AMC V-8 Oil Pump/Front Cover Rebuild Thread - Page 2 -
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Unread 12-14-2011, 02:57 PM   #16
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1973 CJ5 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,147
First, fill the oil pump housing with assembly lube before you do final assembly so the pump doesn't have to start 'Dry',
Then you spin the pump the same direction as the distributor, CLOCKWISE.

And no, I didn't finish the article, got side tracked and lost interest in taking all those damn pictures, Trying to edit them for size/content, ect. and get them posted...

Doing the work isn't the hard part, dealing with all this 'Computer Crap' is the hard work for me.

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Unread 12-14-2011, 05:08 PM   #17
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1974 CJ5 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: new braunfels, tx
Posts: 1,361
two things.
(1) I had issues w/ bottom of pump hitting the top of the harmonic balancer ( aftermarket billet balancer) on a cast iron NAPA pump. Had to take the whole mess back off and grind off excess iron on the pump.
Later I put a H/D GNB on it ( aluminum ) and it was cast to clear but I ground it some more anyway and it cleared. That's just a FWIW but it's a real p***er to redo it.
(2) ya'll are probably tired of me bragging on the "timing cover oiling mod" for V-8's but if you have the cover off it only takes 15 minutes to drill and tap to do it, even if you don't do it now, screw a plug in the hole. Then if you ever change your mind it's as simple as plumbing an oil pressure guage.
If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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Unread 12-14-2011, 05:16 PM   #18
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1984 CJ8 
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Question, do you have a pic/write up for the mod you just mentioned.

Project CJ8 Build Gallery <----Click

CJ8 Build Thread<---- Click
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Unread 12-14-2011, 05:55 PM   #19
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1974 CJ5 
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lemme see if I can put something together for here. If nothing else, pm me your email addy, I've sent it out to others before, but I'll see if I can do one for here.
If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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Unread 12-14-2011, 08:19 PM   #20
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1977 CJ7 
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Location: Hutto, TX
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Mopar I would definitely be interested in the oiling mod as well. I have tried Googling it in the past and it seems everyone has a different opinion on what the oiling mod really is. I'd be interested to see what yours looks like. I am currently building up a replacement 360 since my last one seized on me and I want to try to make sure I have all available insurances in place. Nothing worse than having a sad, broken Jeep in the garage.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 07:54 PM   #21
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1979 CJ7 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Columbus
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Jeep Hammer,

How many pieces are in the filter head? I counted eight is that correct?

1. body
2. filter adapter
3. filter adapter spacer
4. small plastic piece
5. short spring
6. bolt
7. washer
8. long spring
Body lifts are like push-up bras, they look nice but are just an illusion.
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Unread 06-27-2012, 10:38 AM   #22
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1986 CJ7 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 164
Hello Mr. JeepHammer,

I have enjoyed reading your threads, and have implemented your ignition system upgrade on my V8 (304) engine. It is really a vast improvement over the stock set up and is one of the first things anyone should do for their jeep. (stock motorcraft distributer, large MSD cap/rotor/adapter, MSD wires, & MSD ignition module) Thanks!

I came across your timing cover rebuild thread while researching a possible solution to the oil leak on my timing cover. I have a new timing cover from Bull Tear (purchased 3 years ago and not used until recently) that leaks oil past the 'Idler' impeller (The 'Driven' impeller) shaft. Mr. Bull Tear suggested I try cleaning with brake cleaner and use wicking locktite. I tried it and it still leaks. The most upsetting part is my old, ugly cover didn’t leak and if I reworked it per your thread, I wouldn’t be in this position. I spent the money in an attempt to avoid this kind of problem. ARG!

Anyway, I noticed that at a point in your timing cover rebuild, you mentioned that:
The oil pump 'Idler' impeller (The 'Driven' impeller) pin is still in place, I will take that out later and seal up the hole it fits in.
This sounds like it might help me with my oil leak.

I have a couple of questions:
1. Do you think this might stop the oil from leaking past the idler impeller pin?
2. Can this be done while the timing cover is still on the engine? It is a new (remanufactured) engine that is otherwise completely leak free.
3. Is the procedure something that you can give me a quick tutorial on? Don’t think I need an exact step by step, just something like “push the pin out from the gear side, apply brand XXX sealant, push back in from the pump side, set to depth it was originally in measured from pump surface, etc. Short and sweet!

My jeep is really, really clean and this oil leak is making a mess of my jeep’s undercarriage as well as my driveway.

I know your time must be in great demand, but if you can find the time, I would really appreciate any help or suggestions.
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Unread 01-12-2013, 07:39 PM   #23
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if i have excessice gear end clearance what should i do about it im looking at .009 my hanes manual says get a thinner gasket wont this cause the gears to become even closer to the floor plate. mine looks exactly like the one in the picture not bad so even if i lap it wont i need to do something or the gears will just do their thing again. i need to know because this is the reason i tore this engine apart and did an entire overhaul (i blew this gasket out) and i figured a rebuild was over due anyways so everything came apart and now everything is rotated balanced and brand new its a wholly rebuilt engine and i spent a good bit on it and dont want to ruin it but i am getting tempted to just pack it with vaseline and button it up. what should i do to make sure the gears wont just keep eating on this plate?
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Unread 07-09-2013, 02:17 PM   #24
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thought I would add to this thread. I am in the middle of rebuilding my oil pump and I don't have a buddy to help remove the plunger. so..... grab a 7/16 bolt and run some elec tape on it. wrap it oversized a few wraps and then take the tape down until it fits in the plunger. you can use your new plunger in the rebuild kit as a guide. by un wrapping the tape a time or two will leave some sticky on it. then push the bolt with the tape on it into the old plunger and pull it out of the pump. presto!
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