Axle ? Good swap? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 26 Old 11-28-2009, 06:34 AM
HackFabrication
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Given what you've stated, I would suggest running the stock Dana 30 front, and getting a Ford 9" for the rear. Dump the money you're going to save on a front axle that you're not going to use, into a nodular, big shaft, disc braked rear axle. Put at set of 4.56 gears in it (or 4.88's if you really want to smoke those 35's), and hang on.


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post #17 of 26 Old 11-28-2009, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
bbc
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Ok, now we are getting somewhere, and i feel i am getting alot of good opinions here.
I know I will have to cut down whatever i decide on.
So far we have these opinions-

1. A 14 Bolt
(Might be a bit Overkill, Dont you think?)

2. A Ford 9"

3. A Dana 60

4. keep the front dana 30
(Although I would like to upgrade this to a 44 for any offroad use i decide on in the future without regretting not upgrading).

Remember I would like to covert whatever to a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
And it needs to have rear disk brakes.

Last edited by bbc; 11-28-2009 at 12:39 PM.
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post #18 of 26 Old 11-30-2009, 09:32 AM
kickingprop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDK View Post
Then if you upgraded to a heavier transmission and transfercase you'd have a bomb-proof Jeep.
Why upgrade the TCase? The Dana300 is more than adequate...

1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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post #19 of 26 Old 11-30-2009, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
bbc
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I don't think anyone said anything about a d300 t-case
????????
I think you started drinkin too early!!!
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post #20 of 26 Old 12-03-2009, 08:27 AM
dr_hunt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbc View Post
Ok, now we are getting somewhere, and i feel i am getting alot of good opinions here.
I know I will have to cut down whatever i decide on.
So far we have these opinions-

1. A 14 Bolt
(Might be a bit Overkill, Dont you think?)

2. A Ford 9"

3. A Dana 60

4. keep the front dana 30
(Although I would like to upgrade this to a 44 for any offroad use i decide on in the future without regretting not upgrading).

Remember I would like to covert whatever to a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
And it needs to have rear disk brakes.
IMO your best option for your plan is a ford 9 inch, trucks and bronco's had the 5x5.5" pattern already. More than strong enough, I have a moser 9 inch in my Gale banks TT sbc '85 Monte Carlo SS, 350 blower pistons, carillo rods, eagle crank, afr 227 competition heads, custom solid roller .630 lift, 228 duration at .050, msd, C&S aerosol billet blow through 850 carb, art carr 4000 stall, trans brake, pg. It's putting down over 1000rwhp at 16psi boost with 13" slicks. Also my boy has a datsun 260z 406 alky injected, runs 8's with big big wheel stands, it runs a 9 inch ford and has since 2002 with no issues ever!!!

That said my jeep cj7 has a 9 inch ford out of a '67 bronco, looks good, easy to install and easily handles hp, and is only a couple of inches wider than the wide track. I changed engine choices and went 406 sbc, 9:1, ported aluminum aftermarket 210cc heads with 2.055/1.6 valves, victor jr, 750dp carb, lunati .507/.525 lift cam, 3500 stall, built th350 and 205 case, 33x12.50x15's with a 6 inch lift. Pretty quick jeep for the street and 4 wheels great.

If your going to rock crawl or serious off road then that is a whole different story.
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post #21 of 26 Old 12-03-2009, 09:08 AM
Bisqwik
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I am in the same boat. I will be running a FI 383 chevy with a NV-4500 and 36" tires. I am working on my axle choices. Not sure what to do yet. The rear I will more than likely get a junkyard 9” out of a van (big drums). 50 to 100 bucks. Run down a guy in town with a jig. Line up and weld maybe a 100 bucks. New air locker, 35 spline axles, gear and break stuff. I am sure I will be around. 2150. I will save close to a grand doing this.
You can call this place John's Industries. 9" Ford Bolt In Housings and Axles . For 800 get axels and housing. Brakes 280 to 380 new disk of drum. They will build you a complete or go here and get this REBF9-486DET-31 - DIFFERENTIAL,THIRD MEMBER - NO WRNTY OVER 33 , 9 4.86w/DETROIT LOCKER , 31 SPLINE . . You would have a new set up for $2200.00 You could re-spline axles and save money. If you were staying out of 4 low I would say go for it.

The front axle I am still working on it. I pretty sure I will use a Detroit locker. 9” or a DANA 44. I might try to get the correct ends and build my own 9”. Still checking.
John

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post #22 of 26 Old 12-03-2009, 09:13 AM
dr_hunt
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I have the jig to narrow 9 inch 10 bolt, 12 bolt and dana 60's. Located in NM for anyone interested in having one fabricated. NM registered professional engineer, mig, tig and certified welding available.
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post #23 of 26 Old 12-03-2009, 11:52 AM
kw89425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bisqwik View Post
I am in the same boat. I will be running a FI 383 chevy with a NV-4500 and 36" tires. I am working on my axle choices. Not sure what to do yet. The rear I will more than likely get a junkyard 9 out of a van (big drums). 50 to 100 bucks. Run down a guy in town with a jig. Line up and weld maybe a 100 bucks. New air locker, 35 spline axles, gear and break stuff. I am sure I will be around. 2150. I will save close to a grand doing this.
You can call this place John's Industries. 9" Ford Bolt In Housings and Axles . For 800 get axels and housing. Brakes 280 to 380 new disk of drum. They will build you a complete or go here and get this REBF9-486DET-31 - DIFFERENTIAL,THIRD MEMBER - NO WRNTY OVER 33 , 9 4.86w/DETROIT LOCKER , 31 SPLINE . . You would have a new set up for $2200.00 You could re-spline axles and save money. If you were staying out of 4 low I would say go for it.

The front axle I am still working on it. I pretty sure I will use a Detroit locker. 9 or a DANA 44. I might try to get the correct ends and build my own 9. Still checking.
John
when you come up with a plan for the front i would like to know i have the same problem. thanks
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post #24 of 26 Old 12-03-2009, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
bbc
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Sounds like a 9" is the way to go if your planning on big HP and mostly street use. I will certainly look into this as it fits my mostly street build.
Now, we just need to figure out a front axle 9" or 44?
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post #25 of 26 Old 12-03-2009, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Found this! might be the ticket.
Currie Enterprises Jeep 9 inch Rear Ends
and
Currie Enterprises Jeep 9 Inch Front Ends
Now, the question is high Pinion or not?
with 35" tires and a 4 lift sua
Whats your opinions on high pinions on this application?
will high pinion be beneficial for street use?
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post #26 of 26 Old 12-04-2009, 09:30 AM
kickingprop
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High pinion will be nice because it will lessen the angle the driveshaft has to drop down, but from a clearance standpoint, it wont really matter unless you are on the rocks a lot. I feel like I read a thread a long time ago on pirate or something about the HP 3rd members having strength issues though with high HP motors. You might want to see about getting the nodular 3rd member if you can find one. I believe they are the strongest.

Also check out Spidertrax for custom made 9" setups.

Spider 9

1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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