Originally Posted by stgil
But what about Factory Diesel Engine CJ harness ('82-'86) ?
I've quite rebuild mine: engine harness and rear harness is done... I'm waiting for the body tub for the dashboard harness
And another serious question: do you have parckard 59 connectors on your "regular" harness or it's a particularity of the diesel engine ?
Not a ton of difference between 56/59 Male connectors,
Just a longer contact patch on the blade, both were 1/4" wide weren't they?
I found both 56 & 59 in the bulk head connector of my '76, but it was a wiring NIGHTMARE when it got to me... From the factory no less!
It lived at a farm fertilizer place for about 10-12 years, and you think road salt will eat things up,
You haven't seen ANYTHING yet! Fertilizer is the all time WORST, and it's YEAR ROUND...
Some of the wires were corroded 12" into the insulation!
Probably would have helped if they didn't park it in the barn WITH the fertilizer all year around!
59's in the firewall for the 10 Ga. wiring, and cheaper to have everything in 59,
And most of the harness connectors were 56 in my harnesses,
But admittedly, I'm dated,
The newest thing I own that I've rewired is a '79...
And no diesels... (I WISH I had a Diesel, but gas burners are the 'Norm' around here.)
The 56/59 Female are 'Constant Tension' terminals,
While the 58 Female is a CUT FOR CONNECTION, rolled sides to cut the corrosion off the male as they make contact.
Some of the 58 Females won't fit in my 56/59 connector housings, they are 'Too Thick' with the rolled sides,
But that might just be the brand of connector I'm using... (Generic)
Packard 56 connectors (1/4" Male/Female 'Spade') connectors were the way EVERYTHING was done until fuel injection came along and vehicle warranties extended past 3 years.
Most of the 'Flag' or '1/4" Spade' terminals all over your engine and harness are variations of 'Packard 56' connectors,
And your bulk head connectors (The one that baffles most harness re-builders) are all Packard 56 connectors.
I'm old enough to remember 12 Month/12,000 Mile Warranties,
And it was a HUGE deal when they went to 3 years/36,000 Miles,
We just bought a car last year that has a 10 Year/100,000 mile warranty.
Fuel Emissions standards and Fuel Mileage Demands drove us into electronic fuel injection,
Which is EXPENSIVE to intall and EXPENSIVE to DIAGNOSE
The fix was often a 20 cent connector, but a technician might spend 3 days looking for the 'Issue', on warranty company money...
SO with the advent of fuel injection and low voltage/low current sensors,
The factories went to 'Weather Pack' water proof and low resistance connectors that didn't cause problems.
A little bit of corrosion plays hell with a low voltage sensor connection!
I made a small fortune at the local dealership when GM released the MAP sensor plugs that wouldn't hold tension against the terminals in the MAP sensor...
The 'ASE' parts changer would test the sensor (Tested 'Good') and then test the connector, (and it tested 'Good') and he'd never been trained to think for himself, so he never checked for actual terminal contact between the two...
What usually happened, he'd stick a cleaning tool in that connector, and spread the terminals out even farther, and instead of suspecting the connector, he'd change the sensor and send it out the door...
(I LOVED the 'Lemon Law'! Got a lot of 'Hired Guns' in the dealerships to figure things out when the dealership was going to have to give the money back in full!)