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Unread 12-17-2013, 12:23 PM   #16
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
Those damn air pump bolts are a PITA!! The last two pics are tiny. I believe the last one is the choke heater tube. You won't need that. The other pic is too small for my aging eyes to identify. Can you post larger versions of those? Matt




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Unread 12-17-2013, 12:32 PM   #17
Matt1981CJ7
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Yep, choke heater tubes. You won't need those with your new intake and carb, assuming you're going with an e-choke.

Matt
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Unread 12-18-2013, 02:59 PM   #18
84jeepcj7rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
Everything sounds good to me, except the side pipes, but that's subjective.
I agree with ditching the side pipes. I had my single exhaust run out the side behind the rear wheel and it would give me headaches after 2 hrs on the trail. Had it run out the back and it much better. You would also have to run a very short muffler and probably run it under the frame unless you have a huge body lift.
I run a 360 with
.030 over bore
Performer intake, Performer 600cfm off road carb, Performer headers
Pertronics HEI
Custom Comp Cam, can't remember the specs off hand
325hp and 400ft/lbs at the flywheel.

Good luck with the build.
Oh yeah, 10,000 miles on motor with stock oiling and zero problems
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Unread 12-18-2013, 03:21 PM   #19
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84jeepcj7rock View Post
Good luck with the build.
Oh yeah, 10,000 miles on motor with stock oiling and zero problems
Thanks for the info. I think Ive spent way too much time analyzing all the info on oiling mods. I feel pretty confident that with my level of build I wont need to do anything but add an extra qt....which makes me wonder if I did that when I changed the oil 3 weeks ago if I would be in this position...
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Unread 12-18-2013, 04:25 PM   #20
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UBERK View Post
Thanks for the info. I think Ive spent way too much time analyzing all the info on oiling mods. I feel pretty confident that with my level of build I wont need to do anything but add an extra qt....which makes me wonder if I did that when I changed the oil 3 weeks ago if I would be in this position...
There are a few simple things you can do to improve the oiling without adding silly bypass tubes and the like.

FWIW, here's what I ended up doing.

1. Remove the casting imperfections around the drain holes.
2. Enlarge the main oil galley from the pump.
3. Gasket-match the oil pump ports.
4. Gyptol the inner surfaces to improve flow.

I don't really know if any of these made a lick of difference, but I figured they couldn't hurt.

Matt
oildrain1.jpg   oildrain2.jpg   oilporting7.jpg   oilporting1.jpg   oilporting3.jpg  

glyptal2.jpg   glyptal5.jpg  
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Unread 12-18-2013, 04:42 PM   #21
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
There are a few simple things you can do to improve the oiling without adding silly bypass tubes and the like.

FWIW, here's what I ended up doing.

1. Remove the casting imperfections around the drain holes.
2. Enlarge the main oil galley from the pump.
3. Gasket-match the oil pump ports.
4. Gyptol the inner surfaces to improve flow.

I don't really know if any of these made a lick of difference, but I figured they couldn't hurt.

Matt
Good info with great pics.....

Its also been suggested to buy a 12" long 5/16 drill bit and make sure the oil feed holes are drilled completely thru...apparently they are not always all the way thru.

I think all of the above will be the extent of my "oil mods" and Ill press on....
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Unread 12-18-2013, 06:54 PM   #22
swatson454
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I think numbers 2 and 3 from Matt's list should be considered mandatory. Keep in mind, you want the pressure relief valve to regulate the pressure seen at the bearings, not what was required to get there.

Another thing to think about: if you're going to be doing these mods, it's best to have them done before the cam bearings are installed. Those little buggers will trap an enormous amount of junk that brushes can't get to.


