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Another 401 build and discussion thread....

17K views 183 replies 22 participants last post by  CSP 
#1 ·
Since I don't want to derail-highjack someone else's build thread I'm going to start my own.

1) My 401 spun a bearing and is done....

2) This will be my first individual build...

3) I'm new to AMC and their idiosyncrasies...IE oil pressure and drain back issues I've read about

4) Call me stubborn, but I'm not gonna take, what I feel could be, the easy route and drop a SBC into it.

The CJ (see profile for specs) is going to remain primarily an occasional daily driver that I want to be reliable and capable of moderate off road use.

The PO did the 304-401 swap and the 401 appears to be all OE. Based on the block (3198951) and head (3216090) appears to be of the '73-'74 vintage....which goes with the build tag on the valve covers (606Z21), which I'm told translates to June 21, 1973... Z denotes 401.

That being said, my research for similar builds had led me come up with this "preliminary" spec sheet:

Providing the bore just needs a hone, new .std pistons. I'm undecided on brand, thinking cast will do......I want to keep the comp around 9:1 (8.5:1 is stock I believe)

Re-use stock forged rods if possible.

I'm assuming the crank will need to be turned .010, will deck the block as needed, and hope to balance the rotating assembly.

Heads will be rebuilt...port matched

Edelbrock Performer Intake (EDL-3731)

Unsure on carb just yet...Holley TA 670...?

And for the most important, most debated piece...the cam. As of right now I'm leaning towards a Comp Cams XE256H kit from Summit, mainly because it comes with lifters, valve seals, timing and roller kit ect.....

MSD HEI with 6AL

....and of course all new bearings - seals - hoses and gaskets.

I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things, but that's basically it.

 
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#142 ·
Pulled the top/full doors off earlier this week in anticipation of gettting this thing up and running soon:



Looking to get some seat covers, carpet kit, sport bar padding and bikini on it shortly.

Had to stop by the shop this morning and drop something off...snapped these pics. Should be putting spark to this thing in the next day or two:





 
#149 ·
I sure like what you did with your air cleaner assembly and I couldn't agree more. I did a much less professional looking version on my old Blazer years ago. I screwed up and removed the plastic "chingaso" in the grill and it ended up soaking my filter in a rain storm so don't do that, lol.

Getting close :thumbsup:


Shawn
 
#151 ·
FUUUUUUUUU.............!!!!!!!!

How did I forget this:



Fortunately all Ive done is just bolt it to the tranny and secure the motor mounts. Im thinking I can undo the tranny bolts and MMs at the block and just slide the motor forward about an inch...?
 
#152 ·
I would sure try to fish it in the way you have in mind. I think I would try it with the starter hole on the drivers side so the hole rotates under the engine, not up over.
 
#153 ·
Pretty much just pulled it off the tranny and MMS....inserted plate and reinstalled motor. Back on track now.

Painted and installed manifolds, mounted MSD box and ordered all new 0/1 and 4g wire for my power leads and grounds....hope that arrives today/tomorrow.

I found the CL ad from when I bought the CJ and discovered that the waterpump was a brand new Flow Kooler...which is why it felt so light when I removed it (isnt OE cast?) and the timing cover was new as well :)
 
#158 ·
You must be a youngster, if you still celebrate birthdays. I try to forget mine. ;)
You might as well go dual batteries while you're making cables. :thumbsup:
Matt
Wouldnt say Im young, but I sent out my Summit Wish list:

bikini - seat covers - roll bar padding....

...so Im hoping to cash in on this.

Dual Batts would we cool, but I really dont have the "need" for them...but then again I didnt "need" a 401 either :teehee:
 
#161 ·
UBERK said:
Anyone think this is a good/bad idea.... Its a 3/8 G8 stud (brass nut/washers) that will have the block (4g) alt (4g) and battery (0/1g) to it and that's 4g looping over to the frame. Ill also be doing 0/1G from it to the tub....
Wouldn't it be better to ground from the frame to the top side of the motor mount instead of the bottom side of the mount.
 
#170 ·
OK, Im feeling a little overwhelmed right now with this thing...

This is what I have of the oe wiring harness and Im pretty sure I dont need to keep this entire mess with the MSD... I know I need the terminal ends S/I for the solenoid and the main power, but the rest of this rats mess is frustrating me. I looked and couldnt find a decent copy of a '76 wire harness.





 
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