BASIC WIRING 101, Getting You Started! - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 05:27 AM
stgil
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1982 CJ7 
 
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Subscribed!!!

But what about Factory Diesel Engine CJ harness ('82-'86) ?
I've quite rebuild mine: engine harness and rear harness is done... I'm waiting for the body tub for the dashboard harness

And another serious question: do you have parckard 59 connectors on your "regular" harness or it's a particularity of the diesel engine ?

Regards,

Gilles


FULL DANA 30 REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj7-dana-30-full-rebuilt-setup-part-i-1121189
'82 CJ7 LAREDO REBUILD->http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/82-cj7-laredo-diesel-restoration-1179198/
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post #32 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgil View Post
Subscribed!!!

But what about Factory Diesel Engine CJ harness ('82-'86) ?

I've quite rebuild mine: engine harness and rear harness is done... I'm waiting for the body tub for the dashboard harness

And another serious question: do you have parckard 59 connectors on your "regular" harness or it's a particularity of the diesel engine ?

Regards,

Gilles
Not a ton of difference between 56/59 Male connectors,
Just a longer contact patch on the blade, both were 1/4" wide weren't they?

I found both 56 & 59 in the bulk head connector of my '76, but it was a wiring NIGHTMARE when it got to me... From the factory no less!
It lived at a farm fertilizer place for about 10-12 years, and you think road salt will eat things up,
You haven't seen ANYTHING yet! Fertilizer is the all time WORST, and it's YEAR ROUND...
Some of the wires were corroded 12" into the insulation!
Probably would have helped if they didn't park it in the barn WITH the fertilizer all year around!

59's in the firewall for the 10 Ga. wiring, and cheaper to have everything in 59,
And most of the harness connectors were 56 in my harnesses,
But admittedly, I'm dated,
The newest thing I own that I've rewired is a '79...
And no diesels... (I WISH I had a Diesel, but gas burners are the 'Norm' around here.)

The 56/59 Female are 'Constant Tension' terminals,
While the 58 Female is a CUT FOR CONNECTION, rolled sides to cut the corrosion off the male as they make contact.
Some of the 58 Females won't fit in my 56/59 connector housings, they are 'Too Thick' with the rolled sides,
But that might just be the brand of connector I'm using... (Generic)

------------------------------

Packard 56 connectors (1/4" Male/Female 'Spade') connectors were the way EVERYTHING was done until fuel injection came along and vehicle warranties extended past 3 years.

Most of the 'Flag' or '1/4" Spade' terminals all over your engine and harness are variations of 'Packard 56' connectors,
And your bulk head connectors (The one that baffles most harness re-builders) are all Packard 56 connectors.

-----------------------------

I'm old enough to remember 12 Month/12,000 Mile Warranties,
And it was a HUGE deal when they went to 3 years/36,000 Miles,

We just bought a car last year that has a 10 Year/100,000 mile warranty.

Fuel Emissions standards and Fuel Mileage Demands drove us into electronic fuel injection,
Which is EXPENSIVE to intall and EXPENSIVE to DIAGNOSE,
The fix was often a 20 cent connector, but a technician might spend 3 days looking for the 'Issue', on warranty company money...

SO with the advent of fuel injection and low voltage/low current sensors,
The factories went to 'Weather Pack' water proof and low resistance connectors that didn't cause problems.
A little bit of corrosion plays hell with a low voltage sensor connection!

I made a small fortune at the local dealership when GM released the MAP sensor plugs that wouldn't hold tension against the terminals in the MAP sensor...
The 'ASE' parts changer would test the sensor (Tested 'Good') and then test the connector, (and it tested 'Good') and he'd never been trained to think for himself, so he never checked for actual terminal contact between the two...

What usually happened, he'd stick a cleaning tool in that connector, and spread the terminals out even farther, and instead of suspecting the connector, he'd change the sensor and send it out the door...
(I LOVED the 'Lemon Law'! Got a lot of 'Hired Guns' in the dealerships to figure things out when the dealership was going to have to give the money back in full!)
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post #33 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 05:57 AM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
When you guys find LINKS AND SOURCES FOR THIS STUFF, POST THEM UP!

