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Unread 08-20-2014, 09:54 PM   #1
burley
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Anyone running 24V Headlights? Need 12V>24V help

I came across an extremely well priced used set of military truck-lite LED headlights. They were $39/each so I'm not in very deep.

What do I need to get these running at full brightness? I've done some reading about dual batteries for halogen headlights which draw much more power.

Anyone have experience with 24V LED's on a CJ? Im not going to run 2 batteries just for a set of headlights, so Im hoping for some sort of electrical wizardry I guess. Thanks,

-mike

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Unread 08-20-2014, 10:20 PM   #2
PanteraPilot
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Well, I'll put in my two cents, but I'm not an expert here to be completely honest. In basic electronics theory, one can step-up the voltage from 12 volts to 24 volts. In doing this, your available current will be cut in half. That may or may not be enough power to supply to the lights (I don't know what their power requirements are in AMPS). I also don't know where you will find a step-up transformer. The flip side, which you said you don't want to do, is to wire two 12 volt batteries in series, but then you not only have to buy 2 more batteries, you need a way to charge them. Post your results, I'll be curious.
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Unread 08-20-2014, 10:35 PM   #3
burley
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Ebay sells some step up boosters for cheap: http://tinyurl.com/n2c6ayk

I'm hoping that since they're LEDs, they wont require as many amps and I can squeak by on 1 battery. I'll keep scratching around in the dirt.

Specs from TL's old catalog:

Material:
• Hard Coated Polycarbonate Lens
• Anodized Aluminum Housing
• Metalized Reflector
• Encapsulated circuitry
Light Source:
• 10 Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs)
• 12v Designed at 12.8v
4.5a (High) / 2.5a (Low)
• 24v Designed at 28.0v
1.5a (High) / 0.6a (Low)
Additional Specifications:
• Operating Temperature Range:
-50˚C to 70˚C
• Overvoltage spike protection to
600v
• Constant output
*See ITAR/EAR terms at bottom of page
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Unread 08-20-2014, 11:40 PM   #4
BagusJeep
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They are quite doable. the usual question on military vehicles is how to convert it all to 12 Volts so that off the shelf parts can be used but there is a lot about 24V systems that is desirable. Modern military Landrovers have two alternators, two sets of batteries and a seperate 12V and 24V system but they are carrying a lot of electronics.

You need to look at the LEDs and work out what the current draw on them is. It will not be all that much (I expect 3 to 6 Amps) but before you buy a step up transformer you need to know the maximum current draw.

I would then install just a step up transformer with a dedicated wiring harness back to the solenoid and the earth strap. You can put in an ordinary 12V relay and a suitably rated fuse. The 12V relay allows you to use 12V to control it, even if you have a 24V current flowing through the other side to the lights. However I would wire it as 12V all the way to the lights and have the step up transformer close to the lights. You could even have two step up transformers in parallel or serving different lights but if I thought of putting them in parallel and two would work and one would burn I would put in a fuse at each transformer to prevent damage.

You will not need a second battery, the current draw will be well within the capacity of your system. It may be capable on an ordinary day of handling 20-25 Amps of constant draw and I doubt you are using more than 10-15 with the stereo and headlights.

The transformers you gave highligted are Chicomm made, the Chinese characters give them away. Up to you but I woudl not expect them to last for long on a 4x4, perhaps buy some spares as well.
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Unread 08-20-2014, 11:43 PM   #5
PanteraPilot
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Ok. That looks as if it will work…but no guarantee. It has a 3 amp max capacity, so if the lights draw more that 3amps total, it won't work. Check the specs on the LED lights and see what the current draw is.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 12:00 AM   #6
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While I have no idea how to do what you want, I will second the fact that 2 batteries are not a bad idea, some would say they are great idea, others would say almost manditory.........from a dedicated back up when the primary goes dead, to a dedicated winch battery, to a dedicated jump battery, to running lights for camping, to being able to weld, to just having redundancy of a back up so you do not need to be jumped......running 24 volt items, having more cold cranking amps for longer, to being able to drive further longer if the alt dies.....

Other than the initial cost of the battery,some relays, isolators, wire etc and some time doing the install....there is no downside....but there is a cost and time to do it.


I am considering doing the upgrade to 2 batteries here soon.......I believe Jeephammer has a good write up on running 2 batteries and the many ways to use them.....worth a look since you will be buying some stuff and doing some wiring anyway....worth a read anyway for the basic electrical information even if not going with 2 batteries.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 12:06 AM   #7
burley
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Great info guys, thanks!

TL brochure says the following:

• 24v Designed at 28.0v
1.5a (High) / 0.6a (Low)

0.6a (x2) 1.2amps total draw for low beams and 3 amp for highs? My high beam switch hasn't worked in 20 years, so I'm not too concerned about them maxing out.

So if I'm understanding correctly, I should be safe?
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Unread 08-21-2014, 05:38 AM   #8
grasmo
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have you tried them at 12v to see how they perform?
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Unread 08-21-2014, 09:18 AM   #9
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There is also a 10A version of the regulator that I would use instead 3A rated may get very hot if you approach 3A. Search for 24V step up regulator on Amazon and you should find several that are 10A output for about 30 dollars.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 09:45 AM   #10
burley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatsCJ5
There is also a 10A version of the regulator that I would use instead 3A rated may get very hot if you approach 3A. Search for 24V step up regulator on Amazon and you should find several that are 10A output for about 30 dollars.
Thanks! Then I won't have to worry about maxing when using high beams.

Interesting, the newer TL military lights use "9v-33v multivolt design which operates in both 12v and 24v systems without adjustment"
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Unread 08-21-2014, 09:46 AM   #11
burley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grasmo
have you tried them at 12v to see how they perform?
I haven't received them yet.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 09:57 AM   #12
PatsCJ5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burley View Post
Thanks! Then I won't have to worry about maxing when using high beams.

Interesting, the newer TL military lights use "9v-33v multivolt design which operates in both 12v and 24v systems without adjustment"
This way they only have to have one part # for both applications (12V & 24V). The LED doesn't operate at 12V anyway so the older version also had an internal regulator that only accepted a narrower range of input voltage. It is somewhat surprising that the wide range was not the original design.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 10:08 AM   #13
burley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatsCJ5
There is also a 10A version of the regulator that I would use instead 3A rated may get very hot if you approach 3A. Search for 24V step up regulator on Amazon and you should find several that are 10A output for about 30 dollars.
Here's a 10A.

Generic 240W power Converter DC 12V to 24V 10A Boost Step-up Car Power Module Waterproo... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DR4EYTO/..._DWG9tb1FZ8NGJ



Thanks for the heads up.
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Unread 08-21-2014, 10:22 AM   #14
burley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatsCJ5
This way they only have to have one part # for both applications (12V & 24V). The LED doesn't operate at 12V anyway so the older version also had an internal regulator that only accepted a narrower range of input voltage. It is somewhat surprising that the wide range was not the original design.
I sent a similar question to the military sales director of Truck Lite in an email last night and he got back to me this morning. He claims the older lights like I bought are only for 24V (won't convert internally like new ones) and I should buy the newer set for 12V vehicles.


They offered 2 older versions of 12V and 24V headlights to military so it makes some sense. I'm still going to try them at 12V to see what happens.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 10:26 AM   #15
burley
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Hooked them up and got nothing.. I think I'll sell this set and get a 12V version to make life simple.
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