Anyone Scratch Build All or Part of CJ Wiring Harness??

**turbonusse2** · 07-05-2012, 06:16 PM

I was looking to redo some of the wireing in my jeep especially in the engine bay and the amount that I am looking to redo would mean all of the engine bay rewired and part of the in cab wiring. Is it possible to scratch build a wiring harness or would it be chaper to buy a new one. I understand the time that would go into a scratch built harness but i like making things exactly how I want them. any input is appriciated.

**keith460** · 07-05-2012, 06:36 PM

If you do the Nutter Bypass or add a Weber carb, there is quite a bit of wiring that can be removed. It took me several days to eliminate the extra wiring that was no longer needed once the MCU was removed and a Weber carb was installed. Takes time to cut and splice wiring, solder the ends and using heat shrink to make it look professional. Plus, dedicated grounds will add some custom wiring along with relays for the headlight circuit.

I don't know if your wiring has been hacked to death by a PO and is the reason you are thinking that you need to start fresh, but I would try to save what you have if it isn't that bad. There are lots of special connections and lamp holders that are very hard to find in the aftermarket world.

First couple of pictures is what I started with and the bottom is the end result. Picture of the MCU and its wiring is what got removed and was no longer needed.

**turbonusse2** · 07-05-2012, 06:39 PM

Yeh the wiring is hacked up and many of the wires are too short to do anything with then just run them the shortest root

**turbonusse2** · 07-05-2012, 06:40 PM

Is there somewhere I can just buy the engine side of the fuse box and male spade connectors and at least redo that part?

**keith460** · 07-05-2012, 06:46 PM

I saw an engine wiring harness for a 1984 CJ in the Classified section of this forum.

82JeepCJ7 · 07-05-2012, 10:28 PM

I've basically done what you are suggesting on mine. I used the drawing done by John Strenk.

Since I went to a HEI distributor, I was able to eliminate almost all the excess wiring and now have just the bare bones needed to make it run.

I have since moved the starting solenoid up under the battery tray away from the exhaust manifold. My goal was to get the solenoid off the fender and eliminate about 6' of unneeded wire, as well as cleaning up the engine compartment.

**John Strenk** · 07-06-2012, 03:14 AM

The only hard part is you have to buy many rolls of different colored wires. Trust me, you don't want to use one color wire in your whole harness.

You can get many of the terminals at NAPA. They are easy to pull out and replace.

Start here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ba...arted-1340134/

82JeepCJ7 · 07-06-2012, 06:15 AM

I was a helicopter avionics tech in the Army and we had a tool for marking wires that was basically a tool you put numbers or letters into and then they would get hot and you could then stamp the wire with a code. We would do that when replacing a wire in a harness on any given helicopter. Trust me, there is miles of wire inside a military helicopter, and they are all white.......

I wonder if you could find one that is surplus... I wish I could remember the nomenclature.

**John Strenk** · 07-06-2012, 07:03 AM

Like a "hot stamp wire marker"?

teh603 · 07-06-2012, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7

I have since moved the starting solenoid up under the battery tray away from the exhaust manifold. My goal was to get the solenoid off the fender and eliminate about 6' of unneeded wire, as well as cleaning up the engine compartment.

You sure you want the solenoid in an area where a battery leak could dump acid all over it? The only way I'd do it is to switch to a Mazda Miata battery that has the little vents and hoses that direct the aid down and out instead of into the compartment.

**John Strenk** · 07-06-2012, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teh603

You sure you want the solenoid in an area where a battery leak could dump acid all over it? The only way I'd do it is to switch to a Mazda Miata battery that has the little vents and hoses that direct the aid down and out instead of into the compartment.

Ever price one of those batteries? I got one like that in my P...us and it's $180 to $220

That solenoid really doesn't look to much further away from the exhaust manifolds though.

**hutch1200** · 07-06-2012, 09:14 AM

I have to move the solenoid the same way. Tilt nose is causing alot of "relocation" issues.

82JeepCJ7 · 07-06-2012, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Strenk

Like a "hot stamp wire marker"?

Yup, just like that.

The solenoid ended up about 10" away from the manifold. I do plan on building a heat shield between it and the manifold. I'm not worried about the battery leaking on it. That battery is in there just to get it going. I am replacing it with a Optima.

**turbonusse2** · 07-06-2012, 09:45 AM

Anyone know about how much those hot wire stamp maker things are?

mminorhsd · 07-06-2012, 11:18 AM

The CJ7 I bought a couple of months ago to restore and have fun with, had no gauges that worked. I looked under the hood and saw a bunch of cut off wires just hanging around. One, by one I have rewired the gauges and have everything working except the fuel gauge. That one is next on the list. I looked are a wiring harness, but it was too expensive for me to consider.