Axles; what prices for various levels of upgrade? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-29-2010, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
Cpolinsky
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Axles; what prices for various levels of upgrade?

I have a 1984 CJ7 amc 150 with t5 transmission. I am in the process of rebuilding a amc 360 with a t176 transmission. I would like to look at options for my Axles. I believe they are 20 and 30's. I would like to know what options I have. I would like to add a 4 inch suspension lift and do everything right. I have read about 44's but I'm really confused about it. I plan on having this as my daily driving but I will be off roading on weekends. Eventually just for weekends but I need it for my DD right now. What would my options be at different price levels. mid range and expensive (I don't want a cheap option just do it right).

Thanks,

Chris

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post #2 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 12:04 AM
only in a jeep cj
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Honestly, do you feel you need to upgrade the axles? I ask as most of the 4 cyl CJs come with 4.10 gears in the axles, so if your doing a motor/transmission swap anyway, add the lift and tires and call it done. You'll have a good DD and still be good off road. Now if you want lockers, etc...Thats another story, but you have the axles and gears, so your way ahead of the game. For reference, I had a late CJ with 33s, the 258/T-5/dana300 and 4.10s in stock dana 30 and Model 20 rear with detroit in rear and true trac in front. I swapped in a 6 bolt front hub and had no troubles off road. It worked very well. Now for larger tires or selectable lockers, I would want the 44s. but in your case.....?

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post #3 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 12:35 AM
jeffyjensen
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i'm a fan of a D60 in the rear, it can handle a lot of abuse. you cn find the pretty cheap, like 200-500 but then you need to shorten it. if you can do that yourself still cheap, a shop $$. a set of new shafts and your good to go.
in the front a D44 is good, really how often are you in 4wd anyways. most chevy axles work or one from a waggy or you can buy a new one from a mag with all the goodies in it.

i'm gonna build my on front D44 and rear D60 behind a ford 351w T-176 and D300 to run 37-38.5's

1980 CJ-5, Ford 351w, in restoration, kind of
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 08:49 AM
CSP
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How can anyone recommend an axle without one mention of tire size?

The Dana 60 comes in several varieties, so a blanket statement about them handling abuse is very shortsighted.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 09:39 AM
kickingprop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
How can anyone recommend an axle without one mention of tire size?
x2. If the OP is only planning on 33's max then the stock axles will probably be fine with a minor upgrades (one piece axles...). But if 37's are in the future then the upgrade is probably necessary.

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Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

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post #6 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 02:54 PM
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjensen View Post
i'm a fan of a D60 in the rear, it can handle a lot of abuse. you cn find the pretty cheap, like 200-500 but then you need to shorten it. if you can do that yourself still cheap, a shop $$. a set of new shafts and your good to go.
in the front a D44 is good, really how often are you in 4wd anyways. most chevy axles work or one from a waggy or you can buy a new one from a mag with all the goodies in it.

i'm gonna build my on front D44 and rear D60 behind a ford 351w T-176 and D300 to run 37-38.5's
wish i lived where this guy did cause 60's around here are at least $900 plus you'll need to rebuild them. i have a rebuilt 360 with mild cam and running stock axles for now with 2.73 gears and as long as i stay out of the throttle some they've held up fine. i think the amc20 rear with one piece axles would hold up pretty well for daily driver and weekend wheeler unless you plan on rock crawling. you could upgrade your front axle shafts if you're worried about it. if you're swapping the front axle and using a 4 inch lift you'll need an axle with spring perches underneath the housing.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 04:26 PM
Jim1611
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There were several things I took into consideration on axles myself. I looked at it like this. If I want to install lower gears and a locker then why spend that money on the dana 20 and 30 when they will need to be upgraded down the road anyway. With a V-8 there's a good chance you'll spin the 2 pc. axles in the 20, seen several happen that way. If you want to run the stock axles as they are fine but I'd switch to something else if you want lower gears and lockers now. Good choices are the dana 44 & 60. The Ford 9" is also a good axle and rivals the strenght of the 60 if you run the 34 spline shafts. Bad thing about the Ford is that OX locker doesn't make anything for them so that narrows down the selectable locker on them.

Also how much money are you willing to spend? Dynatrac and Currie can set you up very nicely but it'll cost a pretty penny.


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post #8 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 06:41 PM
deadeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
How can anyone recommend an axle without one mention of tire size?
Some more info about tire size and type of offroading you plan to do would be a big help here.
I run 33's and still have my 20 and 30 although I have 1 piece axles in the rear and alloy axles in the front. They have held up well for many years now with the type of wheeling we have around here.

83 CJ7, 350 TBI, TH350, Dana 300 twin stick, Dana 44 E-locker, Ford 8.8, Detroit, 4:10 gears, 35x13.5x15s
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-30-2010, 09:50 PM
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I've got a 360 with a mild cam, T150 3 speed and I run a D44 rear and D30 front with 3.73s. Both axles are 100% stock (from a '73 CJ6). When I first swapped the motor (before the rebuild and cam) I had the original D30 front and AMC 20 rear with Moser shafts and 3.54s. The 20 only lasted 2 weeks. Grenaded the spider gears doing a burnout with 33s. I drive the D44 the same way and have had no problems.

The stock axles will get you around if you're easy on the gas and don't go over 33s. If you upgrade I would look into a D44 front (wagoneer, scout, or narrowed Chevy) and for the rear either a D44 (wagoneer, scout) or Ford 9". D60s are strong, but unless you run big tires, you're going to lose a lot of ground clearance.

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-31-2010, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
Cpolinsky
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Hi Guys i'm sorry about not mentioning tire size. I currently have 31 and i'm thinking 33's as what I want. As I plan in rebuilding the engine i'm planning on doing a full resto on the jeep from the frame up. So i've been writting down lots of notes of everything that I want and plan on not cutting corners if it takes me a while it does but at least I know it will be done right with what I want.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-31-2010, 01:10 PM
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If you're never going bigger than 33's then just stick with the stock axles. The D30 can easily handle 33's and a set of 1 pc shafts for the M20 and you should never have any issues (especially if it'll end up being a weekend wheeler seeing mild to moderate trails). If you see yourself doing any rock wheeling and adding lockers, I'd go for the D44's. A locked D30 in the rocks could be asking for trouble.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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alloy axles , alloy shafts , axle , axle housing , axle upgrade , dana 30 , dana 44 , dana 60

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