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Unread 12-15-2013, 06:27 PM   #1
UBERK
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Another 401 build and discussion thread....

Since I don't want to derail-highjack someone else's build thread I'm going to start my own.

1) My 401 spun a bearing and is done....

2) This will be my first individual build...

3) I'm new to AMC and their idiosyncrasies...IE oil pressure and drain back issues I've read about

4) Call me stubborn, but I'm not gonna take, what I feel could be, the easy route and drop a SBC into it.

The CJ (see profile for specs) is going to remain primarily an occasional daily driver that I want to be reliable and capable of moderate off road use.

The PO did the 304-401 swap and the 401 appears to be all OE. Based on the block (3198951) and head (3216090) appears to be of the '73-'74 vintage....which goes with the build tag on the valve covers (606Z21), which I'm told translates to June 21, 1973... Z denotes 401.

That being said, my research for similar builds had led me come up with this "preliminary" spec sheet:


Providing the bore just needs a hone, new .std pistons. I'm undecided on brand, thinking cast will do......I want to keep the comp around 9:1 (8.5:1 is stock I believe)

Re-use stock forged rods if possible.

I'm assuming the crank will need to be turned .010, will deck the block as needed, and hope to balance the rotating assembly.

Heads will be rebuilt...port matched

Edelbrock Performer Intake (EDL-3731)

Unsure on carb just yet...Holley TA 670...?

And for the most important, most debated piece...the cam. As of right now I'm leaning towards a Comp Cams XE256H kit from Summit, mainly because it comes with lifters, valve seals, timing and roller kit ect.....

MSD HEI with 6AL

....and of course all new bearings - seals - hoses and gaskets.

I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things, but that's basically it.


http://imgur.com/a/k8agL

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Unread 12-15-2013, 06:57 PM   #2
Matt1981CJ7
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UBERK,

I'm in! Sounds like a fun build! Here's a few "idiosyncrasies" I learned from my build.

1. Much to do is made of AMC's oiling problems. You will read plenty about certain "oiling mods" that are suppose to help. In truth, I think most of that is over-blown, or applies to racing applications. For a low to moderate RPM, high torque, CJ engine the stock oiling design is just fine, IMO. I wouldn't waste my time chasing most of those mods, again.

2. If the block is to be bored, be sure the machinist has the proper AMC torque plate.

3. Expect to be frustrated when sourcing certain parts. Especially OEM emissions stuff, if you have to worry about that.

4. Shawn's your man on the cam. I'm sure he'll be along soon.

5. There's a ton of sage AMC engine builders, here. They walked my dumb arse thru the process, and we had a lot of fun along the way. Try to post lots of good pics if you can.

Looking forward to it.

Matt
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Unread 12-15-2013, 07:11 PM   #3
TKFireman
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I'm looking forward to it as well, the people here walked me through my first engine build, and I'm sure you will find answers to any questions you come up with.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 07:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
1. Much to do is made of AMC's oiling problems. You will read plenty about certain "oiling mods" that are suppose to help. In truth, I think most of that is over-blown, or applies to racing applications. For a low to moderate RPM, high torque, CJ engine the stock oiling design is just fine, IMO. I wouldn't waste my time chasing most of those mods, again.
I definitely don't want to over think any thing here, but at the same time not discount anything. This will definitely not be a "race" engine, however I am the type of person who does believe in preventative medicine, so if there's an opportunity to improve a design flaw I will consider it.
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
2. If the block is to be bored, be sure the machinist has the proper AMC torque plate.
Yes, i will definitely make sure the machine shop has AMC experience
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
3. Expect to be frustrated when sourcing certain parts. Especially OEM emissions stuff, if you have to worry about that.
I am emissions exempt so I am considering scrapping the smog pump, related parts, OE exhaust manifolds and running headers, true dual with side exits just in front of the rear tires.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
4. Shawn's your man on the cam. I'm sure he'll be along soon.
I'm assuming the discussion on the cam will be lengthy.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
5. There's a ton of sage AMC engine builders, here. They walked my dumb arse thru the process, and we had a lot of fun along the way. Try to post lots of good pics if you can. Looking forward to it.
Sounds good...I'm expecting this to be a 3-6 month process. I've already sourced my MSD HEI dizzy, coil, 6AL and Eddy Performer intake locally from another Jeeper who is parting out his 304, with only about 3K mi on a fresh rebuild, out in favor of a Chevy 5.3. I don't even have the motor pulled, but saw an opportunity to save a few $$$. We believe his issue was cam related and he got tired of fighting it..
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Unread 12-15-2013, 07:58 PM   #5
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Everything sounds good to me, except the side pipes, but that's subjective.
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Unread 12-16-2013, 03:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Everything sounds good to me, except the side pipes, but that's subjective.
At this point nothing is set in stone, I just love that look.

