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Unread 04-29-2014, 02:25 PM   #1
neal90
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amc20 diff gasket

Would it be ok to use the napa right stuff gasket maker for the diff cover gasket, or do I need to get the actual gasket.

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Unread 04-29-2014, 02:30 PM   #2
Truck633
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I have used everything from the cork gasket, to permatex.... Right stuff will be fine. I change mine quite a bit, if I recall the last time I used the right stuff, it was a little more difficult to remove.
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Unread 04-29-2014, 02:35 PM   #3
neal90
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Yea I have used it on other stuff gust never a diff thanks
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Unread 04-29-2014, 02:41 PM   #4
Truck633
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I usually throw the cheap cork gasket in there.. I helped a friend install a lunchbox locker in his 20, we got it all together (had to find a whole new carrier, the stock limited slip wouldn't accept it, but that's another story) after we got it all back together, we noticed the gasket they had given him was for a 30, not the perfectly round one for his 20. I had never done it without a gasket before, so we loaded it up with plain black RTV and said "just for now, until we can go get a gasket"..That was over three years ago...hasn't leaked a drop!

ninja edit..

I WILL get to the parts store for that gasket someday!!
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Unread 04-29-2014, 02:42 PM   #5
kirbot
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I haven't found anything yet that "the right stuff" WON'T work on.

I used to seal my entire dana 300 a while back, and it hasn't leaked since.
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Unread 04-29-2014, 03:50 PM   #6
skizriz
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I only use gasket maker, no cork gasket. The cork gaskets leaked on me too much. Mine is peeled back all across the bottom from hitting rocks now, using only gasket maker, with no leaks (either that or it's empty(.
I put on a thick bead, and start all of the bolts. I tighten until it just start to squish the gasket maker. I then wait a couple of hours or so allowing it to set up some, before tightening the bolts completely.

A clean surface is very important. Wire wheel it to bare metal and clean it with brake parts cleaner. No oil, dirt or rust.
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Unread 04-29-2014, 04:21 PM   #7
nosheep
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I have used rtv in a few vehicles in the past that all changed wit a lubelocker gasket. Expensive up front but its nice doing fluid changes now. Just drain, clean off cover and diff with paper towel, reinstall , fill then drive no wait no leak. I just got a deep tranny pan and I just bought a lube locker for my tf999 $35 and I am sure will be well worth it.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 07:30 PM   #8
hunter1
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I just did this job today, among others. Just got this CJ5 with no maint records so I'm changing all fluids. This diff had a leak so I used a Felpro cork gasket w a thin coat of rtv both sides. So far so good.

Not sure if the CJ7's have limited room between the top torx bolts and the gas tank like my 5 does. I was barely able to cobble a short torx bit into a small 1/4 inch rachet wrench and luckily break all the bolts loose. It was a close call on one bolt, it finally gave, otherwise idda had to drop the tank to get working room.

Are you guys using a torx/star drive socket on a rachet to get at the top bolts? I'll be getting a set soon.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 07:41 PM   #9
skizriz
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I threw all my Torx bolts in the garbage where they belong, and replaced them with regular 5/16" hex head bolts.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 09:06 PM   #10
jeep_boy02
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I would replace them with hex heads. I still have mine but they haven't given me fits and I have it sprung over so no clearance issues. But just a future heads up... rather than dropping the tank why not use a hi lift on the bumper to raise the jeep and let suspension unload? Or a floor jack even get it up high and put jack stands under frame, near spring hangers (which you should either way) so that the axle droops down and away from tank.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 09:10 PM   #11
jeep_boy02
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Oh also I forgot to mention that I had fixed a similar problem two weeks ago. Had the felpro iirc cork gasket and rtv. I ditched the cork and used about an 1/4" bead of blue gasket maker and had no problem with it leaking again.
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Unread 06-21-2014, 09:28 PM   #12
sketchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter1 View Post

Not sure if the CJ7's have limited room between the top torx bolts and the gas tank like my 5 does. I was barely able to cobble a short torx bit into a small 1/4 inch rachet wrench and luckily break all the bolts loose. It was a close call on one bolt, it finally gave, otherwise idda had to drop the tank to get working room.

Are you guys using a torx/star drive socket on a rachet to get at the top bolts? I'll be getting a set soon.
With the 20 gal tank my ratchet is up against the skid before the screw is out. I'm replacing that tank with a 15 gal now (for clearance and lower cost of replacement parts). I really should change those out for hex heads while the tank is out, but two of the heads are stripped and it isn't leaking so I may out it off again...

It's a T40 torx, BTW. I bought the single socket for about $5 & a set of 6 goes for around $20. So as long as I don't need a 4th size I'll be ahead
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Unread 06-24-2014, 07:17 PM   #13
carnuck
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Napa has an RTV for synthetic gear lube that I use now. Not hating on the right stuff, but it's a PAIN to remove and clean for a re-seal!
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Unread 06-25-2014, 04:03 AM   #14
Mike Romain
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I'm replacing that tank with a 15 gal now (for clearance and lower cost of replacement parts).
Umm, I think you are making a mistake for several reasons.

First, the 20 gallon tank is poly, the 15 is steel. Modern fuel has ethanol in it that carries water which will rot out your new steel tank. (CJ owners manual says no ethanol allowed for this reason, "if you must use some, only use enough to get to real gas"). Napa even sells plastic lined gas lines now for this reason.

Second, the poly tank has built in roll over check valves. You would need to find a set that fits up under the fender for the 15 gallon tank. I believe Delorean ones will fit. ( but with delorean parts, you got watch that 88 mph thing).

You will need a new skid plate and gas sender also.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 06:30 AM   #15
hotrod351
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i use to use the ultra blue, but started using the ultra grey, coat both surfaces, with no gasket, and let sit for about 10 minutes before putting together.
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