Glad to know your contribution to this thread was bragging on your proficiency CSP.
For the rest of us that have Murphy's Law hanging over our heads,
Like I said, you CAN crush the treads or ruin the taper on the stud if you don't have a clamp that clearances these things when you are pushing on the SOCKET BODY during install.
So be aware of that.
Even "professionals" screw that up from time to time...
There is a box of brand new ball studs damaged during install at the local tire and alignment shop, and they do it every day, all day long...
The second thing to look for is the clamp on the bottom side of the socket hole,
The ball studs push through somewhat, so you can't have the clamp right on the hole,
And the area around the hole is NOT perpenducular to the hole!
This will make the 'C' clamp type want to slide when you torque on the screw to push the ball stud in the knuckle.
So it's something to watch for also...
The shops have 'Cup Dies' cut with angled tops, but the ones you get with the 'One Size Fits Nothing' sets will be square cut and won't follow the angle of the clamp.
Strong hands, maybe a vice, will help out a lot,
And positioning the 'C' clamp body against the knuckle will help,
The first reflex is to have the clamp body hanging out in space, but it's better off against the knuckle where it can't twist as you tighten the lead screw pushing the ball stud into it's bore.
Most of those 'C' clamp types have a plunger you can remove from the business end of the lead screw,
That will help clearance the threads when you remove it,
But make SURE you have a long enough collar between ball stud body and the top piece the screw pushes against...
That end piece for the collar often has a smaller hole than the stud,
So if the collar isn't long enough, the threads/taper will contact and deform before you actually push on the socket body...
This is usually what you get for a 'Rental' tool at the parts stores...
And most times, THIS ADAPTER KIT is what you need to make it 'Practical'...
If you get the basic kit, think LONG AND HARD about the way things are going to work as the screw goes in so you don't have mistakes!
If you don't use a lower spacer, the ball stud socket can't seat in the hole.
If you don't use the correct length top spacer tube, you will get into the threads/taper and force the ball into the socket material, causing a failure,
If you use the wrong DIAMETER of tube spacer, you can wind up either pressing on the lip inside, ruining the ball socket,
And if you use one too big, you wind up with the ball stud stuck in the tube instead of installed in the knuckle.
Normally, you only get about a 1/8" lip to press on from the top, so the tube adapter has to be a pretty good fit, If you don't have that fit, then try another store for a different brand of press that might have the correct collar spacer for your ball stud...
Since the parts store 'Rentals' are actually FREE, it's not an issue if you have to swap around a little to get a good fit!
I take my ball studs with me to see if they even have a driver collar that fits before I rent them when I'm doing this out of town and away from my set that DOES have the correct sizes for Jeeps and most other vehicles.
When you get things situated where it will work,
BREAK OUT THE DUCT TAPE and tape the bottom (Socket) side together, and to the press.
Trying to keep about a half dozen loose parts all lined up while you tighten the clamp and hang onto the knuckle is a pain in the azz...
Taping those end block pieces together on the clamp will save you some Juggling!
It also seems to keep the press from slipping as much on the uneven side of the knuckle... and the ball stud will have no problems breaking through tape when it comes through the knuckle...
It don't have to be pretty, it just has to work!
If you want to see these presses in use, do a 'You Tube' search for 'Ball Joint Replacement' and watch a few of the videos...