Bad day for my 258 - Oil Pressur Gone - Page 2 -
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post #16 of 21 Old 12-23-2013, 07:04 AM
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1984 CJ7 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Doylestown, PA
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Spend 20 bucks and drill and tap for an extra 1/8 NPT for a small pressure gauge so you know you have oil pressure or not. Very easy to do and provides a reliable source for reading true oil pressure.

I would not buy the gauge pictured below but get one that is liquid filled as they are more durable and less prone to vibrations and easy to read. I changed mine to a liquid filled after using this one for about two weeks but don't have a picture.

1984 CJ-7 Renegade
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post #17 of 21 Old 12-23-2013, 07:24 AM
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1985 CJ7 
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Originally Posted by 1977redcj5 View Post
Well I put in the new filter and fresh oil 10w40 crossed my fingers and fired the engine. No oil pressure on the gauge and no oil moving under the valve cover and lots of engine noise. Not sure when I'm going to do it, but next step is to drop the pan and hope there isn't a spun bearing and it is just a bad oil pump and not too much damage. If I spun a bearing on the crank does that mean rebuilding the engine?
Start looking for and engine builder.

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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post #18 of 21 Old 12-23-2013, 07:34 AM
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1986 CJ7 
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You need to start thinking about what your goal is here. Do you just want the engine to run again and be useable for awhile? Or are you looking to make it reliable for another 50,000+ miles?

Once upon a time to get rid of a bearing knock I replaced rod bearings with the engine still in, and put in a new oil pump while I had the pan off. It ran just great... for about 8000 miles then the knock started coming back as I expected it would. I was just trying to get by for a while until I could save up money and time. Maybe that is your goal too?
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post #19 of 21 Old 12-30-2013, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge and will be putting that on and testing for pressure before pulling the pan. I hope to pull the pan New Year's Day to see where I am.

My end goal is a really, really good question because I really don't know - this wasn't in the plan. I have had the CJ for about 9 years and my wife is cool and understands the jeep thing even thought she wont wheel with me any more - when one jeep rolls 4 times down a hill right before we almost rolled cured her for trail rides. We have talked about swapping the good parts onto a TJ Rubicon but it just isn't a classic jeep.

These are my options

Option 1 - don't need a rebuild and all is good...this is slim
Option 2 - buy a TJ so I can drive to the trails and not have to tow every time I want to wheel and pull the good parts off my CJ for the TJ - rear ARB, Tires, OBA, front limited slip Bumpers... and sell the carcass or part it.
Option 3 - Wait to find another CJ that is being parted and snag the motor - I hate waiting
Option 4 - invest $1700 on a rebuild which just doesn't seem worth it as I think I'm ready for a different jeep to build

This is her before the rear swing our carrier and locker/LSD

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post #20 of 21 Old 12-30-2013, 05:20 PM
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Before you drop the pan can you spin the oil pump similar to pre oiling a fresh build? That might help you diagnose the problem a bit. The bummer thing is it obviously went metal to metal so the damage is done.
My guess with it being cold is debris jammed the pump or really thick oil cause a shaft/pin/gear to poop the bed.
I am not intimate with the 258 but with other engines that we tried to run after OP loss it was a best an extension of a death sentence.
They all eventually became long stroke ventilated block engines.
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post #21 of 21 Old 12-30-2013, 06:03 PM
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I went for the remanufactured 258 in my YJ. For me it was a good choice, I had no reason to dump that Jeep and it was my daily driver. It's nice having a 'new' motor.

My toys
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