Shawn
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Unread 12-18-2013, 08:17 PM   #23
fuzz401
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factory rods when done right will spin to 6,500 rpm all day long

I have never done the gasket match or the pump port enlarging I do run the oil line under the intake

the painting of the lifter gally keeps oil runin off but make sure it is super clean or it will come off

keep the crank to rod clearence close

when you get your heads done use good valve seals not the factory junk

check your cam gear oil passages out reay close for burs in the oil passages
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 12-31-2013, 02:31 PM   #24
UBERK
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I've been slowly chipping away at this, Holidays have had a lot to do with it.... Don't plan on getting the motor pulled for another week or two, but have been stock piling a few parts and cleaning some up to reuse: Got references on 3 local shops to do the machine work, I'll be stopping by their respective shops at some point next month to chat with them and choose who m going with.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 02:54 PM   #25
Matt1981CJ7
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I was just wondering how you were doing, Phoenix.

Thanks for the update.

Matt
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Unread 12-31-2013, 03:33 PM   #26
Captainak
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I'm glad to see another AMC 401 going in a CJ .....
I'm not a technical guy but I can offer the details of my build in hopes that's it helps or ads to the discussion .....

This is the set up I had built for my 401 with Dyno'd specs...... Most of the external engine components were transferred from my 304 ......The quick fuel technology carburetor was the stinger at the end of my build (an extra $600) as my Edelbrock thunder series would not meet specs on the dyno according to the engine builder.

Hope this helps.....

AMC 401 Performance Pump Gas built by CMEngines of SC, 10:1 Compression & Oiling Modifications
- 427 Max HP @ 5300 RPM's
- 498 Max Torque Ft. Lbs. @ 3900 RPM's
CN: 3198951


Quick Fuel Technology
Street Carburetor 680 CFM VS
Part#: SS-680-VS

Holley 2 110 GPH "BLUE" ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP WITH REGULATOR

Edlebrock Performer Intake (Powder Coated)

Aluminum Valve Covers (Powder Coated)

MSD Blaster 2 Coil Hi-Performance

MSD Pro-Billet Ready to Run Distributor

MSD Ignition Control 6A

Moroso Blue Max Race 8mm Wire Set

Professional Products 91102 AMC Harmonic Dampener

Bulltear AMC Serpentine Aluminum Pulley Conversion Kit

Headman Hedders

Milodon 16271 Performance Aluminum High Volume Water Pump for AMC
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11197532#post1119753 https://plus.google.com/photos/116451153412037001676/albums/5857883655447386049
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Unread 12-31-2013, 05:08 PM   #27
UBERK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captainak
I'm glad to see another AMC 401 going in a CJ ..... Hope this helps..... AMC 401 Performance Pump Gas built by CMEngines of SC, 427 Max HP @ 5300 RPM's - 498 Max Torque Ft. Lbs. @ 3900 RPM's
Very nice. I'm only looking to go about 9:1 comp hoping to get close 400/450.
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Unread 01-06-2014, 04:41 PM   #28
UBERK
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Not much progress to report, need to work out the logistics to borrow a hoist to pull this pig.

Placed an order for all new Energy Suspension poly body mounts (OE size), motor mounts and tranny mounts...bump stops look to have been replaced not too long ago.

Wanting to swap to 82-86' front shock mounts as well.....if I can find any. A local 4X4 makes a nice aftermarket set which I might opt for, then slap on some 5100's.

Also scored a Remy starter, NIB with packing slip, for $25 off Craigslist too....


Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
The shelf version of Comp's XE256 is as small as I would go for your engine. You could even step up to the 262 without any fear of being over-cammed.
I think Im about ready to pull the trigger on the cam. Heres what Im looking at:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k10-215-5

and...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-rpm1410-16

This would basically allow me to completely rebuild my entire valvetrain...Ill make the determination on the valves after an inspection.
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Unread 01-06-2014, 06:13 PM   #29
swatson454
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I'm 100% on board with the Comp Magnum adjustable rockers, I just can't tell you if any modifications are needed. Sure sounds like a good plan though


Shawn
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Unread 01-07-2014, 12:18 AM   #30
fuzz401
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I would spend the money on Harland sharp rockers instead they are the right length for amc heads the others are not always right as they say they are push rods get a checking push rod and get the right length made to keep the rocker to stay in the center to a little off center through valve movement

__________________
1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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