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Any downside to going with a Jeep T-18 w/4:02 1st??

1K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  jeepdaddy2000 
#1 ·
I recently acquired a low mileage Jeep T-18/dana 20 with the 4.02 1st gear. Is there any downside to using this tranny other than I don't have the 6.32:1 1st gear? I can still get the short shaft from PartsMike and it still is FAR better than my present T-150. It still is the same bullet-proof T-18 right?
 
#2 ·
Yup. The closed ratio model can be a little nicer onroad, since you can use first to launch if you are pulling a load. The only thing you need the 6.3 for is if you plan on doing some wheeling that requires a compound low. Other than that, the trannies are are just as strong.
 
#3 ·
How do you tell what ratio 1st gear is on a T-18?

It's on the shop bench
 
#4 ·
MeCasa said:
How do you tell what ratio 1st gear is on a T-18?

It's on the shop bench
Put it in first gear; turn the output shaft; count how many turns it takes to get the input shaft to turn once. You should get either 4 or 6 turns to get the input to turn once.
 
#6 ·
I've this same set-up waiting to be installed. I was told it was the wide ratio, but when I got home it was the close ratio. Which I am thinking is really the best of both worlds, its lower gear ratio than the T-150. But not as low as gear to have to decide between Too slow and too fast.

Give us a update on what you've done/modified to get that in the jeep. I am waiting for maybe a winter project for this one.

Chvymn99
 
#7 ·
My brother had a close ratio T-18 in a 68 CJ-5 V6 with 3.73 gears. It was a nice setup and very nice for both on and off road driving . Third gear was very useful--about the same ratio as 3rd in a T-176/177. Sometimes the 6.32 low T-18 is too low especially when driving in beach sand.
 
#8 ·
John N said:
Put it in first gear; turn the output shaft; count how many turns it takes to get the input shaft to turn once. You should get either 4 or 6 turns to get the input to turn once.
First things first, is this the correct shifter for a T-18? I bought the 18 years ago for another jeep and never used it, when I bought it I had it shipped from Wisconsin, it arrived without the shifter and when I called they shipped it later, the bottom is square



Can't seem to make it shift

PS: The T-18 was rebuilt and they did a first class job on that part so I'm hoping they were honest and this is the right shifter
 
#10 ·
Well pull the damn stick and tell me if I have the right one
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, you helped me a lot. I have an extra T-150 in the shop and somehow the sticks got mixed up when they were put on the shelf

The T-18 stick was stuck in the T-150, gotta admit, it scaired the hell outa me when I thought I had a tranny with no stick

Thanks a lot :)

hfjeff said:
For the CJ you remove the spacer. PartsMike sells a short input shaft to replace the longer one used in the truck. So it won't be much longer than my current T-150/D20.
About 4" +/-, you slide the tranny skid back to the extra set of holes and that is the correct position, you then have to rework both drive shafts and possibly some linkage work. I'm not sure if the tranny mounts are the same for the T-150 and the T-18 as I have everything ready but I'm doing the tranny last so I can rework the shafts to the new 'average' position the truck will sit after the lift brings it up and the weight of the cage/winch etc. brings it back down. Novak also sells a short shaft, with throw out bearing it's $220 and a gentleman by the name of Eric is a tranny whiz

Thanks again
 
#17 ·
OK, I did good, they even taped a new pin on the shifter

But I'm having a hard time getting it put together, everything is new so It's not the tranny, I guess that leaves me :dunno:

How far down (in) does the shifter need to go to seat, the most I can get is 1?4" + above the threaded flange height, then I add the spring and the two cups and try to screw the cup down, but it won't go :confused:

Am I not seating correctly? Am I doing something wrong in the part sequence or is there more parts? Or do I just need to try harder

Thanks
 
#18 ·
Look down the top of the tower and insure that the rail notches are all aligned. If not, then take a large flat screwdriver and pop the offending rail back up till they all are aligned. Drop the shifter straight down so the end fits in the notches. Install the centering pin(being carefull not to drop the pin into the trans case) and replace the lid.
 
#19 ·
I guess i'm doing it right, pretty stout spring and I'm afraid of stripping the thread

I might get someone to help me keep pressure as I twist

Already WD'd everything to the point it's starting to affect the BBQ I'm cookin'

OK, OK, when I said I'd washed my hands I may have been 'elaboratin'

Damn, ya'll are picky :rolleyes:
 
#20 ·
While I'm thinking about it, I don't believe there is a source for the closed ratio T18 short input shaft. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
#21 ·
Closed ratio meaning what?,

If the top tranny gear in has 17 splines a short kit is available, you got 23, you got trouble

Is this what you mean?
 
#22 ·
My shifter sits about 1/8" below the threaded flange. I can easily turn the cover on by hand without force.

I have not called PartsMike yet but read his technical page. It sounds as though he carries a short shaft for either, but like I said I have not called to confirm. Here is a technical page he has about the T-18 and his short shaft kits:

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/t18%20ford%20and%20jeep.htm
 
#23 ·
hfjeff said:
My shifter sits about 1/8" below the threaded flange. I can easily turn the cover on by hand without force.

I have not called PartsMike yet but read his technical page. It sounds as though he carries a short shaft for either, but like I said I have not called to confirm. Here is a technical page he has about the T-18 and his short shaft kits:

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/t18%20ford%20and%20jeep.htm
Thanks for the reply on the shifter, mine definetely won't drop down that far so I'll back off until I have the short shaft installed. I'm going to have it professionally installed as my knowledge on tranny's and differentials extends to 'boltin' em in'

As for the 23, I may have assumed that there was no shaft for the 23 as the Novak gentlemen on the phone told me to 'go count splines and pray for 17'

Luckily, I had 17, never did ask him what he meant :D

Thanks
 
#24 ·
He may have only implied that the 17 spline is the preferred tranny. However I have talked with Eric from Novak in the past about other tranny options and he was very helpful and knowledgeable. I will probably have mine bench-rebuilt also, and have the short shaft done at that time. I do most of my own work but also draw the line at tranny/tcase rebuilds. Also nice to have the warranty on the work. Good Luck.
 
#25 ·
MeCasa said:
Closed ratio meaning what?,

If the top tranny gear in has 17 splines a short kit is available, you got 23, you got trouble

Is this what you mean?
The 4 to 1 is the "closed ratio" trans. It uses a 23 tooth input shaft. If memory serves, this is a hard shaft to find the short configuration. The wide(6.3) input uses 17 teeth and is much easier to find.
 
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