ARB Locker CJ 5 1974 Dana 30 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-13-2009, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
Fireman101
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ARB Locker CJ 5 1974 Dana 30

I would like to install a locker for my CJ with the Dana 30 front and 44 rear 3:73 gears. I drive my jeep several days a week in the summer so I wanted to go with ARB Air lockers so that I can dis-engage when on the pavement. I like to trail ride and I have had the need for a locker. Nothing too crazy just mountain trails that can get tough. My questions are: Is ARB the best way to go for this application? Who is the most cost effective vendor to use? What is the estimated install time for such a part including the air? Any better ideas?

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post #2 of 11 Old 07-13-2009, 05:20 PM
OldSailor
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The ARB is a good choice for the front in your use. Re price, just shop around - get a couple offroad mags and check with all the suppliers, as well as places like FWDH and Quadratec. Install time will vary, depending on your experience. Actually, the most difficult and time consuming part will be taking the hubsa/brakes apart and getting the spindles off. It's a good idea to check all the bearings (wheel bearings, spindle bearings) while you have them off. Of course, you're going to have to set up the ring and pinion engagement after you install the locker. If you haven't done that before, I'd strongly suggest getting an experienced person to help you or get it done professionally.

Also, I'd get the rear axle locked up before doing the front axle.

1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc.
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-13-2009, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
Fireman101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSailor View Post
The ARB is a good choice for the front in your use. Re price, just shop around - get a couple offroad mags and check with all the suppliers, as well as places like FWDH and Quadratec. Install time will vary, depending on your experience. Actually, the most difficult and time consuming part will be taking the hubsa/brakes apart and getting the spindles off. It's a good idea to check all the bearings (wheel bearings, spindle bearings) while you have them off. Of course, you're going to have to set up the ring and pinion engagement after you install the locker. If you haven't done that before, I'd strongly suggest getting an experienced person to help you or get it done professionally.

Also, I'd get the rear axle locked up before doing the front axle.
Thanks for the info....why the back locker first?
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-13-2009, 07:03 PM
mmerlina
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I did almost exactly what you are doing for the exact same reasons, only I went with the 4.10's.

I put together a "shopping list" of the stuff I wanted including the ring/pinion, install kits.. arb compressor, lockers front & rear, everything.. and I sent it to several online shops. The people that came back with the best price were Northridge 4x4 in WA. http://www.northridge4x4.com/ -- I think the guy's name was Dave?

Anyway, I offered to pay him with a money order to avoid credit card fees and he was a good amount lower than much of his competition out there, and he knew what he was talking about. I ended up with Yukon gears.

I'd say shop around, but definitely include him in your search. Good luck! Oh and btw what you are thinking of doing is damn expensive. Parts are expensive, and finding someone that knows what they are doing and willing to basically stop their shop for a couple days is expensive.

If I had to do it again, I would.. cause my CJ is a monster out there now.

Mike

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Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-13-2009, 07:53 PM
adamsclarke
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Lock the rear first. Your rear axle is stronger and doesn;t have to deal with steering joint and ball joints etc. Your rear axle will have an easier time pushing you up a rock....vs...your front axle pulling you over a rock. You'd be surprised where a locked rear can go.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-14-2009, 08:59 AM
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Another vote for the rear first. In addition to the reasons mentioned a front axle with the ARB locked on any hard surface is very difficult to turn. It acts like a spool, so there is no give whatsoever.

Since the front hubs are unlocked when you're just driving around a better choice for the front may be a normal locker like a Detroit. That said, I do have an ARB in the front of my CJ (not a Dana 30 though).
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-14-2009, 09:20 AM
kickingprop
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If you are running a stock motor lunchbox locker in the front wouldnt be a bad option either. should be plenty strong for a stock 258 or 304 (dont know what you are running) and then run a selectable in the rear. A Detroit is a great option and is bulletproof. but could be considered overkill for a dana 30, especially if you are only running 31-32" tires. An Aussie would save you some money and be plenty strong.

x2 on the Selectable in the rear though. ARB and OX both get great reviews on here and either would probably meet all your needs.

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-17-2009, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-19-2009, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have researched both the ARB and the OX since I want to be able to dis-engage the locker. I kinda like the mechanical OX better. Less money, less things to go wrong. No compressor or air line. Anyone else have the OX?
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-19-2009, 05:39 PM
mmerlina
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I thought along those exact same lines when I was researching what to buy for my rig. As far as the money goes, they are both pretty close. Most companies sell the OX locker without the $80-$100 cables you need to engage them.. so make sure you check that out.

I've had the ARB for a while and I've never had a problem with the compressor. I ran the rear air line along the axle and into the frame, popping out up front directly under the compressor.. so there's almost no chance I can sheer the air line. I also covered the parts that run into the frame with that black wire cover stuff so it won't chafe.

I'm not trying to sell you one way or the other, just trying to let you know that the arb compressor is very reliable and solid, that there are hidden costs involved, and that there are easy ways to protect the air lines.

Good luck!

Mike

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Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-21-2009, 07:27 PM
jeepdaddy2000
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Might also think about a Powr Lok or Tru Trac up front. Very good LS units and much less than an ARB. The PL is very strong and will go a long way towards helping hold the front diff together.
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