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Unread 05-28-2010, 09:43 PM   #46
Coiz
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With the POR kit, I don't think you really need the alcohol. It can't hurt but I'm not sure you need it. Once all the repairs are done to the frame just hit the flash rust with a quick wire wheel if you want to. Wash it really good with a scrubby sponge and the Marine Clean diluted 4:1 with the hottest water you can stand(I did it twice). That's 4 parts water to 1 part Marine Clean. That stuff is the best cleaner/degreaser I have ever seen! You don't need to use it at full strength. Once it is clean, rinse it off, dry it with a towel then coat and soak with the Metal Ready. Watch where the Metal Ready drips off the frame. Have a few catch pans set up to collect what drips off and return it back to the spray bottle. You have to spray it down 3-4 times to keep it wet so you can go through it fast. It is reusable and fairly expensive so it is worth it to try and collect and reuse as much as you can, IMHO. Once it has soaked for 30~45 minutes rinse it and let it dry. It will turn a golden brown color. If there is any white chalky substance anywhere just wipe it with a clean dry towel. After that you are ready to apply the paint. The Metal Ready etches the metal and leaves a zinc-phosphate coating that I don't think you would want to wash off with the denatured alcohol.

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Unread 05-28-2010, 10:15 PM   #47
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
With the POR kit, I don't think you really need the alcohol. It can't hurt but I'm not sure you need it. Once all the repairs are done to the frame just hit the flash rust with a quick wire wheel if you want to. Wash it really good with a scrubby sponge and the Marine Clean diluted 4:1 with the hottest water you can stand(I did it twice). That's 4 parts water to 1 part Marine Clean. That stuff is the best cleaner/degreaser I have ever seen! You don't need to use it at full strength. Once it is clean, rinse it off, dry it with a towel then coat and soak with the Metal Ready. Watch where the Metal Ready drips off the frame. Have a few catch pans set up to collect what drips off and return it back to the spray bottle. You have to spray it down 3-4 times to keep it wet so you can go through it fast. It is reusable and fairly expensive so it is worth it to try and collect and reuse as much as you can, IMHO. Once it has soaked for 30~45 minutes rinse it and let it dry. It will turn a golden brown color. If there is any white chalky substance anywhere just wipe it with a clean dry towel. After that you are ready to apply the paint. The Metal Ready etches the metal and leaves a zinc-phosphate coating that I don't think you would want to wash off with the denatured alcohol.
Mike- Thanks. I will follow your directions carefully. I am a little gunshy after this whole experience! Does the Metal Ready work like Ospho? I wonder if they are the same thing??
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Unread 05-28-2010, 10:18 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Bren Gun View Post
Sorry, haven't read the whole post, but I used Rustoleum bedliner and Rusty Metal primer to finish my '53 CJ3-B's frame and it looks fine. HTH




Your frames looks better than mine! Nice, flat and smooth finish. I have heard good things about the Rustoleum materials, besides them being around forever. Have you reassembled yet? Thanks for the pics.
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Unread 05-28-2010, 10:27 PM   #49
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Does the Metal Ready work like Ospho? I wonder if they are the same thing??
They both have phosphoric acid as their main ingredient so they are obviously similar but I don't see zinc phosphate on the Ospho MSDS sheet.

Also, make sure that frame is bone dry before you apply the POR. Wait overnight after cleaning or dry it and use a hair dryer or some other portable heater.
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Unread 05-28-2010, 10:33 PM   #50
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
They both have phosphoric acid as their main ingredient so they are obviously similar but I don't see zinc phosphate on the Ospho MSDS sheet.

Also, make sure that frame is bone dry before you apply the POR. Wait overnight after cleaning or dry it and use a hair dryer or some other portable heater.
Good stuff! Thanks for that!!
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Unread 05-29-2010, 05:43 AM   #51
Bren Gun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Your frames looks better than mine! Nice, flat and smooth finish. I have heard good things about the Rustoleum materials, besides them being around forever. Have you reassembled yet? Thanks for the pics.
No problem, it's getting there, but is a huge basket case right now sitting around the barn. Lots to do, good luck with yours too!
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Unread 06-19-2010, 01:13 PM   #52
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You know how it goes... never at the speed that you expect, and there's ALWAYS something gets in the way of JEEP WORK! I want this done! I want the axles back under it! I want the drivetrain back in the frame! I want my shop cleaned up! I want my floor space back! It has been awhile since we got the frame stripped. I still have not picked up replacement 3/16 steel to make the patches. My neighbor, who will do the welding, is sitting on "G", and waiting on "O", so it's my fault. Or call it my WIFE's fault... since I don't want to except the repsonsibility of being slow! I know you guys are saying the surface rust, or flash rust, is not a big deal, but I'm nervous! I took a wire wheel to half of the frame and had to stop... it's 100 humid degrees here... will finish it later this evening. You can see in the first pic what I am knocking off. The other pics are for your viewing pleasure... one of them showing the significant rot outlined by a Sharpie. You SURE this is nothing to worry about?? Shouldn't I spray it down with rust converter?

Please put an old man at ease!!
img_3027.jpg   img_3030.jpg   img_3032.jpg   img_3033.jpg  
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Unread 07-31-2010, 10:12 AM   #53
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For anyone who may be interested in following this build, specifically frame repair, it is picked up in this thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
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Unread 07-31-2010, 12:23 PM   #54
SlikRic
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Here is a link to the cheapest place I have found to buy U-pol Raptor. I have orderd 7 kits from them and get excellent shipping and service.

U-Pol Raptor Truck Bed Liner Kit - TP Tools & Equipment
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Unread 09-09-2010, 07:37 AM   #55
Pacfanweb
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Slight necropost here, but I'd POR right over that surface rust, if you haven't already.
POR stand for
Paint
Over
Rust.

They specifically state that you can and should paint right over light rust. Helps the POR "grab" better.
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Unread 09-09-2010, 04:34 PM   #56
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
Slight necropost here, but I'd POR right over that surface rust, if you haven't already.
POR stand for
Paint
Over
Rust.

They specifically state that you can and should paint right over light rust. Helps the POR "grab" better.
Pacfan... you're right. If I had it to do again, I would. But I second-guessed myself, out-thought it... whatever! If I EVER do another frame, I will use the POR kit through the whole process... which means the 7 will probably get it once we finish the 5.
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