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Rugged Ridge Bumpers, Winches, Performance from CCOR!JK Front Axle TrussARTEC JK UNDER ARMOR - 4 door Bellypan Kits

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Unread 12-03-2012, 08:10 AM   #31
Big-Jon
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Thanks for all the advice. I am going to stay with what I have except for doing disc up front. I like the look of narrow axles and there seems to be few people with this set up I have been looking online for solid axle kits and have found a few. I also still need to look for a truss. I don't have a welder yet so I can't fab one my self. I also need to figure out why my jeep likes to wander. It only seems to do it on roads that you can see the groves in. Less travled roads like those on the air base it doesn't do it, but the old country roads and those in town that are traveled alot by loggers or tractors she is all over the road. I did notice this morning that I have a little play in the steering wheel about 1.5 inches to get it to get the steering to tighten up right before you start to turn.

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Unread 12-03-2012, 01:03 PM   #32
BigFire
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I suppose I will chime in on the subject. This is mine:





Stock narrow Dana 30 front housing. Stock AMC 20 rear housing. Stock gearing.

BUT

Front has a lunchbox locker and CHROMOLY axles. Chromoly is the key point here. Front also has Warn premium hubs, and Stage 8 hub bolts.

Rear 20 also has chromoly 1 piece axles, and welded gears to lock it. I also welded the axle tubes on the 20 so they can't spin.

Cast iron diff covers (I have Riddlers) or even chromoly ones (like from Crane) will strengthen up the diffs a bit in theory, at the very least protect them better.

That being said, I run 35" BFG Krawlers. I wheel this piss outta this thing on 5+ trails all day long. It just works very well for what it is at the moment, and knock on wood, I have not broken yet. And I follow the super custom buggys on tons, and watch them break as I crawl on by. I am sure my luck will run out, which is why I plan on upgrading to tons in the future, but that will take a lot of $$$.

The biggest thing is how you use the skinny pedal. Don't let the tires bind up, and when they start to, STOP. Pick another line. I am amazed the obstacles I have wheeled through with my set-up. Right now, I am just limited by flex, and I can make it through most things the way it is. But I am either going SOA or linked in the future, and when I change that, I will go with beefier axles.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 02:00 PM   #33
Big-Jon
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Very nice ride. I have a few questions about welding the gears in the rear. Do you notice a big difference in driving on the road? I was wondering what effects it would have in my daily driver? What is a lunch box locker? What gears are you running? Spending a lot of time on the farm has tought me to take things slow and if doesn't work the first time try something else.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 05:46 PM   #34
BigFire
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If it is your daily, don't weld the gears. Driving on the road, you will wear your tires out VERY fast. But that said, driving on the road is fine for me. I rarely get above 60 mph because I am geared low.

A lunch box locker is a cheap easy to install automatic locker that fits right into stock differential carrier. The nickname "Lunchbox" comes from the idea of packing your lunch in a reusable "lunchbox" where you use the same "lunchbox" and pack in a different lunch. The stock carrier is the equivalent of the "lunchbox".
Lunchbox lockers come with advantages and disadvantages. An advantage that comes with these drop-in lockers are the fact that they are generally simple devices and are designed to fit into a stock open carrier or in some cases limited slip carrier, reusing stock parts. Since the ring gear is connected to the carrier and the carrier is reused, the ring and pinion gears generally do not need to be setup again. This makes it much easier for a backyard mechanic to install a drop-in "lunchbox" locker. It also allows the locker to be removed and the stock carrier parts be re-installed putting it back to an open carrier (or Limited Slip). Disadvantages of these types of lockers include the fact that their strength is limited to the carrier they are installed in, which can vary greatly. Their strength is moderate to less than moderate and for the most part support what seems to be up to a 33" tires and a mild amount of abuse before encountering problems and damage. Another disadvantage to a drop-in locker is that some have a more severe locking and unlocking feel over a full carrier locker. For this reason some drop-in locker manufacturers incorporate dampening mechanisms to reduce the backlash and harsh engagement / disengagement creating a smoother operating locker. For many people they are a good candidate for a first "economy" locker on vehicles that are mildly modified with slightly oversized tires. I have never had a problem with my 35's.

