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Unread 01-07-2014, 07:54 AM   #31
benullman
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UBERK,

Do you still have the factory choke heater tubes? If so I will buy them off you if you would like to sell them.

Doing a completely stock rebuild and need them!

Ben

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Unread 01-07-2014, 08:06 AM   #32
iluvcowjuice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UBERK View Post
Wanting to swap to 82-86' front shock mounts as well.....if I can find any. A local 4X4 makes a nice aftermarket set which I might opt for, then slap on some 5100's.
Ford shock towers are a cheap upgrade in strength with more travel.
http://www.in2jeep.com/fordshockmt.htm
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:34 PM   #33
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
UBERK,
Do you still have the factory choke heater tubes? If so I will buy them off you if you would like to sell them.
Sorry, just sold the OE intake today and sent them with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcowjuice View Post
Ford shock towers are a cheap upgrade in strength with more travel.
I did the F250 towers on my K5, they work well and are inexpensive...$35 locally for the set from a dealer. Heres the link to the instsall on my K5: http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4639

....takes a bit more work than whats needed on a CJ, but I loved the extra travel. I also added 64" rear leafs at the same time, that ride was really plush for a full size straight axle SUV

A local shop makes these:



...which Ill probably end up going with....at some point.
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Unread 01-10-2014, 12:04 PM   #34
UBERK
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Since the CJ is down for a motor rebuild there are a few other small projects I'm going to do, like replacing some 38 year old mounts....

Got the body kit and trans mount in today:



Old v New...



I'll be grabbing all new G8 hardware this weekend to install it.

I had a brain fart when ordering the motor mounts though and got a set for a 258. After looking up the correct PN they are $110 on Summit....however I can get a set of very slightly used MORE Bomb Proof mounts for $125 from a local Jeeper.....

I'm thinking I'll do the poly though as this thing will be primarily a street rig and only see mild trails.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 06:14 PM   #35
UBERK
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Found my problem....





















I'm wondering if there was a clearance issue with the pistons and heads....? I don't see any damage on the heads or indication the valves are ruined. Lifters, pushrods and rockers all look good.

Lost some bearings, found shavings in the bottom of the pan.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 06:17 PM   #36
UBERK
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Crank and cylinder walls actually look good...considering:





I think I'll be able to get by with just a hone and polishing on them......
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Unread 01-12-2014, 07:08 PM   #37
swatson454
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Ouch! I'm guessing it got hot at some point and butted the ring gaps. Never a good deal!



Looking at the discoloration around the wrist pins, I'd lay money on it getting got. That being the case, I'd go for the full monte regarding machine work.


Shawn
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Unread 01-12-2014, 07:33 PM   #38
CSP
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Fullsize Jeeps are a possible source of the widetrack CJ shock towers. They used the same towers.
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Unread 01-14-2014, 01:29 PM   #39
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Looking at the discoloration around the wrist pins, I'd lay money on it getting got. That being the case, I'd go for the full monte regarding machine work.
Just left the machine shop this afternoon.... They come highly recommended by a trusted source and have experience with AMC's.

I hope to get it to them by the end of next week, 2 weeks tops.....for the Full Monty including rebuilding the heads.

I think Im gonna switch up to the Lunati Voodoo cam:

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,600-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 262 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.507 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.527 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.507 int./0.527 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112/108


...either that or the CC XE262...?

Why is picking a cam such a hard choice?

Heads will be rebuild with new springs and roller tip rockers.
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Unread 01-14-2014, 01:35 PM   #40
UBERK
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Im very curious about my block though... Pass side of block clearly has "401" cast into it...drivers side just has "01"....some sort of casting error?





...just a few other casting marks:

This "4" is only on pass side:



but a "4" also appears in the oil galley...











Rods all ahve the is PN, but also have what appears to be a 7-8-9 or 10 towards the bottom?

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Unread 01-14-2014, 01:42 PM   #41
Matt1981CJ7
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I like your cam choice, but I wouldn't buy the "AMC kit". The valve springs in my Lunati kit weren't even close to fitting on my 360.

Perhaps they've fixed that problem....

Matt
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Unread 01-14-2014, 01:47 PM   #42
Matt1981CJ7
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Check this thread regarding casting numbers.

Matt
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Unread 01-14-2014, 01:54 PM   #43
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I like your cam choice, but I wouldn't buy the "AMC kit". The valve springs in my Lunati kit weren't even close to fitting on my 360.
I didnt see a Lunati "kit" per se on Summit...the cam only comes with lifters. Id have to spec out springs seperately. Ill check Lunatis web site.

Otherwise its the CC XE262 "kit"...cam-lifters-springs-valve seals and double roller timing set.....
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Unread 01-14-2014, 01:56 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UBERK View Post

Why is picking a cam such a hard choice?
Because there's about 2 million choices and as many opinions out there

I use Vizard's 128 to come up with the timing events needed to hopefully build the maximum amount of torque the engine is capable of producing at the rpm you want it done. That may not always be the goal so at that point, the options become endless.

I'm sure you can't go wrong with either one.



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Unread 01-14-2014, 03:01 PM   #45
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Using Vizard's approach, I just ran some numbers specific to a 401 used for low-speed stuff (just off idle to probably a 5,200 max rpm) where a good idle was expected.

Based on your cylinder size and the valve area available to feed it, I came up with 50 degrees of overlap and required 106 LSA which, mathematically, leaves you at 262 degrees of duration. That may give you a little bit of a rumble under the hood but the torque would be insane.

If that isn't what you're looking for, you can always just widen the LSA out a little. Going from a 106 out to 110 or 112 will knock a good 45 ft/lbs off the torque and make it idle smooth as a baby's butt but you'll sure be able to feel the reduced power and throttle response.

If you were doing a towing application where mileage was a factor, we'd probably drop the duration down to 256 and use a 110 LSA.

One thing I really dislike about the way Comp does their cams, especially on an AMC with a 1.65 exhaust valve, is using too much exhaust duration. In a low-speed application where mileage may or may not be a factor, that extra exhaust duration works against us. Getting closer to the same area as the intake will make more torque below the torque peak and will help with mileage. It will fall off faster as it revs beyond peak torque but that doesn't seem to matter on these applications.

Anywho, that's just how I might approach it. Sure beats reading cam descriptions until your eyes bleed


Shawn
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