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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 11-30-2011, 11:58 AM   #16
Renegade82
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JeepHammer - Any thoughts on TRW brand ball joints?

Or anyone for that matter.

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Unread 11-30-2011, 12:47 PM   #17
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Personally I've never had a problem pressing balljoint either with a hydraulic press or with a dedicated balljoint press. I would have to guess that I've pressed 20-30 sets (4 per set).
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Unread 11-30-2011, 04:51 PM   #18
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Glad to know your contribution to this thread was bragging on your proficiency CSP.

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For the rest of us that have Murphy's Law hanging over our heads,

Like I said, you CAN crush the treads or ruin the taper on the stud if you don't have a clamp that clearances these things when you are pushing on the SOCKET BODY during install.
So be aware of that.

Even "professionals" screw that up from time to time...
There is a box of brand new ball studs damaged during install at the local tire and alignment shop, and they do it every day, all day long...

--------------------------------

The second thing to look for is the clamp on the bottom side of the socket hole,
The ball studs push through somewhat, so you can't have the clamp right on the hole,
And the area around the hole is NOT perpenducular to the hole!
This will make the 'C' clamp type want to slide when you torque on the screw to push the ball stud in the knuckle.

So it's something to watch for also...

The shops have 'Cup Dies' cut with angled tops, but the ones you get with the 'One Size Fits Nothing' sets will be square cut and won't follow the angle of the clamp.
Strong hands, maybe a vice, will help out a lot,
And positioning the 'C' clamp body against the knuckle will help,
The first reflex is to have the clamp body hanging out in space, but it's better off against the knuckle where it can't twist as you tighten the lead screw pushing the ball stud into it's bore.

Most of those 'C' clamp types have a plunger you can remove from the business end of the lead screw,
That will help clearance the threads when you remove it,

But make SURE you have a long enough collar between ball stud body and the top piece the screw pushes against...
That end piece for the collar often has a smaller hole than the stud,
So if the collar isn't long enough, the threads/taper will contact and deform before you actually push on the socket body...

This is usually what you get for a 'Rental' tool at the parts stores...



And most times, THIS ADAPTER KIT is what you need to make it 'Practical'...



If you get the basic kit, think LONG AND HARD about the way things are going to work as the screw goes in so you don't have mistakes!

If you don't use a lower spacer, the ball stud socket can't seat in the hole.

If you don't use the correct length top spacer tube, you will get into the threads/taper and force the ball into the socket material, causing a failure,

If you use the wrong DIAMETER of tube spacer, you can wind up either pressing on the lip inside, ruining the ball socket,
And if you use one too big, you wind up with the ball stud stuck in the tube instead of installed in the knuckle.

Normally, you only get about a 1/8" lip to press on from the top, so the tube adapter has to be a pretty good fit, If you don't have that fit, then try another store for a different brand of press that might have the correct collar spacer for your ball stud...

Since the parts store 'Rentals' are actually FREE, it's not an issue if you have to swap around a little to get a good fit!
I take my ball studs with me to see if they even have a driver collar that fits before I rent them when I'm doing this out of town and away from my set that DOES have the correct sizes for Jeeps and most other vehicles.

Another tip,
When you get things situated where it will work,
BREAK OUT THE DUCT TAPE and tape the bottom (Socket) side together, and to the press.
Trying to keep about a half dozen loose parts all lined up while you tighten the clamp and hang onto the knuckle is a pain in the azz...

Taping those end block pieces together on the clamp will save you some Juggling!
It also seems to keep the press from slipping as much on the uneven side of the knuckle... and the ball stud will have no problems breaking through tape when it comes through the knuckle...
It don't have to be pretty, it just has to work!

-----------------------

If you want to see these presses in use, do a 'You Tube' search for 'Ball Joint Replacement' and watch a few of the videos...
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Unread 11-30-2011, 05:37 PM   #19
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the c-clips made me laugh all the dana 30s i did ball joints on i had to tighten the press and wrap the axel housing with a 3-4 lb sledge to get it to pop a 1/6th of an inch and repeat till they were pressed out and the pressing in was a little better with grease after i sanded the inside where the ball joint slips in.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 06:19 PM   #20
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I don't care for TRW anymore.
They USED to make a good product, but I've had TERRIBLE luck with TRW parts for the past few years.
The quality seems to have dropped a bunch (I don't know why)

TRW internal engine and electrical components especially seem to fail, or be wrong out of the box, with amazing regularity.

30 years ago, they were dead on EVERY TIME, the last ten years it's hit an miss, and if they do fit/work, they seem to have a pretty large failure rate...

I'm sure someone will chime in they have FABULOUS LUCK with TRW, but I don't, so I don't recommend them anymore.

Bearings,...............................TIMKEN
Suspension/Steering,...............MOOG
Ignition,................................MSD (except for 'Street Fire' labled products, I won't use them)
Gaskets,................................Fel-Pro
U joints, caps, straps, U bolts,...SPICER
Lubricants,.............................VALVOLINE

Now, you CAN argue things like Mobile 1 grease, which is GREAT, or Shell Rotella Oil, which is great,
but Valvoline is the ONLY company that anything with their name on it will live up to the claims, work flawlessly, and be 'Correct' each and every time.