As noted above Ive already got a new intake, MSD HEI ignition system, planing on a new carb (again undecided which one just yet) and will probably switch to headers as well.

Is there any market for my old intake, carb (which I believe is a MC 4300...??) exhaust manifolds w/ emissions equip and dizzy?

If so Ill clean them up and post them in the For Sale.... Just wondering if its worth my time to clean them up, take the pics and make the post?
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Unread 12-16-2013, 04:22 PM   #7
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I doubt you'll get much action on the old cast-iron intake. That's a scrap-value item, IMO. I also have one occupying space on my shelves.

The exhaust manifolds, on the other hand, should bring a pretty penny. The AMC V8 manifolds actually flow quite well, and they seal up better than most headers. I paid $90 for the rusted set that I put on my 360. They cleaned up nicely, and still look just as good after 4K miles. I'm a real fan of the VHT manifold paint.

Matt
exhaustmanifold1.jpg   exhaustmanifolds3.jpg   exhaustmanifolds6.jpg  
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Unread 12-16-2013, 04:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
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The exhaust manifolds, on the the other hand, should bring a pretty penny. The AMC V8 manifolds actually flow quite well, and they seal up better than most headers. I paid $90 for the rusted set that I put on my 360. They cleaned up nicely, and still look just as good after 4K miles. I'm a real fan of the VHT manifold paint.
Matt
Those look good.. Perhaps Ill sit just sit on them till I cross that bridge.
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Unread 12-17-2013, 07:04 AM   #9
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Another reason I chose to use the stock exhaust manifolds was for the "heat stove" feature on the factory air cleaner. It draws heated air from around the manifold to prevent carb freeze-ups, and shortens warm-up times.

In my neck of the woods, the closed factory air-cleaner is a superior system to any aftermarket open setup, IMO.

Matt
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Unread 12-17-2013, 07:57 AM   #10
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The stock manifolds flow really well too. Unless you're pushing major horsepower there's no need for headers from a performance perspective.
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Unread 12-17-2013, 08:12 AM   #11
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4. Shawn's your man on the cam. I'm sure he'll be along soon.
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Unread 12-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #12
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Crawl out of your hole, Shawn, and give the man some cam advise.

Matt
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Unread 12-17-2013, 08:37 AM   #13
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Crawl out of your hole, Shawn, and give the man some cam advise.

Matt
I mentioned how I'd approach it on the other thread. Been sick and don't feel like typing

OP,

The Comp 256 in a 401 should behave exactly the way Matt's Lunati 250 does in his 360 so maybe you can get him to post his videos. Might have to twist his arm though

The shelf version of Comp's XE256 is as small as I would go for your engine. You could even step up to the 262 without any fear of being over-cammed.

Those factory exhaust manifolds are some of the best I've seen and won't present any problems at this level of build.

If you don't care how much power it makes above, say, 5,000 rpm, you could have the 256 ground on a 106 LSA with the smaller exhaust lobe from their lobe cam master catalog. Done that way, you could expect an easy 415+ or so ft/lbs out of it.


Shawn
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Unread 12-17-2013, 10:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454
The shelf version of Comp's XE256 is as small as I would go for your engine. You could even step up to the 262 without any fear of being over-cammed.
Pretty much where I'm at. I'll probably opt for the XE262 kit from Summit with springs, lifters, seals and timing roller chain.

Went to clean up the OE exhaust manifolds today and....



...easy fix...hopefully, but I had run out of patience by then.

Also, can someone ID this sensor, I can't locate it on Rockauto....



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Unread 12-17-2013, 11:11 AM   #15
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Those damn air pump bolts are a PITA!!

The last two pics are tiny. I believe the last one is the choke heater tube. You won't need that. The other pic is too small for my aging eyes to identify.

Can you post larger versions of those?

Matt
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