AMC V-8 Oil Pump/Front Cover Rebuild Thread - Page 2 -

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post #16 of 27 Old 12-14-2011, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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1973 CJ5 
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First, fill the oil pump housing with assembly lube before you do final assembly so the pump doesn't have to start 'Dry',
Then you spin the pump the same direction as the distributor, CLOCKWISE.

And no, I didn't finish the article, got side tracked and lost interest in taking all those damn pictures, Trying to edit them for size/content, ect. and get them posted...

Doing the work isn't the hard part, dealing with all this 'Computer Crap' is the hard work for me.

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post #17 of 27 Old 12-14-2011, 05:08 PM
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two things.
(1) I had issues w/ bottom of pump hitting the top of the harmonic balancer ( aftermarket billet balancer) on a cast iron NAPA pump. Had to take the whole mess back off and grind off excess iron on the pump.
Later I put a H/D GNB on it ( aluminum ) and it was cast to clear but I ground it some more anyway and it cleared. That's just a FWIW but it's a real p***er to redo it.
(2) ya'll are probably tired of me bragging on the "timing cover oiling mod" for V-8's but if you have the cover off it only takes 15 minutes to drill and tap to do it, even if you don't do it now, screw a plug in the hole. Then if you ever change your mind it's as simple as plumbing an oil pressure guage.

If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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post #18 of 27 Old 12-14-2011, 05:16 PM
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Question, do you have a pic/write up for the mod you just mentioned.

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post #19 of 27 Old 12-14-2011, 05:55 PM
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lemme see if I can put something together for here. If nothing else, pm me your email addy, I've sent it out to others before, but I'll see if I can do one for here.

If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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post #20 of 27 Old 12-14-2011, 08:19 PM
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Mopar I would definitely be interested in the oiling mod as well. I have tried Googling it in the past and it seems everyone has a different opinion on what the oiling mod really is. I'd be interested to see what yours looks like. I am currently building up a replacement 360 since my last one seized on me and I want to try to make sure I have all available insurances in place. Nothing worse than having a sad, broken Jeep in the garage.
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post #21 of 27 Old 04-01-2012, 07:54 PM
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Jeep Hammer,

How many pieces are in the filter head? I counted eight is that correct?

1. body
2. filter adapter
3. filter adapter spacer
4. small plastic piece
5. short spring
6. bolt
7. washer
8. long spring

Body lifts are like push-up bras, they look nice but are just an illusion.
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post #22 of 27 Old 06-27-2012, 10:38 AM
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Hello Mr. JeepHammer,

I have enjoyed reading your threads, and have implemented your ignition system upgrade on my V8 (304) engine. It is really a vast improvement over the stock set up and is one of the first things anyone should do for their jeep. (stock motorcraft distributer, large MSD cap/rotor/adapter, MSD wires, & MSD ignition module) Thanks!

I came across your timing cover rebuild thread while researching a possible solution to the oil leak on my timing cover. I have a new timing cover from Bull Tear (purchased 3 years ago and not used until recently) that leaks oil past the 'Idler' impeller (The 'Driven' impeller) shaft. Mr. Bull Tear suggested I try cleaning with brake cleaner and use wicking locktite. I tried it and it still leaks. The most upsetting part is my old, ugly cover didn’t leak and if I reworked it per your thread, I wouldn’t be in this position. I spent the money in an attempt to avoid this kind of problem. ARG!

Anyway, I noticed that at a point in your timing cover rebuild, you mentioned that:
The oil pump 'Idler' impeller (The 'Driven' impeller) pin is still in place, I will take that out later and seal up the hole it fits in.
This sounds like it might help me with my oil leak.

I have a couple of questions:
1. Do you think this might stop the oil from leaking past the idler impeller pin?
2. Can this be done while the timing cover is still on the engine? It is a new (remanufactured) engine that is otherwise completely leak free.
3. Is the procedure something that you can give me a quick tutorial on? Don’t think I need an exact step by step, just something like “push the pin out from the gear side, apply brand XXX sealant, push back in from the pump side, set to depth it was originally in measured from pump surface, etc. Short and sweet!

My jeep is really, really clean and this oil leak is making a mess of my jeep’s undercarriage as well as my driveway.

I know your time must be in great demand, but if you can find the time, I would really appreciate any help or suggestions.
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post #23 of 27 Old 01-12-2013, 07:39 PM
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if i have excessice gear end clearance what should i do about it im looking at .009 my hanes manual says get a thinner gasket wont this cause the gears to become even closer to the floor plate. mine looks exactly like the one in the picture not bad so even if i lap it wont i need to do something or the gears will just do their thing again. i need to know because this is the reason i tore this engine apart and did an entire overhaul (i blew this gasket out) and i figured a rebuild was over due anyways so everything came apart and now everything is rotated balanced and brand new its a wholly rebuilt engine and i spent a good bit on it and dont want to ruin it but i am getting tempted to just pack it with vaseline and button it up. what should i do to make sure the gears wont just keep eating on this plate?
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post #24 of 27 Old 07-09-2013, 02:17 PM
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thought I would add to this thread. I am in the middle of rebuilding my oil pump and I don't have a buddy to help remove the plunger. so..... grab a 7/16 bolt and run some elec tape on it. wrap it oversized a few wraps and then take the tape down until it fits in the plunger. you can use your new plunger in the rebuild kit as a guide. by un wrapping the tape a time or two will leave some sticky on it. then push the bolt with the tape on it into the old plunger and pull it out of the pump. presto!
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post #25 of 27 Old 01-21-2015, 10:43 AM
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if I do all of this and have no oil coming up to the rocker arms what do I need to check??
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post #26 of 27 Old 01-21-2015, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gatekeeper5753 View Post
if I do all of this and have no oil coming up to the rocker arms what do I need to check??
If you don't have oil at rockers, you have one of two problems,
The first would be bad/plugged up lifters.
Very little oil will get pushed to rockers from the oil pump,
Everything would have to be aligned just right for any oil to make the lifters from pump pressure.

Most of the time,
Oil is pumped to the lifters, When the lifter is compressed by the camshaft lobe, oil is pushed up the pushrods to the rockers.

Now, with really worn rockers, the socket for the pushrods WILL NOT allow the oil to pass the rocker.
Flip a dry rocker or two, see if the 'Wear Ring' in the pushrod socket intersects the oiling hole in the rocker.
If the wear ring has intersected the hole, time for new rockers and pushrods.

The ball on the pushrod is plugging the hole during the compression cycle.

If the wear ring is surrounding the oil hole in the rocker,
The pushrod *Should* deliver oil to the rocker.


Pushrods/lifters will plug up if oil isn't changed regularly.
There are some VERY tight tolerances in rockers, and they plug easily.


The next thing to check is for leakage (Wear) in older engines,
And in fresh engines make sure the oil gallery plugs used in the front end of the block weren't too long and are plugging the galleries.
Most people reuse plugs, but once in a while plugs are replaced and are too long.

Front camshaft bearings wear out REALLY QUICKLY,
Tugging from the oil pump, timing set, fuel pump drive all hanging off the in-supported camshaft snout wear the crap out of the front bearing,
And that front bearing will dump a load of oil volume, dropping pressure to every bearing in the engine, along with starving the lifters/rockers.

Since there aren't details posted, I'm just throwing out common causes...
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post #27 of 27 Old 02-13-2015, 06:29 PM
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The bolt that holds in the plunger, is that the same type of bolt that is used as the drain plug on the oil pan?
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