Sources for Factory Crimp (OEM) terminals, sources for tools, ect. PLEASE post them up!
These guys are pretty good also:
http://www.ronfrancis.com/

I found the bulkhead connectors here also.
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post #34 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 06:14 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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About 50% of Hammer's pictures don't load for me.

I just get the little blue box with a question mark inside.

Matt
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post #35 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
About 50% of Hammer's pictures don't load for me.

I just get the little blue box with a question mark inside.

Matt
The picture fairy thinks you have been a bad boy...

Hit 'Reload' and see what happens...

If you are on a lap top, or have slow connection speeds, the browsers often don't load everything before it times out, and this thread is PICTURE HAPPY...

All the pictures are GENERIC, to avoid the crap in the 'Browser Wars',
No preference for IE, Chrome, Firefox, ect. So everyone has an equal chance of getting the download.
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post #36 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 07:08 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Hammer,

It's likely my crappy, slow, satellite connection, here at home, is causing a timeout.

I'll check this thread again when I have a better connection.

Matt
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post #37 of 137 Old 03-12-2012, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
JeepHammer
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To Everyone watching the thread,

I keep adding stuff to the first 4 posts,
So if you haven't 'Refreshed' in a while, it's a good idea.
Some browsers display older pages and don't automatically 'Refresh' when you view the thread again.
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post #38 of 137 Old 03-13-2012, 07:46 AM
Jmelnik58
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Subscribed
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post #39 of 137 Old 03-13-2012, 10:14 AM
Liv2bowhunt
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subscribed!
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post #40 of 137 Old 03-13-2012, 01:13 PM
gunrun45
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Jeephammer: Why can't you just live in northern California! Sure would make my life a LOT easier LOL. Thanks again for the great info.

What can happen, will happen. Usually at the least opportune time!
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post #41 of 137 Old 03-13-2012, 02:00 PM
CJuncky
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I found these connectors at my local CarQuest parts store. Manager said they are a stock item. This is the first time uploading pics so I hope this works.
Attached Thumbnails
SANY0314.jpg  

81 CJ5 258/T18/dana20/ARB locked diffs/33's
80 CJ7 258/auto/d 44 diffs/ 4" lift/rebuild started 80 CJ7 #2 stock(sold)
82 CJ7 stock DD
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post #42 of 137 Old 03-13-2012, 02:04 PM
CJuncky
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Ok it worked but pic is huge, needs a little more practice I think. Anyway Thanks again Hammer!

81 CJ5 258/T18/dana20/ARB locked diffs/33's
80 CJ7 258/auto/d 44 diffs/ 4" lift/rebuild started 80 CJ7 #2 stock(sold)
82 CJ7 stock DD
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post #43 of 137 Old 03-13-2012, 02:24 PM
ASteve
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Perfect timing as I'm getting ready for the lights...

Subscribed and thank you!

SC
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post #44 of 137 Old 03-14-2012, 06:18 AM
Deuskid
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Sweet!

subscribed

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post #45 of 137 Old 03-26-2012, 02:58 PM
Fastrack
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Using a Generic Crimper for the Male Packard 56 connector

Hi,

I've been searching google for days. I have a Ski-doo Snowmobile and not a jeep... But it uses the Male/Female Packard/GM 56 connectors

I have a ChannelLock 909 crimper but it's for non-insulated connectors only, not "open barrel types". I've wasted 4 female ends so far and the 909 crimper just squishes the connector. I bought the the connectors from CarQuest TA708 female, TA709 male.

I was looking at ebay .. And found this one:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Open-Barrel-T...item56481f46b1

It seems to fit the bill perfectly.. But I found what looks like the exact tool:
http://texasindustrialelectric.com/tools.asp

It says "Will Not Crimp the Packard 56 14-16 Male Terminal", I wrote them an email and the guy responded and said.. It doesn't have enough leverage to "complete the crimp". If that's the case maybe I could just finish off the crimp in the ChannelLocks ??

So that begs the question is the guy just trying to sell the $135 tool? Or would the $30 + shipping ebay tool work for both male & female.

Sorry I don't own a Jeep hopefully you'll still assist

Ben
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