welder wire. I should prob use it for everything vehicle related. (Stereo, grounds, etc.)

I didn't find the copper connectors on the air gas website. But I did find that painless sell copper ones.

Painless Wiring 40065 Extreme Condition Terminal Assortment Kit 67 pc. Weatherproof - Diesel Performance Parts

Are these worth ordering? Or are they way over priced? I know anything with copper is gonna cost primo!

Last edited by CJman77; 12-24-2009 at 08:06 AM..
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