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USA Standard Chromoly Front Axle Shaft Kits with Dana 30 4Eliminate Hood Flutter!!!Offset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!

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Unread 06-29-2013, 03:01 PM   #16
jeepwhore
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1984 CJ7 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTexas View Post
Yah, the tubes are in place, haven't budged. It's the center housing, pumpkin, that moved. Currently, measuring across the output seal on the pinion, it is angled up 41 degrees. Ideal is 12 degrees but I can compensate with wedges for anything in the 4-20 degree range.

I don't understand how bleeding the brakes would help and the pinion is angled up rather than down. If it were dowbn I would have lots of options to push up but pulling down is leaving me clueless.
Bleeding the brakes won't help. What Bill was saying is that if you just weld the center section to the tubes as it sits and then correct the pinion angle with shims or by welding new perches, it will rotate your brake backing plate and complete brake assembly......which in turn may make the brakes more difficult to bleed later.....not to mention it will move the diff breather from the top of the tube to the side.

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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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Unread 06-29-2013, 04:18 PM   #17
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore

Bleeding the brakes won't help. What Bill was saying is that if you just weld the center section to the tubes as it sits and then correct the pinion angle with shims or by welding new perches, it will rotate your brake backing plate and complete brake assembly......which in turn may make the brakes more difficult to bleed later.....not to mention it will move the diff breather from the top of the tube to the side.
This^^^ thanks JW.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
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Unread 06-29-2013, 10:38 PM   #18
Spieg8
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1984 CJ8 
 
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I think I would write this off as a catastrophic failure and scrap the thing. It would almost certainly be cheaper to get another axle from the bone yard. Strip the old axle for spare parts (you'll probably need them eventually), and send the rest to the crusher...
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Unread 07-01-2013, 05:17 PM   #19
OldTexas
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Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
Bleeding the brakes won't help. What Bill was saying is that if you just weld the center section to the tubes as it sits and then correct the pinion angle with shims or by welding new perches, it will rotate your brake backing plate and complete brake assembly......which in turn may make the brakes more difficult to bleed later.....not to mention it will move the diff breather from the top of the tube to the side.
Ah, now I understand. Think I have a solution in the works.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 05:21 PM   #20
OldTexas
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Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
I think I would write this off as a catastrophic failure and scrap the thing. It would almost certainly be cheaper to get another axle from the bone yard. Strip the old axle for spare parts (you'll probably need them eventually), and send the rest to the crusher...
I've got an AMC20 wide track housing a fellow will sell me for $30 but I also have a guy with a shop who says for $80 he can rotate the pinion back on the tubes and weld the tubes in place. If he can...

If not, I have the deal on the housing as a fallback.
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Last edited by OldTexas; 07-01-2013 at 05:21 PM.. Reason: Double entry
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