There is NOTHING like SPICER U Joints, and the straps, caps, bolts and U bolts that keep your drive shaft/axles working, bar none.
You CAN argue there are 'Super Duper' & 'Bombproof' U joints out there, but they cost $300 each and you can't get replacements at the local auto parts stores on a Sunday afternoon...

There are just some things that WORK EACH AND EVERY TIME OUT OF THE BOX,
And above is a partial list of what I've found that has worked for the past 40 years each and every time...

Valvoline has kept engines alive when no other oil would. (and my old Harleys too!)
The grease, trans lubes, ect. are OUTSTANDING, so why would I risk my hard earned parts dollars on something 'Lesser'?

Timken bearings are absolutely CORRECT each and every time, and they are US Made.
I actually use Timken bearings for gauges they are so accurate! I use them to make sure my MEASURING EQUIPMENT is working correctly!

MOOG has emerged as the 'Dead Nuts On' steering component company for me.
I do race car and performance car suspensions for a living, and MOOG works the first time, every time, with the least amount of 'Slop' compared to the common brands available around here.

I HATE wasting money,
But I like having the parts work the FIRST TIME, EVERY TIME, and this is a list of the companies that still make things that work!

And most of what they make is from right here in the USA, so it's a bonus!


----------------------------------------

I usually don't sand the holes in the knuckle were the ball stud sockets fit into...
It's a PRESS FIT, and I don't want to remove any material...
Just use a little wire brush.

Again, I don't use grease or Never-Seize in the bore for the ball stud on the knuckle.
For the same reason, it's a press fit, and if you add lubricant, you are INCREASING the chance the ball stud socket can pull out of the knuckle.

I might be paranoid, but that DOESN'T MEAN 'MURPHY' ISN'T OUT TO GET ME!
If it's going to happen to someone, it WILL be me!
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Unread 11-30-2011, 06:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeephammer View Post
i usually don't sand the holes in the knuckle were the ball stud sockets fit into...
It's a press fit, and i don't want to remove any material...
Just use a little wire brush.

Again, i don't use grease or never-seize in the bore for the ball stud on the knuckle.
For the same reason, it's a press fit, and if you add lubricant, you are increasing the chance the ball stud socket can pull out of the knuckle.

I might be paranoid, but that doesn't mean 'murphy' isn't out to get me!
If it's going to happen to someone, it will be me!
agreed ^^^^^^^
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Unread 11-30-2011, 09:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Glad to know your contribution to this thread was bragging on your proficiency CSP.

Is that what this really is about for you, a pissing match with me when I post something contradictory to your "proficiency"?

With the right tools, a dose of common sense, and just plain being careful and watchful, anyone can swap balljoints. Lets not turn it into the construction of the next Mars rover.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 08:35 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Is that what this really is about for you, a pissing match with me when I post something contradictory to your "proficiency"?

With the right tools, a dose of common sense, and just plain being careful and watchful, anyone can swap balljoints. Lets not turn it into the construction of the next Mars rover.
Actually, I wasn't posting 'Proficiency',
I was giving part numbers, tool recommendations, tips, ect.

And the point about the 'Right Tools' is what I was making.
You get a 'Tool' from the parts stores,
It's not necessarily the 'Best' tool for the job, but it's the one you have access to.

I was giving some tips on how that tool could be MISUSED, or how that tool might fail the application, and what to do about it.

I don't have a 'perfect' track record, I don't keep count, but my last failure was with the store 'Rental' clamp and a ball stud for a Mercury Sable.
I didn't get the correct top piece in and mangled the threads.
$35 out the window right there in the store, right in front of everyone.

I've put hundreds of ball studs in successfully, I've screwed a few up...
Just giving tips to keep the OP from making the same MISTAKES I made,
Not bragging about the successful ones I've installed...

*IF* you have the 'Correct' tools, and it's MUCH easier with the new machine assembled parts that have nice flat indexing surfaces for the machines to identify and work with with 'Standard' tooling than it is for the older pieces that were hand assembled with 'Custom' tools to adapt the tool to the particular work piece.

On my kit, I've ground one of the collars to work with these angled steering knuckles.
You can't do that with a 'Rental' tool even if you knew how, if you want your money back...
So, taking a page from the Marines, you have to improvise, adapt, overcome with what you get from the 'Rental' place.

If some 'Tips' on how to make that tool work for you upsets you, then I suggest you don't read the tips.
If a piece of duct tape will make the life of the OP easier, then he's welcome to it...

No steering knuckle I've seen from an early 4x4 has a machined lower that is perpendicular to the bore for the ball stud socket,
So the straight spacer collars are NOT going to get a solid seating, and that will make them slide when you crank down on the clamp screw.

If life were 'Perfect', we wouldn't call it 'Hard',
If pigs had wings, we'd call them 'Pork Birds'...
If helping instead of bragging bothers you, then don't read anything I post...
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