Some lunchbox lockers on the market are the Lockright by Richmond, Detroit EZ Locker, and Aussie Locker.

I'm still running stock gears! 3.31's or something high like that. Been awhile since I looked.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 04:47 PM   #35
Big-Jon
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@bigfire thanks for all the info, that helps a lot. I like the stock look of mine and it is 1 of 2 like it in town. I am going to have to put everything on hold unless it brakes. 18 years of military service and 14 yrs of marriage all coming to an end at the same time. So me extra money is going to go to the exwife for awhile. I maybe able to spring for beers and maybe get a buddy to weld my axles. again thanks for all the info from every one that posted.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 02:31 PM   #36
Big-Jon
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OK,
I was doing some reading today on camber adjustment. (dana 30 ) every thing that I read says there is no way to adjust camber on my dana 30 front axle. I was wondering if the disc brake dana 30 has a way to adjust camber.Right now my tire kick out. I think that this is the reason my jeep wants to wonder from side to side. I did figure out how to adjust the steering box, but still have the same problem. thanks for your time and help.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 04:55 PM   #37
BlueRubiconrich
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For setting camber use a dana axle shim www.ingallseng.com
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Unread 12-10-2012, 11:25 AM   #38
Big-Jon
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@BlueRubiconrich thanks for the info. All I was able to was shims for a dana 44. I am going to post pics of it later so people will understand what I am talking about. I was wondering when I put my winch on it will help with it.
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Unread 12-10-2012, 05:38 PM   #39
Big-Jon
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OK,
Here are few pics that I took today. You will notice in one of the pic it has a blue line. What did was covered as much of the as I could and drove it down the road 200 yards and that is what is left. I also took a pic of my measurement and the places they were taken from. Now it is obvious that I have camber problem or maybe a bent axle. Now how do you figure out what shim to buy?
dsc_0382.jpg   dsc_0390.jpg   dsc_0377.jpg  
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Unread 12-10-2012, 11:55 PM   #40
hutch1200
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You don't mind if I steal that, Sir? Had me laughing for a good while!
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Unread 12-11-2012, 02:11 AM   #41
BagusJeep
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Or it is tyre pressures.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 09:15 AM   #42
Cutlass327
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The dirt on the center area of your tread and the clean edges tell me that you are over inflated like Bagus said. Try dropping a few PSI and check it again. Looks like what you are doing is checking tread contact patch. To check caster you would need to have a degree tool and measure the line from the center of the lower ball joint thru the center of the top ball joint. I cheated and put a Harbor Freight magnetic angle finder on the top of my steering knuckle where it is machined and read the angle there while sitting on level flooring. It may not be precise, but it got me where I needed to be for better handling.

The only way to CORRECTLY adjust caster is to remove the steering knuckle "C" from the end of the axle rotate them where you need them, and reweld. This keeps the pinion angle proper for driveshaft geometry. I used a shim between the axle springpads and the springs for mine - I wanted to adjust the pinion angle a little and they seemed to work perfect this way. Camber is non-adjustable, unless you weld the "C" on crooked...
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread 05-02-2013, 01:01 PM   #43
Matt1981CJ7
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Jon,

If we lived closer, I'd come take those horrible 3.54 axles off your hands.

Matt
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Unread 05-02-2013, 01:14 PM   #44
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Camber can be corrected with shims between the spindle and knuckle, depending on how much adjustment is needed. An alignment shop can tell you how far out of spec it is.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 06:10 PM   #45
Cutlass327
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Hmm. I didn't think of that. Does that have any affect on the brakes? I know my 6-bolt brake adapter would have the shims under it, but does the other style work that way too?
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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