Let me start by thanking everyone for answears to my questions over the last week or so. Also a HUGE thank you to LSUTiger for the help this weekend!! I bought a set of used widetrac axles off of Craigslist. Amc 20 with one piece shafts, rugged ridge diff cover, detroit locker, tubes welded. Dana 30 Loc Right locker, Chromoly draglink / tie rod with heims. Both have 4.88 gears. They were set up to run SOA. Also ordered a truss from Besrk, which I was more than pleased with. Both Saturday and Sunday were 100 plus degrees outside. Started by cutting the old perches of the axles so that I could set them back to SUA. Got the old front axle out, new one in and caster set to 8. Then tacked the front, pulled it out and finished welds on the perches. Got it painted and reinstalled. After the the rear came out. New rear went in, rear yoke set 2 degrees lower that the tcase yoke, the perches tacked.The only took about 9 hours with a few breaks here and there.
Called it quits around 3pm. Next weekend I am going to switch out breaks, install lines, parking brake and bleed everything. Then flip the tie rod and drag link, drive shafts, install shocks, and axle vent lines. One more day!! Again thanks everyone for the help and the truss Rocks!! Thanks Besrk!
MoC! You Rock! Nice work. Nice shop too! What kind of spring plates are those? Are they factory??
The spring plates are warrior 2.5 inch perches. Since I am running a RE lift with 2.5 fronts and rears I went with the larger perches for the front. I would love to claim the shop but it is not mine. Belongs to a buddy. The hot driveway is mine though!! The only problem I ran in to with the new perches was on the front install. The factory perches are small up front and inset to fit around the pumpkin. With the larger perches I had to grind the inside of one side out to get it to sit flat. The picture is of the old perch before I cut it off. For the truss I also had to relocate the rear axle breather. Took the old on out, welded the hole closed. Drilled a new hole and welded in a compressor fitting. Will post a picture of it tomorrow. Besrk gave me a great tip on drilling the new hole. If you keep the tip of the drill bit loaded up with grease most of the metal filings stick in the grease and stay out of the axle.
Another good tip is to make sure the ground that you are setting the front caster angle and rear driveline angles on is level. I normally do all my work in the backyard, however the concrete area back there was not level so I had to do it in the driveway.
happen to know what type of filler rod the welder used? preheat? postheat?
He Tig'ed the cast nocular to the truss with a silica bronze rod I think. Everything stayed a little warm, maybe in the 200's while welding the truss. No direct post heat. We took about 3 hours total and the weld job, letting the tubes cool so they did not warp.