Applying heat to front hub? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-29-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
row684
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Applying heat to front hub?

I have studs in my front hubs that are red lock-tighted in and need to replace one... Can I put the little propane torch to the outside of the hub to release the lock tight without starting the grease on the inside on fire?

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post #2 of 11 Old 01-29-2013, 07:35 PM
bear991
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heat on wheel studs

Yes you can just don't get it red hot. Wheel bearing grease has a high flash point due to the nature of what it does
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 05:39 AM
jeepdaddy2000
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If you are talking about the wheel studs, they are pressed into the hub. To remove them, you will either have to use a press or drive them out with a hammer. If you use a hammer to remove/install them, the hub should be removed, and the area around the stud supported during the operation.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear991
Yes you can just don't get it red hot. Wheel bearing grease has a high flash point due to the nature of what it does
Thank you I will keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Bear, thanks just what I needed to know.

JeepDaddy no I'm talking about the 4wd hub bolts, I replaced them with studs and used red lock tight on them and now need to replace one because I screwed up the threads being an idiot... Lol It's a real easy upgrade and looks pretty cool afterwards to.
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 07:21 PM
bear991
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You've probably already done it by now ,but how I do it is I put a old lug nut on the stud heat it some and with a big brass drift or punch and a decent size hammer(BFH) knock the crap out of it
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-02-2013, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear991
You've probably already done it by now ,but how I do it is I put a old lug nut on the stud heat it some and with a big brass drift or punch and a decent size hammer(BFH) knock the crap out of it
Thanks that's how I do those to, but I was talking about the bolts that hold the locking hubs on, I replaced the bolts with studs and lock tight, then screwed up the threads... I didn't actually need to use heat on it it came right out with vise grips.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 07:07 AM
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If those are factory lockout hubs they are made of pot metal, I would be very careful applying heat to the bolts. The better way would to put an impact wrench to the bolts, the hammers on a good impact wrench should be able to break loose the red locktight bond before breaking the bolts.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 08:32 AM
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Wonder how many more suggestions this thread will get before people figure it out that the job is done.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
row684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
Wonder how many more suggestions this thread will get before people figure it out that the job is done.
Lol or the part about them being studs instead of bolt to hold on the locking hub.

Seriously though thanks for the help guys turned out to be to simple a job to bother you all for your time.
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 02:49 PM
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LOL Funny

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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