AMC20 Issue - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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AMC20 Issue


Last weekend both axle tubes spun on the rear end leaving the pinion pointing up at about a 45 degree angle. In theory, I should be able to pull it back down and tack weld the tubes solving the problem. Question is, any idea how to get enough leverage on the pinion to turn it back down into place? I've bent a 1.5" pipe levering under the rear end housing with a chain and floor jack pulling down on the front and it hasn't budged. Someday I do wnat to upgrade but I haven't the financial resources to do that yet and a 7014 rod is a lot cheaper than replacing the whole rear end...even if I could find one for anywhere near a reasonable price in Houston.
Ideas please...


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post #2 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 06:41 PM
S76
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WOW! I don't think I would do that. At the least I would gut the rear to do an alignment check when you get it in place.

There are tons of those AMC 20's out there and most can be had cheap. That's the way I would go.

If you always do what you've always done. You will always get what you've always got.
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post #3 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 06:43 PM
jeepwhore
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Rev to 3000 rpm, grab reverse and dump the clutch?

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post #4 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 07:06 PM
skizriz
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Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
Rev to 3000 rpm, grab reverse and dump the clutch?
That was my thought, but a little more carefully.

Low range. Hubs unlocked. Reverse. Chain the front bumper to another truck to keep the Jeep from moving. Gently start releasing the clutch as somebody watches the pumpkin.
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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Originally Posted by S76 View Post
WOW! I don't think I would do that. At the least I would gut the rear to do an alignment check when you get it in place.

There are tons of those AMC 20's out there and most can be had cheap. That's the way I would go.
So I am told, but I can't find any in Houston. Setting the angle isn't really a problem. I have a gauge and wedges to do that if I can get it back within 8 degrees of where I want it. Plus I have a rear CV shaft.

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post #6 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
Rev to 3000 rpm, grab reverse and dump the clutch?
Actually I could do that if the angle was close enough but right now, without a rear driveshaft connected, I'm afraid it won't help.

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post #7 of 20 Old 06-27-2013, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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I really do appreciate the suggestions though. If anyone has any other ideas, please, let me know.

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post #8 of 20 Old 06-28-2013, 12:10 AM
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If you have a cV shaft you will be wanting it to point at the output of the transfer box anyway, so you will not have to move it too far.

If you had an old driveshaft around (and I would not do this with your CV shaft) you could bolt it on, jam the U joint with a metal road and then lever down on the driveshaft.

It will defo need some weld running round it to keep it in position.

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post #9 of 20 Old 06-28-2013, 03:57 AM
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I think I would try using a very large Pipe Wrench on the axle tube itself.

Chock the wheel on one side in both the front and rear of the wheel.

Loosen the spring plates U-bolts on one side at a time, rotate axle to correct position with the Pipe Wrench, tighten U-bolts and repeat same for other side.

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post #10 of 20 Old 06-28-2013, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
If you have a cV shaft you will be wanting it to point at the output of the transfer box anyway, so you will not have to move it too far.

If you had an old driveshaft around (and I would not do this with your CV shaft) you could bolt it on, jam the U joint with a metal road and then lever down on the driveshaft.

It will defo need some weld running round it to keep it in position.
Excellent idea, that is now Plan D and I will do exactly that tomorrow afternoon. Today was Plan C. I took a 5 ft 2" pipe, chained it to the front of the pinion, leveraged under the pinion and lifted the p[ipe with a floor jack until the wheels were a few inches off the ground, them I applied heat from a little Benzomatic torch I bought today. Didn't budge.

That front leverage with the old shaft is a fantastic idea. Optimism reigns once again!

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post #11 of 20 Old 06-28-2013, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
I think I would try using a very large Pipe Wrench on the axle tube itself.

Chock the wheel on one side in both the front and rear of the wheel.

Loosen the spring plates U-bolts on one side at a time, rotate axle to correct position with the Pipe Wrench, tighten U-bolts and repeat same for other side.
Kieth that also is a great idea. That is now officially Plan E if Plan D fails.

Should be Sunday when I try that since I have all day off. Plan D will be quicker so I can do that tomorrow night after work.

Guys thak you for the ideas and I really mean it. I had run flat out of options.

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post #12 of 20 Old 06-28-2013, 08:57 PM
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Why don't you just cut and reweld the axle spring pads when you weld the tubes?
LG
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-28-2013, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits
Why don't you just cut and reweld the axle spring pads when you weld the tubes?
LG
My first thought on this was bleeding the brakes. But I guess when the pinion is rotated down , I don't know I have to think about it some more.
I guessing the axle tubes didnt rotate in the housing, the housing rotated on the tubes.

B

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post #14 of 20 Old 06-29-2013, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
OldTexas
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Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Why don't you just cut and reweld the axle spring pads when you weld the tubes?
LG
Yep, that might be where I'm headed. Thought I would do it the easy way and we all know how that usually turns out...

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post #15 of 20 Old 06-29-2013, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
My first thought on this was bleeding the brakes. But I guess when the pinion is rotated down , I don't know I have to think about it some more.
I guessing the axle tubes didnt rotate in the housing, the housing rotated on the tubes.

B
Yah, the tubes are in place, haven't budged. It's the center housing, pumpkin, that moved. Currently, measuring across the output seal on the pinion, it is angled up 41 degrees. Ideal is 12 degrees but I can compensate with wedges for anything in the 4-20 degree range.

I don't understand how bleeding the brakes would help and the pinion is angled up rather than down. If it were dowbn I would have lots of options to push up but pulling down is leaving me clueless.

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